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EA81T performance page.


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Dude, don't be a hypocrite! There is alot of mention of EA81, EA81T, and EA82T in this thread, i was simply asking a question to members that obviously know alot about this subject. I wasnt trying to change the topic to ceramic coatings like you.

That's because all of the information in the thread was relevant to EA81Ts. A blow through SPFI setup is NOT relevant to an EA81T. Your logic does not follow.

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One more question that comes to mind is weather or not you need to use the inner valve spring when using the much heavier duty valve springs from Ram? I have the springs allready and wanted to know this small detail before I starting into the heads on the ea81t.

 

Yes, you certainly do.

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When I purchased my set of valve springs from Ram, he specifically told me the inner spring is no longer needed for the force rating he designed them at. It is also highly advised to purchase some thin spring shims to keep the springs from digging into the aluminum head. If you notice they are also reverse-wound. I dont know exactly why he did that, but I think he mentioned it has to do with the valves rotating better as they are opened and closed.

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When I purchased my set of valve springs from Ram, he specifically told me the inner spring is no longer needed for the force rating he designed them at. It is also highly advised to purchase some thin spring shims to keep the springs from digging into the aluminum head. If you notice they are also reverse-wound. I dont know exactly why he did that, but I think he mentioned it has to do with the valves rotating better as they are opened and closed.

 

I guess if they are very stiff, thus having a natural frequency higher than encountered at maximum engine speed, a single spring should be ok....

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I would love to give that a try sometime.....For now I bought header wrap for the header/turbo manifold and dp. I will see little gains I am sure but the under hood temps may be a bit lower. In the future I will definately give that a try.I will be doing that on my ej22t build. We shall see. I definately want to try that for sure.

 

I used to own an '03 VW GTI 1.8t and I bought a product that tickled me to death. It was a thicker, thermally insulated intake gasket that decreased heat transfer from the head to the intake manifold. I noticed a several degrees drop in operating temperature after long idles and a slight increase in power in around town driving. With these opposed 4's, there's quite a bit less contact between the intake manifold and the heads but it may be a worthwhile upgrade. The product for VW's was called PowerGasket. It was pretty neat. I could drive the car all day long and put my hand right on the intake manifold and it stayed nice and cool.

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With these opposed 4's, there's quite a bit less contact between the intake manifold and the heads but it may be a worthwhile upgrade.

I like the idea on a high HP ej turbo engine but, unfortunatly for us, there is a coolant passage running through the intake manifold on this generation engine. There may be gains, but for this application the parts would have to be custom made. Unless the DIY approach was taken!

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I like the idea on a high HP ej turbo engine but, unfortunatly for us, there is a coolant passage running through the intake manifold on this generation engine. There may be gains, but for this application the parts would have to be custom made. Unless the DIY approach was taken!

 

I'm curious if a reputable gasket manufacturer has the material available in sheets for DIY and custom applications. I'm not sure what, if any, effect coolant would have on the interior gasket material it would pass thru on its way from the manifold to the head. Besides, I prefer the DIY approach!

 

:Flame:

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I'm curious if a reputable gasket manufacturer has the material available in sheets for DIY and custom applications. I'm not sure what, if any, effect coolant would have on the interior gasket material it would pass thru on its way from the manifold to the head. Besides, I prefer the DIY approach!

 

i believe he means that there is no point in insulating the manifold from the engine block if there is coolant running through it anyway, thus keeping them at the same temperature as each other, regardless of any insulation or lack thereof between the mating surfaces.

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What kind of boost pressures are people running on their cars?

 

l run a water cooled 82 turbo on mine and it boosts to 8-9lbs consistently.

Other mods l found worthwhile was fitting a large volume waic, custom up pipe and headers and flicking the clutch fan for 2 thermos. l also run a non standard ecu so have more tuning options and high output electrics.

These mods can be performed by most people cheaply using second hand parts and are, 'external mods'' so can be done by almost anybody that can hold a spanner. :Flame:

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Recently picked up a spare EA81T long block that will slowly get rebuilt and put in one of my cars. Mild rebuild on this one, light port work, maybe some experimenting on the bottom end. I think I will copy some of the procedures outlined for the factory EA82 rally cars, see what kind of a difference they make. Basically a budget build. The engine this replaces will be a balls out version with 4 port heads and cryo treatment and some coatings on the internals. Not trying to build an engine for all out power, just to get power to where Subaru should have set it in 1984.

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