dude_4_sale Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 k so i pulled off my oil pump and changed the seals cuz they were leaking. the pump was in good condition. now... i put it all bak together and the lifters tick. normally it goes away after a oil change. it has been 4 days and no change. they tick like MAD..... when i turn a corner left or right the ticking goes away. so is it air in the lifters or wat should i check/change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 You may have pinched the seal or didn't get it torqued just right. I would try sealing it with some anaerobic sealant..... You DIDN'T use any other sealants besides the paper gasket and o-rings right?!?! GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 9, 2007 Author Share Posted November 9, 2007 You may have pinched the seal or didn't get it torqued just right. I would try sealing it with some anaerobic sealant..... You DIDN'T use any other sealants besides the paper gasket and o-rings right?!?! GD as for pinching i dont think i did. i have takin the pump off twice to make sure. as for the sealant, i did use a tiny dot of rtv blue on the tip of the tear drop shape where it flattens out. nothing near the mickey ears or anything else. it was just a tiny drop to hold it in place. could that really have made that big of a deal? my first thought was that i clogged the lines some how but i dont see how? with in the next few month i will b doin the ej 2 ea swap. i would like to get rid of the ticking soon. but if i cant figure it out and fix it and the motor will last then w/e. let me know wat u come up with thanx GD u have helped me alot!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 idk if it would be that big of a deal to use rtv but i was told to use a little bit of axle greas and it will just mix with the oil after you run it but idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted November 9, 2007 Share Posted November 9, 2007 i used a grey oil resistant silicone sealant on the pump. i let it dry overnight, i glued the entire mickey gasket, i didnt gobb it all over sloppy like, 8000 miles since and 50 psi just off idle. 40 psi at idle. so far perfect. did you check the oil pressure with a mechanical guage. what is the oil pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 i dont have a guage, but to give u alittle more to think about. the other day. on the way to work the oil pump completely stopped working. then the crank pulley bolt came off down the road. lost. so all the pumps stopped working. over heated..... this is wat the gauge looked like for temp \H ------> /C so i dont even know if it will run again i havent tried. plz let me know wat u think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 the oil pump completely stopped working.... but you dont have a gauge? how did you know it stopped working?? if the engine ran for any length of time with zero oil pressure then you have no guarantees... but if the temp gauge only got 3/4 of the way up (AND IF IT IS ACCURATE) then the engine probably did not suffer any damage from the overheat alone.... best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 well i believe it had no oil pressure cuz the thing was tickin and makin all sorts of sounds then the temp went up pretty quick. the needle was in the 3 o'clock position so im sure the motor is done for. i will attempt to do wat i can and will let yall now. i need to atleast get it to run and last 3 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joostvdw Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 how can the engine be running with no oil pump? the oil pump is driven of the timing belt, so if the oil pump doens't turn, the engine can't run. or are you talking about the water pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 It sure sounds like the water pump, not the oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 15, 2007 Author Share Posted November 15, 2007 the liftes and valves or watever are pingin knocking umm ticking w/e u want to call it as if its not getting oil to them. my belt did come off causing me to over heat yes. but the ticking or w/e was there for a few days and the temp was goin up and up and up. so now the motor will barely run and over heats. so im not losing any water so the hg's i think r fine.the oil pump is the only thing i can think of. i will b getting the ej22 this weekend so i will hopefully only have to baby her to work and bak for a week or so. HOPEFULLY. anything that i could do without tearing apart the block and help it plz let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 Pardon my frankness, but if you can't even diagnose a simple overheat, how in the world are you going to swap in an EJ22? Do you even know what that entails? Do you have an adaptor plate yet? Have you ever done wiring on that scale? This is not just a simple swap of engines.... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 16, 2007 Author Share Posted November 16, 2007 hey thanx lol and i really wasnt the one diagnosing the prob. my brother had the car. i got it bak today. the cams were 180 out. took care of the ticking. the water pump belt wasnt tight and slipped off. along with the alt. etc etc. the oil pump was also fine. unfortunately becuz he over heated it so bad cyl. 2 and 4 no longer have any compression. i take it he fried the rings. havent had a chance to mess with that yet. i only pulled the plugs off and wahla.. didnt change a thing with the idle. the HG'S r fine cuz holding water and no oil in water or other way around. and as far as the motor swap no i dont know exactly wat i am doin but i do have family and friends that have done plenty of motor swaps and full build ups. nothing with a subie but im sure with yalls help and some common sense we can figure it out. and yes my brother will have nothing to fuhkin do with it. wat a dumbazz. lmao. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 unfortunately becuz he over heated it so bad cyl. 2 and 4 no longer have any compression. i take it he fried the rings. How do you figure that? 2 and 4 are on the same side so if it were rings that had been "fried", as you so eloquently put it, then one would not expect the two that share a head gasket would be the only ones that were damaged, nor would one expect 1 and 3 to both still be good. Coolant and oil leakage or burning are not the only ways a head gasket can fail. A head gasket holds in 3 things - coolant, oil, and compression. In this case you have a compression only leak - which indicates that the gasket is blown between the two cylinders and no where else. This happens all the time. You are not ready for an EJ swap. Maybe in a few years. Get a handle on what you have before you jump into the deep end over your head. Nearly every aspect of your vehicle has to be changed or modified for the EJ engine to be installed. Overall few have done it and there's good reason. For one thing - why would you waste the effort on a Loyale? What's it got that makes it worth the effort to swap it over? The car will not be worth a single penny more.... it's got no dual range, and Loyale's were stripped down to make way for the Legacy. There's few redeeming qualities that warrant such a massive effort of time and money. If it were a very nice GL, or a lifted DL/GL, or an RX or something perhaps - but not a plain Loyale. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 16, 2007 Author Share Posted November 16, 2007 yo man u dont have to be a wongleflute about the situation. granted i might have thought it was the rings, so instead of being a jackazz u should have just said hey you might want to go ahead and check the gaskets cuz they to hold compression also. the point of these websites and forums are to share information. teach ppl thing they dont know. not be an azz about it just becuz you have more knowledge about it. granted i dont know everything about subaru's or motors in general but im not a complete idiot. in my case the best way for me to learn is to jump right in. i have put alot of money and effort into fixing the inside and out of the car so i just dont want to get rid of it cuz its not a good car. now that i have done the cosmetic part i want to do the power/driveline part. im sure if i cant figure something out then someone on here or somewhere else will help. if you would like to share ur knowledge then right on, it will b greatly appreciated. im not a newb but im not a master of the ***************. u seem alot smarter then alot of ppl on here and ur help would come in handy. now thanx for the info about the HG, i will take a look as soon as i can. i have the money and goin to get the motor this weekend, the adapter plate is on its way aswell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 You say I'm being an rump roast, and I say I'm telling you the truth. I've seen it many times before. And IMO a reality check is in order. You aren't using your time or resources wisely. That IS being helpful. A lot more helpful than saying nothing and letting you get way in over your head on something like an EJ swap on a worthless car. The HG is an easy fix - and you'll learn something along the way. Start with that and save your money. Don't make the mistake that many other kids have made on this site and others - sinking your money and time into a car that is never going to be worth more than $500 is a waste. If you want Legacy power, then buy a Legacy. Leave the EJ swaps to people with classic or collectible vehicles, or who are doing it to lifted rigs, etc that are merely toys. Don't do this to your $500 reliable transportation. Of course you aren't going to listen to me anyway, but at least I can say "I told you so"..... yet again. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude_4_sale Posted November 16, 2007 Author Share Posted November 16, 2007 hey man i understand. and its not like i havent done a HG job on the car already. i have done both on this car and my 86 gl. i have been looking forward to the swap for three years now. yes im sure that i will get stuck and come asking for help but i dont give up, and if it takes three more years then so be it. i appreciate ur opinion cuz u have probly been there b4. but ya nothing u say will make me change my mind. so anything that u can help with regarding the swap would help alot. thanx in advance. dont get me wrong i know i am getting in way over my head but i have done serveral rebuilds and build ups with my dad, the only part i am really goin to have a prob with is the wiring. i have the write up but it dont help that much. i plan on sending the harness off to (forgot name lol) to be stripped and labeled. so again i appreciate ur opinion and anything u can help me with. i have alot of respect for u cuz u have helped me with stuff b4 so thanx again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 16, 2007 Share Posted November 16, 2007 the only part i am really goin to have a prob with is the wiring. i have the write up but it dont help that much. The wireing IS the swap. The mechanical stuff is not all that bad - just time consuming as there is a large list of changes. Without full, and intimate knowledge of the workings of fuel injection, and good working knowledge of electrical in general, I don't feel that a swap of this magnitude is something that should be performed at all - even with a pre-made harness. There's safety to be considered here - you are dealing with high-pressure fuel, and electrical circuitry. Proper installation is critical for both your safety and everyone elses on the road. I've seen some really hinky wireing in my day (Generator Technician) and some of the worst was done by backyard auto mechanics. You should NEVER use a crimp style connector for instance - these are temporary or very low voltage at best. If you can't solder, and don't have the skills to do acid prep, know what type of flux to use, and can figure out the amperage draw of the various devices on your circuits..... you shouldn't be doing wireing at all. Not on the same roads I drive on GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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