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6 lug conversion


subaruguru
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hey guys i have been thinking about making 6 lug kits just simple bolt on parts i will start to make them for ea82 style first because thats what kind of hubs i have at the moment but i can make them for ea81s also. with this kit you will be able to just pull your hubs and bolt theas hubs (drums for the rear) on to you're car. then you send me you're old hubs and drums. i am going to charge $20 a hub. so $80 and your old parts for a 6 lug conversion. with this conversion you will be able to run 6lug toyota,chevy,mazda ect. style wheels.

 

So now how many people would like to have a six lug kit. let me know. PS lug nuts are includid with purchase.

 

Thanks Rob.:cool:

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for my first set im gonna use extra subaru studds i have but but after i get going and if people want them i will probly get them from autozone.

 

hey REX if your car runs the ea81 style hubs,drums i have enough for one set. also you pay shiping for the new parts and i will pay shiping for your old parts. this applys to every one.

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I know there's a lot of business doing this. I'm interested in it. My friend is too. But I'm worried about onroad applications (if you meant these to be an offroad mod) because of the centering of the holes, and if you weld the old holes, I'd be worried about the balance. I'm not a mathematician or engineer, but I know that something being slightly out of balanced spinning really fast isn't a good thing.

 

That said, I'm still interested. That's a very good price. Hey, I could probably make the jig for you, if your interested. I have a lathe, milling machine, and a spiffy angle guide (Allows you to drill a hole, rotate 60 degrees, drill another).

 

PM me if your interested.

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first of all drilling these without a proper jig and mill is ridiculous to sell.if you use these on your own rig...cool.but don't go about setting yourself up for failure.

 

have you even done a set?

 

 

 

cause if you haven't.you should wait to see how it goes before you try an offer them to the public.just 2 cents from someone that spent countless hours attempting to do this and a ************ ton of cash on drill bits ,hubs,and various other tools to accomplish it.(ie center punches,oil,etc..)

 

if you want to make money ,go get a job.don't put others in danger through their trust of you.

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ok im asking who would like some when i make them i will puta pic up and vidio of my car with them. i have drilled hubs befor and i know how they will act so if you are going to critique my work pleas do not post here thank you. also i do not install this kit it is do it you're self.

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i am not bashing.simply asking questions,and giving advice.

if you don't like it,sorry.just remember,you are a long way from being the first to have these ideas.i don't care if i am right mate,but i do care if people get hurt in the end.where are the first set you did?mine went back to the recyclers.........unfortunately video won't do you any good on this one.the final result can only be found with each individual hub.

 

 

 

 

ok im asking who would like some when i make them i will puta pic up and vidio of my car with them. i have drilled hubs befor and i know how they will act so if you are going to critique my work pleas do not post here thank you. also i do not install this kit it is do it you're self.
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  • 2 weeks later...
....don't put others in danger through their trust of you.

With all do respect, lifting Subarus and putting bigger wheels and tires on them isn't exactly keeping people safe. Bigger wheels/tires means more stopping power is needed and I don't think the Subaru Engineers designed the stock brake system (small rotors) to stop huge tires plus miscellaneous additions like bumpers. If you keep it off road, cool, but once you get on a road, you are putting others in danger. If you want to put it in that perspective.

 

Also, I do have a lifted wagon that I do plan on putting bigger tires/wheels on and I don't plan on doing much with the brakes.

 

I also understand that you don't think he should be marketing this for general sale. I agree, but, I'm not going to shoot him down and tell him that his idea is bad. But maybe suggest that he states "off road use only". Then maybe he can get some money together to get some of the correct tools and then he can make them more precisely. This board has been leaning to the "shoot the idea down" side than "Well, that sounds like a good idea but maybe you should start with..."

 

Maybe you did mean that, but I inferred it otherwise.

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As far as the idea goes....When I got my subaru (ea82t wagon) I was never happy w/ my wheel/ tire set up. Being new to the subaru world I didnt know what they had for aftermarket support or lack there of. I found a thread somewhere about a year ago giving me instruction on this mod. Ive known a cnc programer for a little while now and dropped off a set of hubs to make measurements and make a jig to hold it. Took about a week to get back (as he did it on his spare time) but they were perfect! Each hole is exactly where it needs to be and he counter sunk the holes so the head would sit flat against the hub. Popped in new studs and whalla! Time to buy some wheels. Well I went w/ toyota wheels being they where larger on the center diameter. Went back to my friend and had him make me up some "hub centric" rings for all the hubs. They are the same I.D. as the O.D. of the "oem hub centric nubs" on the hubs and the same O.D as the I.D. of the wheel. With a small lip on the part that rides against the flat surface of the hub. So when the wheel is on it holds or press fits the hub centric ring in place. Actually they were snug and I had to lightly tap them over the nubs so regardless there is no way for them to fall off.

 

In short I drove the car w/ and w/o the hub centric rings. You can alighn the wheel w/o them but once you go offroad and hit bumps hard you can get them slightly out. I lightly wheel it and drive it everyday to work and every winter weekend to the mountain, so it MUST be road worthy! With the hub centric rings, I can hit bumps hard enough to bring me out of my seat and slam my head into the roof and hurt myself :cool: and when I get back on the highway its back up to 70mph w/ zero vibrations, coming from the wheels that is, the cv joints are another story :headbang: (there not bad either, just standard NVH) I was pretty leary of not having the extra holes welded, due to strength, but they have been installed for a year or more now and have gone like 35k on them over 2 eng's, many cv joints, many offroad journeys, harsh hill climbs, harsh bumpy roads, trashed a wheel and back on the freeway to commute every day to work! With no cracks or signs of stress what so ever. It can be safe if done correctly.

 

If anyone wants pictures I can put some up. Im new here.....

 

I dont mean to thread jack but if anyone is interested in this "off road" only conversion w/ hub centric rings let me know. I remember shooting the idea to him when he was dropping them off and if he had 5 or so to do, He would do them for $100 a pop. If he had to do them one at a time, the price would most likely go up a little as he would have to re-enter the program and set up the jig. And I dont want to bother him w/ a bunch of individual items. I just like to drop off a box. He gets it all done it one setting, which also keeps our cost down. Im unsure of the price for the hub centric rings. I know he used a really really hard aluminum. So depending on the cost of materials, the time on a lathe isnt too extensive. Let me know and I will get some solid quotes. BUT there will be a core charge if you dont send in your hubs. I have a few sets laying around and will be able to ship out the hubs as soon as the cores and payment both arive.

 

Let me know Jess

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I dont mean to thread jack but if anyone is interested in this "off road" only conversion w/ hub centric rings let me know.

 

Let me know Jess

 

If I was going to be off road only, I'd use the $20 ones the original poster posted about. You should start another thread about these, as posting them on someone's thread who is trying to market these is kind of vain. Now, for on-road use, yes, CNC would be preferred, but as you'll find out, (I've said this before) there's a reason most of us drive these old Subarus, necessity. Most of us can't afford $100 a hub. Especially when you can almost get the whole impreza/xt6 conversion setup for that.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Johnson']If I was going to be off road only' date=' I'd use the $20 ones the original poster posted about. You should start another thread about these, as posting them on someone's thread who is trying to market these is kind of vain. Now, for on-road use, yes, CNC would be preferred, but as you'll find out, (I've said this before) there's a reason most of us drive these old Subarus, necessity. Most of us can't afford $100 a hub. Especially when you can almost get the whole impreza/xt6 conversion setup for that.[/quote']

 

 

Sorry your confused. Thats $100 a set of 4. If you ship me you hubs.

 

Im going to set up a group buy for Jan 1st.

 

I say "offroad only" for liability. I have been running mine for while now onroad and there safe as can be. I dont feel the slighest bit worried about the job. If you read my thread, You would have read about the hub centric rings.

 

Jess

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All you need to know about this is steel wheels = hand drilled, and mag wheels = precision milled/jig drilled. I did my own the first time, and simply knocked out 2 of the stock studds, bolted up to the hub, and drilled the other 4 by eye-ball with a heavy duty drill, and a new 9/16 drill bit. Your really gonna need a HEAVY duty drill, if you use a standard drill your going to burn up the motor in most in a heart beat before you finish the first 2 hubs. I drilled the stock hubs to include the front discs and drum rears, however, I stayed safe and went with 14" wheels from a '87 2x4 nissian pu. I have 14" tires for the street that are the same exact outside diameter as stock with 13", and I use the ATV tires off road. I have used this set-up with no problems with wheels for close to 2 years now and my brat is my daily driver. Not all the holes are precise, even to the eye, and I had to use JB weld to get the wheel studs to hold well enough to for tightening, but you can just hold them still with your fingers on the back-side enough to tighten. You will just need to use a die or angle grinder on the back side of the hubs to make the surface flat for the wheel studs, but it's really just an afternoon job. You will definatly want to use a smaller drill bit to drill through the hubs first (I used the 9/16 bit to make the first divit into the metal for the 1/4" bit that I used as a pilot and LOTS of cutting oil to keep the bit cool) with a smaller bit, I used a 1/4" and if I had to do it over again, I would have taken the time to get a true 14mm drill bit so the studds fit tighter, but the 9/16" will work, just be sure to explain the situation to your local tire shop when they do work on it so they don't over-torque the studds, I prefer to hand tighten them personally. Just wanted to give my $ .02

 

I would say go for it! As long as people understand the risk, and are willing to use with out holding you responsible for their use of them, there should be no problem. Yes it is a risk, and yes lifting your soob is modifying the geometry, etc. etc. but it all comes down to what you understand about the calculated risk your taking. That said, I would DEFINATLY say convert to disc in the rear if your going over a 27" tire because any speed on the street with a over-loaded brake means potential danger of an over heated break failure. I know it has also been done and gotten away with, just more risk than I would take :burnout:

 

This is a pain to do yourself, and I think the offer is VERY reasonable, by all means try this if your inclined, I have NEVER had any balancing issues.

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