joshuacoyote Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Hi, Driving home tonight in stop and go just after 15 miles of freeway driving, my 95 legacy wagon (manual trans- almost 200k) just stopped rolling. I urged it to the side and sat for a while. I eventually "fixed" the situation by stomping on the brake a few times. The car rolled freely again, except for one more time, and this I corrected with a tap. At home I felt the rotors- both fronts were pretty hot compared to the rears. The questions arise- are both calipers seized? Can I replace them myself in my driveway, do I need a special tool? I have replaced honda brakes in the 80's. Is there a good online source for the procedure? Thanks for your help. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Replacing the calipers is easy stuff if not rusted to death. Hardess part should be bleeding the brakes when done. May want to consider new pads and rotors and make it a done deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 You can get buy with a "seak kit". That has new piston seals and boots for the caliper sliders. Use a lithium or silicone based grease. I have learned the hard way that copper grease swells the rubber boots and causes caliper seizing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 caliper replacement is very easy, once the wheel is off it's only 2 bolts and a banjo fitting for the brake line. no special tools. bleeding afterwards is the only tricky part for someone who's never done it before. there are rebuild kits, which are also very simple to use if buying new is too pricey. there's not much to a caliper so the rebuild is very simple - one seal and a dust boot that's it. there's lots more information on here if you want to look up any specifics. there's some good bleeding tips on the other current brake thread going on right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 I resealed mine with the reseal kit. I think the kit to do both fronts or both rears is maybe $30. The only time the reseal kit isn't a good idea is if water got into the piston/caliper bore area and pitted it; then it might just be time for a reman caliper. Right on, you need silicone or some other synthetic based grease. Petroleum based grease swells the rubber parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 The reseal kit includes all the rubber components to rebuild both front calipers. Reseal kit varies depending on what calipers you have...it also includes the Subaru spec'd red niglube grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Driving home tonight in stop and go just after 15 miles of freeway driving, my 95 legacy wagon (manual trans- almost 200k) just stopped rolling. I urged it to the side and sat for a while. I eventually "fixed" the situation by stomping on the brake a few times. The car rolled freely again, except for one more time, and this I corrected with a tap. At home I felt the rotors- both fronts were pretty hot compared to the rears. The questions arise- are both calipers seized?[...] Welcome to the forum. With that much mileage, there are a few possibilities. It certainly could be that the front calipers are sticking, and should be inspected. However, the fact that a "tap" corrected the problem has me thinking that the rest of the hydraulics, including the master cylinder, should also be looked at. There could be contamination or other issues; when was the brake fluid last flushed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 Good point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 the fronts take more pounding than the rears (hence the usual larger rotors, larger calipers, larger pads...etc). so that they were hotter than the rears may not mean anything. it is very, very unlikely that both are seized. as a matter of fact i would be sure to diagnose this properly before replacing a bunch of high dollar front brake parts. what if the emergency brake is somehow to blame and sticking or the master cylinder or brake booster has issues. there's nothing you've mentioned yet that convinces me of the actual cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 I think that model has the hill holder, could that maybe not releasing the brakes completely after application of something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 could that maybe not releasing the brakesi don't know, maybe we need a picture!!!???!!?? just kidding, i love all the pic's, that's great. i'm wondering how you do it so efficiently, maybe i'm too lazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 hehe...no problem. It's mostly the same set of pics over and over...and now I have one of the hill holder! Hm, maybe I am getting a littleee carried away here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 8, 2007 Share Posted December 8, 2007 An abstract thought. On my old VW's and a Honda Accord or two I've had this happen. The Rubber brake line 'collapses' internally. Outside it looks fine. What happens is when there is high pressure(brake depressed) it works o.k. Problem is when the pedal is released and the pressure is less and the fluid tries to travel the other way there is too much resistance. It may start to flow but then stops with pressure remaing - thus caliper has pressure... I didn't see what year your car is. I've had it happen to early 90's Honda's. My VW's are from the 60's and 70's. I've taken to replacing the hoses before even looking at the brakes(other than the known wimpy wheel cylinders on the drum brakes). Just a thought. Dave Hi, Driving home tonight in stop and go just after 15 miles of freeway driving, my 95 legacy wagon (manual trans- almost 200k) just stopped rolling. I urged it to the side and sat for a while. I eventually "fixed" the situation by stomping on the brake a few times. The car rolled freely again, except for one more time, and this I corrected with a tap. At home I felt the rotors- both fronts were pretty hot compared to the rears. The questions arise- are both calipers seized? Can I replace them myself in my driveway, do I need a special tool? I have replaced honda brakes in the 80's. Is there a good online source for the procedure? Thanks for your help. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 Here's something I learned/experienced a long time ago. If just one brake is dragging enough it will generate heat. The heat is transferred to the brake fluid which then expands. Expansion of the brake fluid inturn casues the brakes to drag more generating more heat. Eventually all the brakes just lock up. Just one dragging brake could explain why both front brakes got hot. Car may have brake shoes in the rear that are adjusted looser then the front disc brakes. All MC have a small port to prevent this. This small port allows the expanding fluid to escape back into the reservoir. I would strongly suspect the MC s the source of this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 i did not read whole post so forgive if this is point less i have a set of 95 leg calipers in good shape for cheap if your interested pm if so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshuacoyote Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 the fronts take more pounding than the rears (hence the usual larger rotors, larger calipers, larger pads...etc). so that they were hotter than the rears may not mean anything. it is very, very unlikely that both are seized. as a matter of fact i would be sure to diagnose this properly before replacing a bunch of high dollar front brake parts. what if the emergency brake is somehow to blame and sticking or the master cylinder or brake booster has issues. there's nothing you've mentioned yet that convinces me of the actual cause. Hi - That's where I am going with this....how do i check the master cylinder and booster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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