toadleyb Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 Hey all, I have an 87 DL wagon EA82 SPFI. I have had it about 3 years and it has run like a champ up until recently. It doesn't get driven much in the summer. I just started driving it on a regular basis in the last week or so. The problem I am having is this. When I start it on a cold day it starts hard and I have to keep feathering the accelerator to keep it running for the 1st 2 to 3 minutes. Once I get it to stay running it will keep surging like someone is sitting in the car hitting the accelerator. If I don't let it warm up for a long period of time it will bog bad when I step on it but then all of a sudden kick up to a really fast idle and take off on me! I have done some reading about the TPS and IAC. Could one of these be the culprit? If so is there a way to clean them or do they need to be replaced? Thanks for any help anyone can offer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 Could be a lot of things, but I would be checking the Coolant Temp Sensor and it's plug followed by a good IAC cleaning. Both can cause temperature related problems. TPS shouldn't be temperature related. My money is on the CTS being faulty or the plug corroded. Check for ECU codes too. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadleyb Posted December 9, 2007 Author Share Posted December 9, 2007 Thanks for the reply. Where is the CTS located? Todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 9, 2007 Share Posted December 9, 2007 It's near the thermostat housing on the manifold. Should be a 17 or 19mm with a two-blade connector. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadleyb Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 I found the CTS and cleaned the connectors. My car has the CTS with the pigtail attached. This didn't help at all. I just did a diagnostic check and I am getting 8 different error codes. These are the codes I am getting 21 - CTS 24 - Air control valve 31 - TPS 32 - O2 Sensor 34 - EGR solenoid 35 - Purge control Solenoid valve 42 - Idle Switch 51 - Neutral Switch Is it really possible all of these things are bad or could one or more be causing others? Anybody wanna buy an 87 DL wagon??? Todd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Howdy Todd, You ask "could one or more be causing others?" Answer is maybe, the problems you have had could be setting "ghost" codes. Try clearing the codes* and checking them again as soon as you get a CEL (*info for this procedure is in the USRM) The cleaning of the contacts that GD mentions is mainly for the MPFI units. Their CTS contacts get corroded from being in a "well" where water tends to collect. Your SPFI unit does not have this type of connection as you correctly state. You problem is probably related to the IAC. But you could also have other problems. The ECU is your friend in these endeavors. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is mounted on the front of the throttle body, this unit is known for gumming up and causing idle issues just as you describe. It should be cleaned at regular intervals. There are several methods -> all can be found by searching Note: the search function needs four letter words or the use of the wild card * e.g. IAC* not just IAC The CTS in your case can be easily tested as it is a variable resistance. The chart for these resistances vs temp can be found also by searching. If you have problems finding these articles please ask for assistance. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Several of those can be false codes. And others could be triggered by the effects of running crappy off bad data from a failed CTS. Did you test the resistance of the CTS? Resistance should be around 2-3k Ohms at 68 degreesF. Higher resistance if colder, up to 11k ohms resistance should drop as the engine warms up. Down to between 200-500 ohms hot. Basically anything other than Zero Ohms or Infinite, and change that correponds to temp, means it's good. If not replace it. I would ignore codes 32 thru 51 for now. They are not likely the problem. Only others that are troubleing are the TPS code and the Air Control Valve. But for now, Lets test the CTS, confirm it as good or get it replaced. Then clear the Codes(hook up both stes of connectors, start car, run it for 40 seconds, til the CEL blinks) and then see what still comes up in D check(just greens) Next test is the TPS though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadleyb Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 Thanks for the response. I am done fighting with it for now. Been playing for 3 or 4 hours and it is stinking cold and wet outside. I just took apart the IAC and cleaned it up with some brake clean. Didn't seem to help any. I will try your recommendations later and post back. I have a bunch of errands to run. Will see how the car runs. Thanks Todd PS I forgot to mention at no time during all of these problems has the CEL come on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 Did you say the CEL has not been on at all - and you have 8 different errors? It should be on. maybe it's burnt out. I think you should first clear the codes and wait for the error to show up again on the ECU, otherwise you're just guessing and it sounds like you've done enough of that self abuse already. The idle switch might be a possiblity, either dirty/bouncy or could just need adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 The idle switch might be a possiblity, either dirty/bouncy or could just need adjustment. +1 for this It was my next though after the CTS But for sure make sure the CEL is working, clear codes, start over, after each repair or adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notliving Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 (edited) ..... Edited November 28, 2010 by notliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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