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A couple of things:

 

I was so excited having my forst Outback (96)

Esp heated seats

 

drivers seat: back element heats bot the part you sit on does not--anyrthing it could be or just shot? Where do you get a new one and how tough are they to replace?

 

The switch is for high and low right?

only the high light works

 

Pass seat..nothing...neither lights on switch come on

 

Are the bulbs replacable? Do they just pull out?

 

Oh...the clock on the radio does not have a light so it is not visible at night...is this normal or is there a bulb out? If so...how do you get to it

 

thanks

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Seat heaters.

 

Bottom and back in parallel on high.

Bottom and back in series for low.

 

This is not unusual that one of the grids have failed in the drivers seat.

 

Not easy at all to fix but doable.

 

nipper

 

Hey Nip

 

Can you elaborate at all as to what is involved?

Anyidea as to cost of a heating unit?

thanks

Bill

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Hey Nip

 

Can you elaborate at all as to what is involved?

Anyidea as to cost of a heating unit?

thanks

Bill

 

If you look at soobymods.com, I think they have an entire step by step procedure. On the face of it, it is not that hard. the hardest part is taking the seat apart (including the seat cover). I think the grid is in the 100-200 range.

 

nipper

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If you look at soobymods.com, I think they have an entire step by step procedure. On the face of it, it is not that hard. the hardest part is taking the seat apart (including the seat cover). I think the grid is in the 100-200 range.

 

nipper

Hey oh great Nipster,

Is there by any chance a connector that may have become dislodged in cleaning under the seats etc?

Jake

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Hey oh great Nipster,

Is there by any chance a connector that may have become dislodged in cleaning under the seats etc?

Jake

 

We have all hoped for that, sadly no. Those are locking connectors.

 

The constant flexing of the drivers seat cushions and age break the coil wires.

 

If it helps i am in the same boat, but my seat bottom works.

 

 

nipper

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I just successfully completed a repair of both the seat bottom and seat back heater elements on a 98 Outback Ltd (leather seats). It was not an easy or quick job - but a freezing derriere soon became enough motivation to get down and do some fixing. Here's what I learned and some useful tips:

1. First check that you are getting voltage at the connector underneath the seat. The voltage is switched between one of two contacts depending upon the high or low setting.

2. If there is no power to the seats - Check for a failed or sticky relay (passenger footwell by the front door jamb). This was a problem I encountered several years ago now - and had to replace the relay. This relay provides power to the heated seats with the ignition key in Acc/Run.

3. If you are getting voltage at the connector underneath the seat (and it correctly switches between the pins based upon the hi/lo setting) - then its time to pull the seat out.

4. Once out - dismantle the fore/after lever and separate the seat into the the base unit and the back.

5. For the seat base - undo the plastic retaining clips all the way around the seat. You will need to push down on the seat to compress the foam and provide enough slack to unhitch the clips.

6. Hog Rings are used to secure the seat cover to rods embedded in the seat cushion - cut the hog rings with cutters (and be sure to remove all shards - they are very sharp).

7. Check for continuity on the main element circuit in the base (be sure to test for continuity without having the thermostats in series with the tester). To get at the thermostat soldered connections you will need a knife or sharp pick to remote any blanket/adhesive. The rear part of the heater blanket is made in a sandwich with double-sided tape holding the sandwich together. I discovered several 'hotspots' where the heater element clearly got hotter than it should - and had singed the foam and the heater blanket material. These are the most likely spots for a break. Also, and here's the kicker, the breaks won't necessarily be visible - because the heater wire is encased in a thin, very tough insulation - and one of the breaks wasn't directly visible because the wire had broken while leaving the insulation intact. It was only by gently bending the wire into a tight radius that it was apparent that the heater wire inside had separated. It is possible to localize these breaks, strip the insulation back, solder the break (preferably twist the two ends together and then solder). Once soldered, I used high-temp silicone to dab on some insulation. The rods embedded in the seat bottom foam had started to separate and pull out in a couple of places - I used superglue to repair those areas and embed the retaining rods firmly back into the foam.

I repeated this process on the seat back - that also had a separate break in it.

Instead of using new Hog Rings - per the link provided to scoobymods - you can use zip ties to tie the seat cushion back down to the base. Then reassemble everything and enjoy the warmth.

So, why go to all this trouble? - well the aftermarket seat heater kits cannot be used in many vehicles that have leather seats. In the OB Ltd seats there are three retaining rods holding the seat cover down to the seat cushion and the one in the middle of the seat (running fore/aft) is the real problem - because it prevents you from using the replacement heater pads which presume that you can use the entire bottom surface (this is not a problem for the cloth seats as far as I'm aware). So I thought I would have one last go at getting the elements back up and working (and all this presuming you don't want to drop $$$ on a new heater blanket - assuming those are available as a separate part)

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thanks nipper

Desertrat,,,Great post! Sounds like a real pain in the arse

 

You said "well the aftermarket seat heater kits cannot be used in many vehicles that have leather seats"

I have cloth seats

What are these "after market heater kits? Like a universal element used to replace the OEM inside the seat?

Where do you get them and about how much do they cost?

 

With all that work, I would never spend $150 or more...I'd rather spend that money on a remote starter installation

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