daeron Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 I am setting off on a search as soon as I post this.. A month or two ago I replaced my purge control solenoid, because I had broken off the nipple from the top years ago when I did my thermostat, and had repaired it with JB weld. It was acceptable, but somewhere along the line I found an easy chance to snag a spare, and "got around" to installing it one fine day. Shortly thereafter, my AC controls started going intermittent and then totally, and now my cruise no longer works adequately (it tries but the servo doesn't get enough vacuum pressure) AND my transmission isn't shifting good at ALL; when cold the standard "wont upshift until 4K" problem is aggravated, and at unpredictable times it fails to downshift on a stop or a rolling stop. I took my governor out and eyeballed it finally. (I had been meaning to since joining USMB and finding out that they are the typical cause of the cold shift problem) I have a beautiful, metal governor gear. The internal gear felt OK to me, but I didn't try TOO hard; the valve in the governor functioned perfectly smooth but I didn't disassemble because I had difficulty with the snap ring. I just recently obtained the PCV elbows needed for the "retrofit" from the JY and am planning on purchasing all new vacuum line. I also have a gallon of ATF; I am going (as soon as I search a bit on the modulator) to drain what I can out here in a little bit and fill her up. I pulled the vacuum line off the hardline going to the modulator and it looked clean and free of ATF; should I have done that with the vehicle running? What other checks on the modulator exist? I am sure I will answer that question by searching, to an extent... My thoughts are, change a gallon of fluid, change the vacuum lines, get ANOTHER solenoid and install it (no CEL ever) or just install a fooler resistor and bypass the solenoid altogether, and if I still have problems possibly remove the modulator for inspection and change more fluid at that time. The trans doesn't slip, and most of the time it shifts OK.. but its noticably off its game. At 150K I would rather it just "keep working" but I am not beating around the bush here; if this box is going south then the only option to me is fivespeed. That being the case, I want to try minimal efforts to get this trans to be happy again, and might even consider buying a *new* modulator (as opposed to JYing it) IF that is likely to fix my problem... What do YOU think.. Hmmmmm?????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 okay, upon some further reflection I am going to purchase a multi pack of cheapo HELP brand oil drain plugs at autozone, so I am going to wait and drain the ATF when I get back, and also drain the diff fluid and replace THAT seal, and top it off. (fun times) This is part of a grand vacuum/PCV and oil leak mystery that I am trying to embark upon solving.. I probably have half a dozen oil vapor leaks from old PCV hoses, a power steering fluid leak, possibly bad front oil seals, oil filler seal, diff seal... I have got to start identifying some of these sources of the Valdezian slick under my hood..... Oil is just too expensive to be throwing away like I have been. ANY thoughts or comments that may shed light on why my dipstick is constantly being popped out of the tube, and how that may relate to the rest of all this, feel free to sound off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 HVAC and cruise control, and possibly the shifting are all pointing to a huge vac leak someplace. Start spraying hoses and connections with a spray bottle of water, or if too cold, a can of throttle plate clearner (not carb cleaner unless it ok for electronics). This would solve so many of your problems. The Dipstick is usually a sign of the PCV valve being clogged. Replace with a OE PCV. A clogged PCV valve cna cause oil leaks, the dipstick popping, and oil consumption. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 HVAC and cruise control, and possibly the shifting are all pointing to a huge vac leak someplace. Start spraying hoses and connections with a spray bottle of water, or if too cold, a can of throttle plate clearner (not carb cleaner unless it ok for electronics). This would solve so many of your problems. The Dipstick is usually a sign of the PCV valve being clogged. Replace with a OE PCV. A clogged PCV valve cna cause oil leaks, the dipstick popping, and oil consumption. nipper I haven't sprayed any combustibles yet, but I hear NOTHING, and have scoured the engine bay with my favorite "ear-hose" listening for hissing. I removed the PCV and it is as clean as can be, functions perfectly. Ample flow one way, total cutoff the other. Before my drive just now, I took the little cap that WAS on my replacement purge solenoid and put it back in place of the vacuum line for the CC. (the donor car had no cruise.) Trans shifted without any problems (car was already slightly warm still) so I have now tried installing that cap, on the exit from the solenoid. In other words, I capped off the port going to the charcoal canister, and re-installed the cruise line. I'm about to go get some tires; I will check the cruise on the drive to see if it works, or tries harder. The AC control definitely did not work, but I am not 100% that those are really related.. my vacuum switch has been slowly breaking (the mounting screw tabs are busted off, so its falling back into the dash) so it MAY have just "gone out" in some other way.. but this trans and cruise stuff is DEFINITELY hand in hand with the stupid solenoid. And I spent my entire $30 gift card (and then some) without getting any PCV or vacuum hoses... I WILL figure this out soon; I got a can of gunk and a can of carb cleaner to degrease my engine thoroughly later this week, and I will determine exactly where the oil leaks are coming from and nip them in the bud then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Does this thing have a vacume pump on it? I know some with cruise control did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted December 18, 2007 Author Share Posted December 18, 2007 I think?? there is a unit under the hood that has a vacuum line running to it, and thenceforth into the cabin. It is supplied with vacuum from the port on the passenger side of the solenoid, facing slightly towards the front. When cruise is on, the unit makes a noise that could quite well be that of a vacuum pump. It is factory cruise, being a GL-10. I tried some experimenting on the trip to get her new shoes, and the car ran awfully with the solenoid output to the canister capped off and the hardline leading to the canister left open to atmosphere.. but I had nothing to plug that off with, so I just re installed everything the "right" way when I got to my brother's place to get the tires. Tried cruise briefly on the ride home, but rush hour traffic wasnt conducive to a good test.. before, it was functioning, but only barely applying any force to the pedal. Tonight, I still have the ATF drain, and also the diff while I am at it, and I replace both drain plug seals. Will report when I am done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Get yourself a vacume gauge and see what is going on. I bet that pump is tired. It may also be the cause of your vacum leak. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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