Durania Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 The check engine light has been on since the mid '90's. I just now figured out how to pull the codes and I believe it turned up a code 45. Here is the video of the flashing. I didnt understand the description of the code at all, anyone else had it? Also I have been having trouble with the car running. I took of the IAC valve and cleaned the snot out of it with throttle body cleaner recommended by 86BRATMAN. I started it up after doing that and it still ran like crap after a few seconds. Next, I cleaned the tar out of the MAF. Here is the pics of what it looked like after cleaning: Is that what a normal MAF is suppose to look like inside? Here is the video of the end result: Does this seem like a normal running EJ22 to the rest of you all? Thanks for the help in trying to diagnose this irritating issue. Kyle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 Did you try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and see if that clears the old code? What did the 3 long 5 short flashes indicate on the code sheet for your Model and year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 I don't know the code read outs, so I can't help in that regard. However, if it has been several years since this car has had a tune up, then I would suggest that you change the spark plugs and plug wires. A new oxygen sensor would also help driveability if the existing one is many years old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 That is a code 35, Purge control solenoid valve. Very common failure item on that vintage of Legacy. It is located on the RH side of the intake manifold, under #3 intake runner. A failed PC solenoid valve should not cause any drivability, or runability problems. From the vidio I can not tell any problem with the way the car is running. Maybe a discripition of the problem would be more helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 By your own video, you have code 35 and not 45. Reading Haynes (which i suggest you buy): Purge control solenoid valve. Purge control solenoid remains in the ON or OFF position during operation. I think this has to do with the Evaporative Emission Control System. If it's like on the 96, there's a black plastic canister at the right front of the engine compartment. One of the vac lines coming from it will lead you to the aformentioned solenoid. Maybe a vac line is leaking or disconnected. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Thanks guys, this was my first attempt at pulling codes off this old of a vehicle; am use to being able to hook my OBDII reader up and get them that way. The car will run fine for a few minutes then its like its being flooded, as my exhaust has a real strong gasoline smell, and my RPM's will drop. Also,when I get on it, it seems to shift too early. Any other ideas? Extra: My legacy is doing exactly how its described here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19334&highlight=Purge+control+solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 The surging idle is most likely due to carbon build up in the IAC. If is looks like the one pictured in the linked thread, it is very easy to clean. If it looks different this cleaning methoed may or may not work. Don't use carb or brake clean. I recommend WD-40 or Sea Foam in an aerosol can. Hook it up like the picture below, start the engine and spray cleaner while operating the throttle buy hand to keep engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Guess thats what I was doing wrong, I was taking it off and cleaning it with the motor not running. I will attempt that when the rain tapers off today or the weekend. Ive cleaned it twice already it seemed to help it a little bit but not too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Does your IAC look like this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Sure does, its located in the exact same spot as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 I just reread your first post, were you said you cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner. I was thinking you had cleaned the throttle body. My mistake. OK, if you have completely removed and cleaned the IAC twice, then may very well not the problem. What is the condition of the tune? Plugs, wires, air and fuel filter. How many miles since replacement? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 I just reread your first post, were you said you cleaned the IAC with throttle body cleaner.I was thinking you had cleaned the throttle body. My mistake. OK, if you have completely removed and cleaned the IAC twice, then may very well not the problem. What is the condition of the tune? Plugs, wires, air and fuel filter. How many miles since replacement? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Air filter is good I checked it yesterday when I had the MAF out. The plugs and wires are my next step, gonna purchase those probably the next pay check. Lord knows how many miles it has been since they were replaced, I drove it about a year ago and has been sitting pretty much since then. Was going to check for vacuum leaks today but it rained all day so I will try and check them tomorrow. Thanks, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 First thing's first, you need to replace the canister purge solenoid. You can do all these different tests and cleaning, etc. But as long as you have an active code stored in the ECU, you may have other issues that are not showing up because of it, or you may be having issues because of the cpc. In theory you shouldn't have any drivability issues with the CPC failed, but I remember a thread or two where there were the car wouldn't idle/run too smoothly. So, just to make sure that isn't the problem, I'd suggest replacing it. Plus the ECU is funny where it won't show other codes, or clear the codes stored if a code 35 is present. So just bear with me, replace it, clear the codes and go from there. If you haven't run across my site, I'd check it out for reading codes, etc. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru under engine related. The only weird thing I noted is that there were two quick flashes at the beginning of the first video with the CEL flashing. Are you connecting the black connectors or green connectors to check the codes? As for the way your car is running in the second video, I don't see anything out of the ordinary. Any additional details you can provide of the specific problems you're having would help. Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 I connected the two green ones. It ran fine for a little bit after that and it has some lurchng and some bucking while driving, also it likes to die at red lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Think you have to connect the black ones though As well your 'AT-oil' light doesnt come on. or is at 2wd??? And of right of your right indicator is it a 'seatbelt warning' light?? (have never seen those on european models). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 If you used the green connectors, you were in D-check mode rather than Read memory mode. This mode will only tell you if there is a malfunction at the time that the test is being ran. Will not give any history codes for intermittent problems that are not occuring at the time. To read the memory you need the black connectors connected and the green disconnected. Key on engine off. Chances are good that there will be a lot of codes stored in the memory. Funny thing about these OBD I cars if they are driven for a long time with any fault, they will start storing false codes. So don't be suprized if there is a long list of codes in the memory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Yeah....as mentioned, check the codes stored using the black connectors. You may or may not find any other codes. You still need to replace the CPC solenoid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 3, 2008 Author Share Posted January 3, 2008 Ok that will be my next project once the weather gets above 18. I will just record it and post my video on here like I did last time and we can go from there. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 I connected the black plugs today and got the new codes: I don't seem to have much trouble when idling in park, my real struggle comes when I put it in gear and start driving. I have to put in Neutral at red lights and give it gas to keep it from dying. I started the car and sprayed the tar out of the IAC again with this time it running, drove it and it still did the same thing. I checked for vaccum leaks and couldnt find any either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 You have code 23- MAF Sensor, and 35- Purge control solenoid. Sounds like a bad MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 6, 2008 Author Share Posted January 6, 2008 I watched this video on youtube: And I do believe that could be the cuase of some of my issues. I to believe the MAF could be bad, just the way it cuts out and bucks like its getting a bad connection especaially while driving as my issues are fairly small when sitting in park. I will go check junkyard on Monday since they have a 91 wagon and plan to snag both parts, what does your all canister solenoid look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 7, 2008 Author Share Posted January 7, 2008 I found this pic: Don't really know what I am looking at, but I remember seeing this area when I took the IAC off and cleaned it. Going to go to the junkyard in the morning, how would I go about getting this off and replacing it, whatever it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Purchased a MAF from this Subaru only junkyard my parts guy told me about (see old gen for pics); fixed my goofy idle issue. Now on to that purge solenoid, anyone got one cheap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Glad to hear the MAF fixed your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I assume the item you are asking about in the picture is the device that has the hose attached to it and has the electrical connection to it. That is an air valve that uses a solenoid to open and close it. With power applied, the valve opens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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