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Low Fuel Light Doesn't Work?? 98 Obw


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OK, I pulled the dash apart. :eek:

 

Checked all the lights, seems to be 3 types, Brown, Black, and Grey.

Brown ones illuminate the panel. Black ones illuminate the warning lights(oil-batt-abs-seat belt-CEL, etc).

The only one that is different is the Low Fuel Light? Its color is grey (and states this on the circuit card along with 6.5 an arrow pointing to the socket hole), and different in size than any other ones. Seems like there pretty proud of this light, has its own color, unique size, and a name tag on the circuit board.

The Low Fuel Bulb is the only one to fail the continuity test. After cleaning the contacts, I applied power and it and it illuminated :)

Its now been reinstalled and waiting to empty a full tank.

I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

 

Update, drained tank down to E again. Light still refuses to illuminate :mad:

Must be that thermistor :confused:

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Check to see if you have voltage on the lead going to the thermistor where the connection goes into the tank. If the wire from the light and to the thermistor is ok you should see a voltage close to 12 volts. You should also be able to ground that connection and make the light turn on. Skip said he had a resistance of about 800 ohms on the thermistor he measured. There also may be a broken connection inside the tank to the thermistor.

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Just to add a smidge of info to this thread. My gas light comes on at approximately 10 liters of fun left. At about 6 liters left the light strip that surrounds the gas gauge and the gauges backlight flash intermittently.

 

Havnt run her dry yet. +1 to Nipper - its much nicer to fill up in small chunks. When that little meter on the pump ticks over $100 - i always wonder if buying an H6 was such a good decision :-\

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Check to see if you have voltage on the lead going to the thermistor where the connection goes into the tank. If the wire from the light and to the thermistor is ok you should see a voltage close to 12 volts. You should also be able to ground that connection and make the light turn on. Skip said he had a resistance of about 800 ohms on the thermistor he measured. There also may be a broken connection inside the tank to the thermistor.

 

OK, I'll check for voltage. Thanks :headbang:

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Howdy Blaze, sorry no bell no chime

just a lame little light.

 

If you do want to test / fix it...

 

Behind the rear seat next to the pass side strut tower

under the carpet is a cover in the floor.

 

After removing the cover you will see the top of the fuel tank

and the fuel pump and fuel level sender wiring.

 

 

 

Futher troubleshooting:cool: (HAYNES manual 7J8-89100, page 12-31)

Thanks to this Fourm and its members it sure makes it easier and faster.

Located the ele connector for the fuel pump right where you said it was. However the Gen II wire color is Red/YEL, its the top middle wire on the connector. I grounded out the wire and sure enough the LOW FUEL LIGHT CAME ON :banana:

So now I know its probably the thermistor, or open circuit going to it within the fuel pump housing?

Also keep in mind for those reading this if you ground out the wire it will turn on your check engine light and generate a high temp fuel DTC which is normal.

THANKS SKIP:headbang:

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You are most welcome Blaze, Cougar helped

in this endevour also.

 

Thanks for the wire color up date, way kewl on that!

 

I am hoping to do the test we talked about

but am thinking I need the correct dash lamp -

wattage wise.

 

If you plan on taking the sender / pump / thermistor

out of the tank.

I doubt the wires are long enough but

you could plug the harness back in (with the thermistor

in open air) and see if it lights.

 

Thanks again for the update.

 

 

 

P.S. I edited your post to correct the missing html quote

hope you do not mind.

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