bk2valve Posted January 12, 2008 Author Share Posted January 12, 2008 Red faced and shuffling his feet, I am a few years behind you but have been in the same house for 30 years, => I have some ah some stuff. Now I see why you and the Cat bond so well. But AK to NM -- yea ha that's a switch. You did know that Cat meant the coil "bracket" not the coil body. Just for kickies - humor me and wiggle and giggle the connector from the dist to the car harness. while having it cranked over. Skip....Yeah I hear you...at least I know why Cougar has so much time he can spend on the computer....he doesn't want to go outside and shovel snow! I think we are just "extremists", one extreme to another....there are a few old retired Alaskans here in this area....we are all still trying to warm up! I did the wiggle...giggle operation...nada. Now I was supposed to giggle while I wiggled, right? And yes...I have actually run the bracket and bolts through the wire brush and torqued the bolts down good and tested for good ground on the case of the coil as well as the bracket. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Hotdam, I want to see this solved also. You don't happen to still have your old dwell tach do you? I have a running EA82T (atleast it did 6 months ago??) I am willing to go out and use one to check for ECU pulses or any other test you want done. I also have a automotive O-scope if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Skip, I have a request for you that I think would be of help in these cases. One thing I have wanted to know is if a DVM could pickup the pulses on the lines coming from the CAS sensor in the disty. I have wanted to see if testing the signal lines with the meter in the AC volts mode will pick up the pluses while cranking the engine. The lines have around 5 volts DC on them with the ignition on. I'm not sure what is the best way to hook up to the leads. It may be just across the two leads or one at a time with reference to ground. Could you check that out for me please. I'm sure a scope would show these pulses but most people just have a meter to use for testing so if a meter will work that would be a big help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk2valve Posted January 12, 2008 Author Share Posted January 12, 2008 Skip, I have a request for you that I think would be of help in these cases. One thing I have wanted to know is if a DVM could pickup the pulses on the lines coming from the CAS sensor in the disty. I have wanted to see if testing the signal lines with the meter in the AC volts mode will pick up the pluses while cranking the engine. The lines have around 5 volts DC on them with the ignition on. I'm not sure what is the best way to hook up to the leads. It may be just across the two leads or one at a time with reference to ground. Could you check that out for me please. I'm sure a scope would show these pulses but most people just have a meter to use for testing so if a meter will work that would be a big help. Guys...my old Dwell/Tach is an el cheapo that only has a couple of switches and settings: 2 cycle/4cycle and then Low rpm, Hi rpm and Dwell. It has the inductive lead and a positive lead and negative lead for the battery. It seems to want to show a pulse once when I turn the key on and once as I turn it off when I have the inductive lead clamped over the four wires coming going to the distributor. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Hey Brian, I just checked this thread to see what was going on. If you'd like that disty and igniter, I'll send them out from work on Monday. From what I'm seeing, and all the things I went through with my ignition system. I would agree with the others on either the igniter or CAS. Regardless, you'll get them both for cheap, and I know they work great! So like I said, that stuff will go out on Monday to the address you PM'ed me. Once the shipping is all said and done I'll give you a total. I think we agreed on $20 plus shipping right? If anything should come up, and you find you don't need it, just leave a message on here. I'm on this site everyday,haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk2valve Posted January 13, 2008 Author Share Posted January 13, 2008 Hey Brian, I just checked this thread to see what was going on. If you'd like that disty and igniter, I'll send them out from work on Monday. From what I'm seeing, and all the things I went through with my ignition system. I would agree with the others on either the igniter or CAS. Regardless, you'll get them both for cheap, and I know they work great! So like I said, that stuff will go out on Monday to the address you PM'ed me. Once the shipping is all said and done I'll give you a total. I think we agreed on $20 plus shipping right? If anything should come up, and you find you don't need it, just leave a message on here. I'm on this site everyday,haha. 94Loyale....thanks very much. I do want the parts and you said $25+ shipping...I feel like I am getting a great deal and appreciate the heck out of it.. Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Not a problem buddy, you'll probably see them by the end of next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Sorry guys, I dropped out yesterday as the Captain was ringing the dinner bell. The car I want to run these tests on has been sitting since well I think May 2007. I'll try** and drag a battery ect out to her today. Cougar, I'll use a digital multimeter and test what I can coming from the CAS and going to the ig amp. Brian, my dwell / tach is an antique Matco unit must be even cheaper than yours as it has no inductive lead only positive and negative. When the leads are clamped together and it is set on "Dwell" a knob is used to zero the reading at full scale defelection. The inductive clamp you have will have to be clamped around one wire at a time as current going both ways will cancel itself in the loop. good read here on inductive Amprobes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amprobe I was thinking of trying the dwell setting to see the pulses. This test is probably all wet as the old points and can set ups did go closed (i.e. go to zero ohms) and these do not. ** we are expecting a winter rain event-- this may hamper my efforts as I hate winter rain. Chills me to the bone these daze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 13, 2008 Share Posted January 13, 2008 Thanks for your efforts Skip. I really appreciate it. I don't have my GL-10 anymore to do that test myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Cougar, I think you have asked me to try this same test three or four times for the benefit of others, and I have to confess that my understanding (grokking, if you will) of the subtler bits of distributor ignition systems is NOT the fullest.... I cannot explain it, but something fails to click in my head. However, it seems that many of us are plagued by intermittent or "sleeper" CAS codes in D-check mode, and I am very interested in the outcome of this issue as well... I have an odd, zero-throttle-to-full-throttle hesitation below 3K RPM that I cannot believe is just the natural cycling of the engine. My equipment is limited, but if any specific testing can be dictated to me (what wires, what to check for, when) I am more than willing to try it with a few different multimeters, from cheapo DVMs to 2 or 3 different brands of expensive DVMs... and possibly an analog meter as well. Dictate the testing, and I will do my best to replicate for data purposes. OP: Good luck, can't really help you directly. The FSM download was just a link I keep handy. It is absurdly difficult to find that link, until you have downloaded it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 Thanks for the offer Daeron. To help avoid confusion, instead of using this thread to work from on this I will start a new one called "Checking CAS Voltage" and let you know what to do. It is very easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Damn, 60 replies to this thread. It really is amazing how much help and advice you can get here. I'd still be working on my electrical problems if it weren't for everyone here. Anyway, Brian, I sent you a PM. I sent everything out to you today, hopefully you'll see it by the end of the week. We'll get that subie back in action! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk2valve Posted January 22, 2008 Author Share Posted January 22, 2008 Well guys.....thanks to all your help and the generosity of 94Loyale. the "Silver Ghost" runs again....it was the disty after all. I replaced the Ign. Amp. with one Bret sent me and nada...I then replaced the disty with the one he sent and Voila...ignition! Now I can finish with making it into a micro-camper for trips up to see my sons and grandkids in the Seattle area. Yahoo...! Brian in NM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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