twsnagel Posted January 9, 2008 Share Posted January 9, 2008 I've got a 1985 2WD GL wagon, 1.8L. I've got the bouncy-tach issue and suspect a failing distributor. Will the distributor from a 1982 GL 4x4 work for me? I've got a line on one in the for-sale forum. Thanks for any input! Here's the link to the post in the used forum. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=690475&postcount=19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 85 2WD GL...... there's a chance it is fuel injected.... what's it got? Anyway, the answer is no. EA81 distributors are driven off the single cam inside the case, and EA82 distributors are driven off the drivers side overhead cam. The drive gears are different as are the driven gears on the distributor shaft. IF your EA82 is carbed, you could change the drive gear from the EA81 distributor (assuming it's the Hitachi and not the ND unit), and modify the mounting ear to make it work. But it's not plug and play, nor is the modification particularly easy unless you have a drill press and proper holding apparatus for drilling through round stock. It would be better to rebush your existing unit. Although the EA82 units generally don't exhibit the same tendancy toward this sort of failure. Before wholesale replacement of expensive components I would be more than a little tempted to actually *test* the shaft for side play. At least the grab and wiggle test if not actualy putting a dial indicator on the thing... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 check your alternator, may have bad diode Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twsnagel Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 85 2WD GL...... there's a chance it is fuel injected.... what's it got? Anyway, the answer is no. <snip> Before wholesale replacement of expensive components I would be more than a little tempted to actually *test* the shaft for side play. At least the grab and wiggle test if not actualy putting a dial indicator on the thing... GD Good advice, I took the cap off last night and yanked back and forth on the shaft. There is NO play at all! I would have guessed that I should be able to feel some play if the disty is bad. This is the first car that I've had with a mechanical distributor. There was a little pitting on the rotor and corrosion on the contacts inside the cap. I did a little cleanup on them to shiny them up, and if anything, the engine is a little worse. I'm guessing the distributor cap and rotor need replacing. I went to autozone, and they had a number of different distributors listed for my make and year. The rotor I ended up with didn't even fit in the enclosure. Any easy way to get around this, and figure out which one fits my car? Or is it just guess and check? Also, how do I check my alternator diode? Thanks for all the help; you guys rock! Tyler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 By using a digital meter and checking the AC ripple across the battery with the engine running you should be able to see if there is excessive ripple caused by bad diodes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twsnagel Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 By using a digital meter and checking the AC ripple across the battery with the engine running you should be able to see if there is excessive ripple caused by bad diodes. OK - so just set my meter to AC and put it on the posts of the battery? What voltage of AC should I set it to? 12V-ish? And I'm guessing the closer to 0 that it reads the better? At what level would I read that the alternator is bad? I only get the bouncy tach thing sometimes - particularly when the engine is changing RPM. Other times it settles down and runs fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I would guess if you read more than 50 millivolts of AC you should check the diodes out for a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 "I went to autozone" and you didn't take the alternator with you?? I've even pulled it off infront of the store! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Well - a GOOD meter will properly read AC if it's present.... However, a CHEAP meter will often not function correctly for this test. I've experienced more than a few inexpensive meters that will show AC current when attached to a DC system. A decent Fluke won't do this, but the $2.99 special at Harbor Frieght likely will. Something to be aware of..... Better to take the alternator in for testing unless you have access to the proper diagnostic gear (a MM that will correctly perform tests for AC on DC systems is a start). GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now