Mugs Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 On my 96 Leg Wag L the AT oil temp light is flashing for about a 5-10 second time duration after inital start up of the engine. It doesn't mattter if it has sat all night in the cold or if it has been driving for two hours it still does it very time I statr the car. Signalling to me there is a "soft code" problem going on. I checked the fluid it is good, red, doesnt' smell burnt, and up to level. The car still drives the same and there seems to be nothing out of the ordinary. I then checked for codes on a "code checker (from local auto parts store) and it came back with no DTC detected. So Now what? Is it a sensor problem or is it leading up to something potenially fatal down the road... please give me an exuse to buy a Forester Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Useing a "code checker" at a local auto parts store, you probably only have access to the ECU codes, not the TCU codes. Far as I know the only scan tool that will comunicate with the TCU through the DTC, is the Select Monitor. Other wise you have to jump through some hoops to manualy pull the codes. Don't have that procedure handy at the moment, but I'm sure someone will chim in, and point you in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 You just have to connect the right stuff under the dash and she'll flash out her codes. Let me find that endwrench article.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Check this out: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/4EATPh1Win04.pdf and jump to page 13 and it tells you how to read the codes for 1995-98 Legacy. It's a little cryptic though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 There is a method for gaining access to those codes, you dont need a code monitor. You dont need to look at the OBDII codes, but its not a bad idea to get them read. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81497&highlight=transmission+trouble+codes What the light is telling you is that the last time the car was operated, there was some sort of electrical fault. That link will explain how to pull them. Do one quick test. Go out and drive in a tight circle. If the car can turn under its own power smoothly, its not a duty C failure. If it jerks, wont move, or needs a lot of throttle, you have a failed Duty C solenoid. If this is the case, and it just happened, you may get away with just replacing the solenoid. If you have been driving it like this for a while, you may need clutches too. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 I'm pretty sure these are the diagrams for that connector the article above talks about, I must've looked this up before one time: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Thats the one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Doing some testing before having to head out to work. First no problems turning. Next tried code retrival, but something is screwy. Grounding #5 does nothing, but grounding #6 does, and then the AT light does not flash but the ABS does. Next, (if I am reading the codes corectly) I have a 24, 27,12, (could be 20 because it is 2 longs) Here is the seqeunce of flashes 2long and 4 short (24) 2 longs (?), 2 longs and 7 short (27) according to the DTC page that would at least be a duty c. and maby a duty b (if it is 12). I think I will clear the codes and then see what happens. Let me explain what happend before the light started flashing. Aside from the numerous (at least 5 different times) ultimate drifting/360's/broadies...contests in snow covered parking lots things have been normal. Two days ago I was heading back from school and drove about 5 miles in 3rd gear (wasn't paying attention, speeds were 40mph or less) but didn't notice untill I started to get on the highay and was doing 60mph or so and the R's were up so I shifted into "D" and kepted going. That night (two nights ago) when heading out work upon starting the car is when I noticed the flashing. So whats up with all of that? Thanks for such a quick reply guys, I really, really apreciate it. Oh ya another thing (her goes my newbness) within trying to figure out this problem I keep reading about the FWD fuse and if it is in FWD or AWD or not, is this specific to some cars or all of my series. It sure would be nice to have a FWD option for the gas mileage aspects that extra 2mpg ads up in the gas bill. I sure miss my loyal for this reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 and then the AT light does not flash but the ABS doesHi, I think that's the wrong connector. There is a very similar if not identical connector for the ABS as well, but I think it is white (I think the AT one is black). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 I am testign the black one. And I gounded it out with the ground wire within the wire harness. There is also a yellow one (looks the same but larger) and then a gray connector that is screwed to my heater outlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Just for giggles, lets clear all the codes. Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to do a hard reset (as I am not sure if one minute is long enough). This will clear all the codes in the ecu, and tcu. It will also clear the memory of your driving habits (and sadly your radio presets). Drive the car and then if the light comes back again, lets test it. You did no damage by driving in third aside from burning gas. The FWD fuse does not save you gas unless you rip out the rear diff and driveshaft. The engine still has to move all that mass. The only way to reduce that mass is to remove it. So only use the FWD fuse if you have a flat tire, and if you have torque bind. Since your a newbee, always make sure your tires match, are worn equally, and properly inflated. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 Hi. Ok, if it is flashing the ABS light when grounding pin #6, that is the ABS diagnostic connector. The codes you are getting on the ABS light would be previous historical/stored codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 That is the correct connector. Seems like they changed which pin needs to be grounded from year to year. Check out this thread. No conclusion as to which was the proper pin in '97. You will need to find the specific info for your MY. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80437 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 OK so tonight I will disconnect the battery and clear all the codes, since I CAN'T FIND FUSE # 14 !!!!!!! DANG IT. Ah crap I hate diag/electrical it takes the passion out of cars. Which is the whole reason I quite being a mechanic any away, but that is a different story Porcupine wrote: Hi. Ok, if it is flashing the ABS light when grounding pin #6, that is the ABS diagnostic connector. The codes you are getting on the ABS light would be previous historical/stored codes. True this may be, but that is the only black connetor that fits the description of the TCU diag connector. Now as far as ABS codes well yes, I remember one morning after about 10 minutes of ultimate snow drifting (my 11 and 13 year old boys love er I mean I love it... gotta be that responsible role model ya know) the ABS light was going bonkers, it reset after a restart and never came on. Nipper wrote: The engine still has to move all that mass. The only way to reduce that mass is to remove it So I take it that it does not disengauge the internal transfer case and rear diff when doing so...makes sense...Not like the trusty Loyale...ya, ya two differnt beast, don;t fall out of your chair laughing LOL Also I found the FWD fuse holder/plug...what type of blade fuse do I use for that, incase I have to use it.... I.E. 10,20,30A Would like to have one in the glove box if need be. Nipper wrote:Since your a newbee, always make sure your tires match, are worn equally, and properly inflated See above commnets on me being and ex mechanic. But quite frankly I do feel dumb and like a newb just because of the questions I keep on asking. And this Chilton manual doesn't do didly. Whish I had acess to All Data or something like that. Thanks again for all your help guys, at least I feel as if I am getting some where. Porcupine and Nipper hope I didn't offend you all in any way. I can come off as brass and harsh at times and don't mean to. Just the way I am I guess. Thanks again for all the help. Will keep you all posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 You said grounding #5 does nothing. Did you just ground #5 turn the key on and wait for the light to start flashing? You still need to go through all the BS with the gear selector with #5 grounded. See the post that I linked to. The diagnostic flow chart is in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Porcupine and Nipper hope I didn't offend you all in any way. I can come off as brass and harsh at times and don't mean to. Just the way I am I guess. Thanks again for all the help. Will keep you all posted. Tis ok, i understand that the web is one dimensional and people dont sound like they really are. I have just learned when it comes to AWD and subarus, to not assume the tire thing and just blurt it out . nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I on the other hand am thoroughly po'd..haha just kidding. I really don't know; I'm just going from what the publications say. I would have to think though that if the ABS light is flashing out a code, that it is for the ABS and not the AT though.... maybe the pub is incorrect or something. Just to confirm what model/year soob are you working on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted January 11, 2008 Author Share Posted January 11, 2008 Ok no codes/light thus far after doing the 30min battery disconect last night. Have gone through 5 drive cicles thus far two of which were more than ten miles, the other 3 about ten miles. What a co-winky-dink? Thanks for all the help, will keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Ok no codes/light thus far after doing the 30min battery disconect last night. Have gone through 5 drive cicles thus far two of which were more than ten miles, the other 3 about ten miles. What a co-winky-dink? Thanks for all the help, will keep you posted. in case no one mentioned it previously, when the AT oil temp light flashes at start up, the fault occured the last time the car was driven. the fault could still exist, but it may not. there is some evidence that duty c solenoids can be intermittent when they start to go. mine is one of them/. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Would have been interesting to see what kinds of codes the TCU will throw after the spirited driving mentioned. Probably nothing was wrong, just that the TCU got a little confused:) I'm not suprized at the ABS codes afterward. Just running these cars with all four wheels off the ground illuminates the ABS light, and can set codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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