1988 Loyale spfi 1.8L - Dealer gave up

[allmtnbob]

This is a good one.

 

1st. the dealer after 2 1/2 weeks gave up. Thankfully they didn't charge me but for 1 hour labor.

 

The car will start perfectlly but will not stay running when cold. when its fully warm or left inside a heated garage it runs great.

 

The dealer checked; Fuel pump, replaced the coolant sensor (said), checked the master air flow, jumped the injector, tried another distributor before finally giving up.

 

So, I purchased a set of fatory manuels and performed the checks as outlined. I found a slew of codes most of which I belive apply to the work the dealer did. In the D check mode I found only the idle sensor flaged (42). Because I didn't want to drop the Main control under the dash I check out the idle/ trottle sensor first and found it to have no coninuity between contacts A & B. A local guy had a used part which checked out and was installed but It didn't solve the cold start problem.

 

What's next? Im considering checking out the Air control valve before droping the Main control and doing futher wireing harness inspections. I really don't think I have a wiring issue. this car is very clean and the wiggle test has had no ill effects.

 

More info; the car periodically has had a rough idle problem even when warm. when it would occur, the engine light goes on, I would increase the engine rpm, it would then recover and run smoothly and the engine light goes off. this has happened for several years now. Kinda a stop sign thing . Last winter at high elevation 5500' the car would run rough (shocks) even after warming (not fully) up untill I was at a lower elevation 600' and then it would run great. Now it runs rough at lower elevations while cold or in a cold atmostpher. I also notice when warm and hard aceleration a bit of a shock. but not always.

 

 

I'll take all suggestions. I need my snowmobile back asap.

 

Coach Bob

 

I posted this on another site and copied above, since then I have visually inspected the air control and it does move as outlined in the manuels. I checked it with a volt meter and had 11 volts. my memory slips me on the resistance. The last time I worked on it I got it to idle once warm. It idled at a very low rpm a shock would occur and then stalled. It will imeadiatley start. Before the trottle sensor was replace a rise and fall in the rpms was a consistant issue. I'm not sure if a throttle sensor slightly out of adjustment can affect the idle rpm setting. the throttle sensor setting currently checks out as outlined in the factory manuel.

[Cougar]

I think there is a cold start valve for this so that should be checked. Has a check for vacuum leaks been done?

[Gloyale]

Test you're CTS(coolant temp sensor)

 

I'd also investigate how much fuel pressure it's making.

 

Seems like when it dies, or anytime the CEL is on, you should get a code.

 

Use the clear memory proceedure(both connectors, run over 2000 rpm for 40 Secs) then drive until you have an issue, and then immediately use READ mode(black connectors) this will tell you what just happened a far as the ECU knows.

[ivantruckman]

check the ground strap , the one that goes to a bolt on the thermostat housing

i had a corroded terminal end, i cut the wire back . and crimped a new one on, it fixed my idle problem. the car would not idle when it was cold outside, like under 35 degrees or so.

[GeneralDisorder]

Clean the grounds, and keep running D-Check's and fixing what it reports.

 

CLEAN the IAC. Just soak it in carb cleaner overnight without the solenoid attached. And make sure the lines going to the IAC are clean and not blocked.

 

Your issue sounds IAC realated to me. The IAC doesn't really do much when warm, but is very important when cold.

 

GD