SuBrat84 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Other than "Don't do it, put in an EJ22." I already have all the parts and it's my mothers car. 1997 Legacy Outback EJ25 4EAT. I've done timing jobs and motor swaps and all of that before. I'm replacing: Drive Belts Timing Belt / Pulleys / Tensioner Radiator / Water Pump Oil Pan PCV Valve / Knock Sensor Air / Fuel / Oil filters Spark Plugs / Ignition Wires And I have an Overhaul Gasket Set to do the actual rebuild. 1. Does it seem like I forgot anything? 2. Is there anything I need to take care to not damage while I'm pulling this thing apart? Aside from the valve clearance thing with the timing. 3. Any specific pointers to make this job quicker/easier/more quality? 4. Can you turn up the heat in Nebraska? 5. I plan to do a write up with pictures and I will give credit where credit is due for any assistance. Thanks Guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Go to www.endwrench.com in the archives and read the engine section. Why is this engine being rebuilt? Did it have piston slap before? if it did, there is a fix for that, replacing two pistons (I think its the passenger side, don't remember). rear seperator plate needs to be replaced with the metal one. A valve job, just like if it blew a HG. Subaru Head Gaskets. Subaru thermostat and new radiator cap. Subaru wires Check the specs on the oil pump. If the housing is good, I would look into new gears. Never makes sense to build a new engine with an ancient oil pump. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Valve lash should be checked/adjusted after engine is reassembled and head bolts etc are torqued. Cleaning procedure for head gasket work: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7229 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Porcupine, do you know if this engine has bucket shims for valve adj.? While your in there, locktiteing the bolts on the back of the oil pump come to mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 If you are splitting the case, make sure you get the block o-ring for the water passage from subaru, and a tube of Anerobic sealant. (ToyataBond works good, but any Anerobic should work, just don't use RTV, it will leak eventually) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnwolftrack Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 OEM gasket sets, at least for the year I worked on ('98) do not automatically come with the valve cover gaskets or spark plug gaskets. Make sure you have those too. I'm not sure why a gasket set doesn't come with them, but a dealer speculated it was because there were like 3 different kinds of valve cover gaskets and they are not interchangable. If it hasn't been mentioned yet, don't radiator hoses and have some spare clamps handy just in case the originals don't hold tight anymore. It also wouldn't hurt to do the transmission front input shaft seal, and if it's an automatic, to do the goofy graphite c-clip shaped torque converter shaft seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 if Subaru has updated pistons to address the "piston slap" issue, which i think i've heard of, I'd use those with the engine apart. the goofy graphite c-clip shaped torque converter shaft seal. that's what it should be called! Subaru calls it a "ring seal". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Oh yeah I'm 99.9% that it's a blown head gasket... everything I listed above is genuine subaru parts.. so... A valve job.. is that just cleaning/adjusting them? Or is there more to it? Where is the oil pump? Is it something I can change after I do the job or is it inside the motor? I have a new thermostat and hoses too they're the only thing that's not subaru parts.. rear seperator plate needs to be replaced with the metal one. <-- is that something I need to buy? Can I live without doing that? Not splitting the case... How important is it to do the ring seal? Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Get yourself a haynes manual and get familair with it. A valve job is extreemly important. May as well stop now if your not doing one. Also you need the cylinder head machined to get a nise flat surface. Oil pump is checked before the timing belt is on, and while assemblying the engine. Its on the front of the engine. Thermostat is one of those thigs that have to be subaru part, porcupine will be more then happy to show you why . No you cant live with the plastic seperator plate, as it will be a source of a HUGE oil leak with time. Ring seal? nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Anyone need any pictures for this thread? some can be clicked to enlarge thermostat comparison metal oil separator upgrade oil pump is at the front of the engine between the block and crank sprocket in this pic it is behind the crank sprocket and has the red/orange colored crank angle sensor on it oil pump - can see the brown colored front crank seal in this pic Yes after removing the oil pump, make sure to loctite these screws on the rear. o-ring part # is different for certain engines. One appears to be just a normal o-ring, the other is a slightly flattened o-ring with a ridge on it. oil pump removed and o-ring location Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Thanks for the great pics! I knew the thermostats looked different.. is there some reason it makes some kind of difference other than they are 1 degree difference? So I need to buy this metal oil separator upgrade and should I just get a new oil pump then? I have a manual but it only goes up to 96.. I didn't think the manuals were out for 97 and up? Is it hard to explain what a valve job entails? I have to order parts because we're hundreds of miles from any Subaru dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Haynes manual is from 1990-1998. Yes you need the metal cover. Usually with the oil pump, if the housing checks out, all you need are the gears. This should be explained in the Haynes manual. Look at the two thermostats. The subaru is bigger for much more effecient coolant flow, and it has what is called a jiggle valve on it, to help get rid of air in the engine. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 So I'm getting ready to take this engine apart it's finally been above freezing yesterday and today!! I just want to ask if I still need to locktite the screws on the back of the oil pump because we went ahead and got a new one anyway.. or if I can just leave it since it is new? my mom really wants this car to last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 On a new oil pump, I usually clean the area around the screws with some solvent and apply loctite green (wicking type), and it will soak down into the threads. The new screws are in there pretty tite and you risk stripping them if you try to remove with just a screwdriver. Yes Haynes manuals are available for those model years, 90-99. If you bought your haynes before 99 it might say '90-98 or some earlier year? They have some sections where they just give their 'boilerplate' standard instructions which leaves some room to be desired. Valve lash adjustment, timing belt, and many other good articles are available free on http://www.endwrench.com (click archives, then enter search term ie valve timing etc) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Thanks for the great pics!Is it hard to explain what a valve job entails? A valve job consists of removing the valves grinding the valves seats (in the head) and the valve faces where they seat against the seats. Also new valves guides are installed. The valves are reinstalled with new seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share Posted January 28, 2008 I just got back from the local machine shop. He wants $150 per head to do the valve job and resurface. Does this seem... okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 $150 seems fine to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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