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I have to find my link and write to them but i wondered if they sell just a rebuilt short block with nothing else on it

 

I got screwed...bought a 96 OB with HG blown...seemed to run good...did the job...valve job...spent on allnew stuff, timing pulleys yada....within a month i hear a low end knock...knocks on start up for a second or two til the the oil pressure builds. Sickening after all that work. 136k but interior is like new...solid....damn!

wish i could find a wreck

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thanks skip

oh...and thank you for your contributions on here...I used your HG write-up as my step-by-step guide

I llove subarus and love learning about them

Altho...I think subaru sucks for this HG problem

and since driving them since 1980...altho they have become nicer...more powerful...more comfortable...those 1.6/1.8 D,GL,Loyales where the MOST reliable cars ever!!! not filled with all these friggin sensors and crap

And talk about easy to work on...nothing compares

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You are most welcome Mr. Gambino sir.

Hope it helps.

 

As for the HG article, I may have provided a link

I can not take credit for the write up.

Thanks for the comments.

 

 

I totally agree with everything else you say.

 

As for your current situation, I'm sorry to read about it.

 

There are other

avenues you could pursue that maybe

much cheaper than

a CCR inc short block.

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I have to find my link and write to them but i wondered if they sell just a rebuilt short block with nothing else on it

 

I got screwed...bought a 96 OB with HG blown...seemed to run good...did the job...valve job...spent on allnew stuff, timing pulleys yada....within a month i hear a low end knock...knocks on start up for a second or two til the the oil pressure builds. Sickening after all that work. 136k but interior is like new...solid....damn!

wish i could find a wreck

 

Goes away after oil pressure builds?? Doesn't sound like rod knock to me. Sounds like valve noise, which subaru are famous for.(search Tick of death)

 

My other guess is a light piston slap till it warms and expands a bit.

 

Are you having any other issue with the car? Gas Milage good? No smoking, sputtering? Compression tests good?

 

If there are no other problems than a noisy couple secs at startup, I would just run it. Seems silly to take it back apart.

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I wouldent go as far as saying "a knock is nothing, ignore it". I'm in the middle of a three month long ordeal with a dealership who managed to take a healthy engine (minus headgaskets and some minor oil leaks, the oil was always toppeed off and changed regularly) and make it seize after it developed a knock. Turns out the engine spun a bearing and the dealer is installing a new shortblock. The knocking started with just a bit of noise on the occasional startup for a second or two. This progressed within three days to a seized engine on the side of the highway :eek:

 

The dealer told me the same thing...the noise is nothing, ignore it. When it began to show itself on every start they said the same thing. Then they paid the tow bill...

 

Theres a good chance that your engine is fine, but I'd recomend finding out where the knock is coming from.

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I have to find my link and write to them but i wondered if they sell just a rebuilt short block with nothing else on it

 

I got screwed...bought a 96 OB with HG blown...seemed to run good...did the job...valve job...spent on allnew stuff, timing pulleys yada....within a month i hear a low end knock...knocks on start up for a second or two til the the oil pressure builds. Sickening after all that work. 136k but interior is like new...solid....damn!

wish i could find a wreck

 

Bought my BRAND NEW Ej25 (short block) for my 98 OBW 5sp, at the dealer (NOV 07) for:

 

Genuine Subaru Short Block = 1750.00

OEM OIL PUMP = 100.00

OEM WATER PUMP = 70.00

TOTAL = 1920 BUCKS

 

OIL PAN was 55.00

 

You will need to order one coolant plug on the bottom , it comes with all the others? I think it is the one next to the oil filter? It cost around 3 bucks.

Also will need a oil pan, mine was fine ( an easy external part to replace later if i had to) I just sand blasted the outside and painted it. No core charge so you keep your old block for parts or sell it to someone who wants to rebuild it?

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Goes away after oil pressure builds?? Doesn't sound like rod knock to me. Sounds like valve noise, which subaru are famous for.(search Tick of death)

 

My other guess is a light piston slap till it warms and expands a bit.

 

Are you having any other issue with the car? Gas Milage good? No smoking, sputtering? Compression tests good?

 

If there are no other problems than a noisy couple secs at startup, I would just run it. Seems silly to take it back apart.

 

Does this model have hydraulic lifters ?

You could just have a sticky / stuck lifter.

 

A while back I used a bardahl product meant to unstick a stuck lifter.

And after 3 successive applications it worked. ( GTI VR6 )

To my eye the stuff appeared to be not much more than a solution of graphite in varsal.

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His car is 12 years old with a 136K, why would you dump 2G's in a new motor? Knock is no big deal for an old car, I have had mine for the past 45K miles.

 

Yup, its up to him how much money he wants to spend:rolleyes:

I'm just letting him know how much a BRAND NEW SUBARU short block cost me , so he can compare it to a used short block. Not sure if he can get it for the same price as I did?

I wouldn't pay for a used block, used crank, and used pistons in a block that might have been missed treated (overheated) :eek: for the same price of a brand new one out of the box just 10 miles up the road, with no shipping charge, and Mfr Warrenty. Also a new one has a nice smooth surface to bolt up the head gaskets to (less likely to leak). I did look into buying a used one myself. But with shipping it was going to cost almost the same as new. So for me it was a no brainer.

However I can also say CCR was my 1st choice for rebuilt, I did call them a couple of times and talked with them. Great people, they have alot knowledge, and are eager to share it. :headbang:

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Sorry guys...I have not been around since I posted this thread.

I am pretty sure this sound is not a lifter (yes hydraulic). I wish it were, then I would feel comfortable driving it long distances.

 

It has gotten slightly worse over the 5 weeks I've had it on the road. Besides at start up....if I am going up a long slight grade...and it delays shifting up to 3rd and I'm doing like 45...if I ease off the gas the knocking/rattling is very pronounced. When idling and you rev it, it sounds like a lower end knock to me

 

$1750 isn't terribly bad for a rebuilt block when you figure I could get 100k more out of her...assuming the (gulp) auto tranny lasts...lol

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