mountaingoatgruff Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 i've given up on my carb and, for better or for worse, i've resolved to do an SPFI conversion on my 84 hatch. i've got a complete 91 loyale w/ EA82, 5MT, SPFI, and a might-as-well-have-been-rolled body to pull parts from. i've read the writeup General D provided the link for and will be referencing the pdf's linked to by that page. my question before getting neck deep is whether i can use the ECU, dist, etc. off the 91 loyale for my conversion. is this too late of an ECU or will i have to add in a bunch of sensors, switches, whatever to make it work without giving codes all the time? i've pretty much bought the parts already and after rechecking GD's writeup i'm worried if i went too late model on the parts (its the only EA82 car i found in any wrecking yard in this county!!! i found an EA81 car that was crushed just THIS MORNING and pulled the ONLY good parts left off of it - the front sidemarker lights.) i don't want to monkey this thing or in other words half-*@# it. i know there's a lot of detailed work involved and that's okay so give it to me straight. also any tips or new info would be much appreciated! i can't wait to get this thing out terrorizing the pavement pounding luxury suv's again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zstalker Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 here's something I made that helped me a lot. It's the same pin chart from GD's build page, but I put the wire colors by the connectors...really helped me a lot tracing wires. (click for the full-size) I've got mine running and just about on the road and there are a number of others here who have finished this swap, so SEARCH FIRST (most of your questions have already been answered, you just have to find them), then ask anything else you need... ~Erik~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Only thing I haven't added to my page is more detail on the wiring (it's all there, I would just like to lay it out better and in a bit more detail about each circuit), and the problems/solutions in reference to using the stock carburated fuel tank. The stock fuel tank doesn't contain baffles to prevent the sloshing of fuel. This is an issue for the SPFI. When the fuel level gets down around 1/4 tank the fuel can slosh away from the pickup and the pump will almost instantly depressurize the injector. Thus the engine sputters and dies out. Either a fuel tank from a fuel injected EA81 (Turbo wagon, coupe or Brat) needs to be retrofit (none of them fit a Hatch though) or a surge tank needs to be added. I made one from some ideas I found searching around on the internet. I used a filter housing for an under-sink water filter from home depot and modified it to fit my needs. The idea is to have a long, thin cylinder (8" deep x 3" wide or so works) and run the fuel into it from the tank using the stock carb fuel pump. Then from this tank you pump to the injectors. I haven't installed it yet, but the principle is well documented, and it's just a matter of building it to suit your needs. Likely the location/design of the thing wouldn't be the same in my Brat as a Hatch anyway. But just so you know, and are thinking about it. It's not something that has to be done right away - you can drive fine without it but be aware you may not be able to use the last 1/4 of your tank reliably without it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Oh, and yes the Loyale parts you got are fine. Everything will work fine but you may want to eventually source a "black" ECU from a later 80's GL so you don't have to deal with the clutch pedal switch. You will still have to do something about the neutral switch. Which reminds me that I need to update my page with my "new" fix for that. Instead of using the pedal switch, I actually built a switch that works off the linkage. It's not something that's neccesary, but I was bored one day I guess. If my camera weren't broken, I would take pics of it GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 is there any benefit to using a 91 ECU over a late 80's one? i know that a lot of manufacturers are constantly ironing out known issues and what not, especially with electronics. i don't mind going throught the extra work of permanently rigging these additional switches if there's any tangible benefit and if help and parts are readily available. also i was wondering about another couple of related things. i'm not too familiar with EA82 cars or 4wd 5MT's but i'd eventually like to make that swap also. my donor loyale has a pushbutton 4wd 5MT, are these D/R or did subaru even make 5MT's with D/R? would the loyale's ECU be compatible with a D/R 5MT or would i be better off with a late 80's GL ECU for that reason too? also, did subaru make a lever actuated D/R 5MT and could i use that trans instead of a button one (i prefer mechanical shift over electric even if its more work). i'm not trying to build a hotrod or 4wd tank, i just want the highest mileage and reliability possible with this savage little car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 is there any benefit to using a 91 ECU over a late 80's one? i know that a lot of manufacturers are constantly ironing out known issues and what not, especially with electronics. i don't mind going throught the extra work of permanently rigging these additional switches if there's any tangible benefit and if help and parts are readily available. also i was wondering about another couple of related things. i'm not too familiar with EA82 cars or 4wd 5MT's but i'd eventually like to make that swap also. my donor loyale has a pushbutton 4wd 5MT, are these D/R or did subaru even make 5MT's with D/R? would the loyale's ECU be compatible with a D/R 5MT or would i be better off with a late 80's GL ECU for that reason too? also, did subaru make a lever actuated D/R 5MT and could i use that trans instead of a button one (i prefer mechanical shift over electric even if its more work). i'm not trying to build a hotrod or 4wd tank, i just want the highest mileage and reliability possible with this savage little car. The ECUs will all run the car engine the same. The following applies to all EA82 Part Time trannys. All S/R 4wd 5spds are pushbutton All D/R 4wd 5spds are lever activated All Automatics Are S/R and pushbutton activated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 20, 2008 Author Share Posted January 20, 2008 thanks, Gloyale. thats kind what i thought but reading so many different people's posts with so many different names and references gets confusing. so then, as far as this 91 loyale's ECU is concerned, are the S/R and the D/R compatible? does the D/R have the neutral switch location? the loyale has a S/R but if i do a 5speed swap i'd like to put in a D/R, of course. now this part might seem off the wall or just plain dumb, but i've been trying to think of an easy cheap way of getting around rigging up clutch and neutral switches until i do a tranny swap. what purpose do the neutral and clutch switches serve? how does their input affect the ECU and it's overall behavior? could i simply use toggle switches as temporary substitutes and switch them on/off as i accellerate/cruise/coast or does the ECU need constant accurate representations of the state of my trans & clutch? if i can get this SPFI conversion done in the next month, i'll probably do the tranny swap in another six months or so after that. what would it do to my ECU and car in general to leave these switches disconnected that long? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 is there any benefit to using a 91 ECU over a late 80's one? i know that a lot of manufacturers are constantly ironing out known issues and what not, especially with electronics. i don't mind going throught the extra work of permanently rigging these additional switches if there's any tangible benefit and if help and parts are readily available. Absolutely zero difference as far as I can tell. They run virtually the same. also i was wondering about another couple of related things. i'm not too familiar with EA82 cars or 4wd 5MT's but i'd eventually like to make that swap also. my donor loyale has a pushbutton 4wd 5MT, are these D/R or did subaru even make 5MT's with D/R? Your's is not, but all 4WD GL non-turbo EA82's had them. DL's had the push button, and the turbo's had the push button, the 4WD D/R with the higher low (86 RX's), the FT4WD with diff lock, or the FT4WD D/R (again with higher low) and diff lock (87 to 89 RX's). Loyale's had the push button only. After 89 the D/R was discontinued in the US. If you want one, you need to look for an 88 or 89 as those are sure to have the neutral switch. 85 through 87 were mostly carbed and did not come with the switch - before you ask, no it's not possible to add it. (unless you do some weird fabrication with the linkages like I did). But the stock 88+ switch won't work without major modification to the tranny. would the loyale's ECU be compatible with a D/R 5MT or would i be better off with a late 80's GL ECU for that reason too? The tranny's are the same with regard to their input to the ECU from 88 on. It's the clutch pedal switch that the GL's don't have that makes their ECU nicer for this swap. You have two switches that the Loyale needs - the neutral switch, and the clutch switch. If you have an EA81 tranny or an EA82 tranny that doesn't have the neutral switch then you can adapt the clutch switch from a cruise control equipped EA81 to work as the neutral switch - that's fine for the GL ECU, but the Loyale ECU is still looking for the clutch switch as well.... which you ostensibly used to fool the neutral switch circuit - so now what? See the problem? That's why I don't use those ECU's. You could if you fabbed a switch on the linkage like I did, but the clutch switch works opposite of the CC one, so you might need a whole pedal assembly from an EA82..... basically just dive in and worry about this later as none of this will prevent you from starting or driving the car. You just want to fix it eventually as it can make diagnostics a pain if it's throwing codes for this stuff. also, did subaru make a lever actuated D/R 5MT and could i use that trans instead of a button one (i prefer mechanical shift over electric even if its more work). i'm not trying to build a hotrod or 4wd tank, i just want the highest mileage and reliability possible with this savage little car. Actually the push button trannys are quite reliable all things considered. But they are single range. Pay attention now - here it comes...... ALL dual range tranny's are lever action. But the one you want will come from an 88 or 89 as it will be fully compatible with the neutral switch for the SPFI. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 21, 2008 Share Posted January 21, 2008 now this part might seem off the wall or just plain dumb, but i've been trying to think of an easy cheap way of getting around rigging up clutch and neutral switches until i do a tranny swap. what purpose do the neutral and clutch switches serve? how does their input affect the ECU and it's overall behavior? could i simply use toggle switches as temporary substitutes and switch them on/off as i accellerate/cruise/coast or does the ECU need constant accurate representations of the state of my trans & clutch? if i can get this SPFI conversion done in the next month, i'll probably do the tranny swap in another six months or so after that. what would it do to my ECU and car in general to leave these switches disconnected that long? It won't hurt anything other than annoy you with the CEL. The main purpose behind the switches is telling the ECU how to react when the vehicle is rolling vs. stopped. If the car is rolling and IN gear then the ECU can use this information along with the information from the TPS to determine fuel trim. In fact if the car is coasting down a hill with no throttle (but in gear) the ECU will actually shut off the injector. Closed throttle coasting uses NO fuel this way (unlike a carb). But it will not adversely effect your engine, mileage, or emissions. The point of hooking them up (which I covered in my write up) is that the ECU may not properly report diagnostic codes if other codes are present. Certain parts of the diagnostic tests run in D-Check and even possibly in U-Check may be skipped based on codes that are already stored. We don't know or have any way to look at the source code for these ECU's so to be SAFE I reccomend that all signals be properly hooked up. Besides - having a functional CEL that you aren't ignoreing because you *think* you know what code it's refering to is the smart, and responsible way to travel. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 21, 2008 Author Share Posted January 21, 2008 i appreciate the way you guys put up with redundant questions from subie nubies. i guess between the fact that i sold my wife's car for this hatch and she's pretty upset a month later with no wheels (hold the noose folks - its not like i'm not selling my truck to get her another car! i just gotta have this hatch going first cuz i commute), i'm double what i expected to be into this thing cash wise, and i don't trust those jy greasemonkeys to pull the parts correctly or completely, i'm just really nervous about this thing. then there's the whole smog factor, and on and on. i'll feel a lot better when i hear that hatch rumbling again! thanks again for the help, the real questions will come soon, i'm picking up the parts tomorrow after work and then the games begin!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 i went to the salvage yard to get my parts and of course they failed to get everything on the list. i started looking the car over and i had to pull the dist, clutch swich and neutral switch. i started working on the neutral swich and noticed there's a couple electric componenets on the tranny. it's a pushbutton 4wd 5speed in a 91 loyale. where is the neutral switch, what are the other electronic components on the tranny housing, and do i need them? GD's writeup says the neutral switch has a black oval connector. it may be that they're all balck with filth, but i can't tell them apart! if somone could help me sort this out i'd appreciate it. the wreckers wanna send the car to the crusher with a good ea82, 5speed, and all good running gear asap. bastards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 what are the other electronic components on the tranny housing, and do i need them? Well - they aren't electronic - just switches. And most of them are identical. GD's writeup says the neutral switch has a black oval connector. it may be that they're all balck with filth, but i can't tell them apart! if somone could help me sort this out i'd appreciate it. I'm not sure why you are pulling these? You will be using the switches (or lack of) from the transmission you put in the vehicle. If you are using the 4 speed then the switches aren't going to work with it (most likely) anyway. That's the reason for the replacement of the switch with a pedal activated neutral switch. So you don't have to use any transmission mounted switches. The other switches are for the backup lights, and the 4WD indicator on the dash. On the EA81's the switch activates the Low range light, and on the EA82's it activates the 4WD light and the Low is on the linkage. At least that's how I remember it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 I'm using the ecu from a 91 loyale. Doesn't this ecu require a clutch switch AND a neutral switch? I think there were two switches on the drivers side of the of the loyales trans. I grabbed the one in the front. If it's the same as the backup light switch it doesn't matter which one I grabbed but I'll still have to rig it up in addition to the clutch pedal switch for my 91 silver box ecu, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 I'm using the ecu from a 91 loyale. Doesn't this ecu require a clutch switch AND a neutral switch? I think there were two switches on the drivers side of the of the loyales trans. I grabbed the one in the front. If it's the same as the backup light switch it doesn't matter which one I grabbed but I'll still have to rig it up in addition to the clutch pedal switch for my 91 silver box ecu, right? Yes, but just ask around on the board for a late 80's black ECU. I can get them all day long around here. And someone probably has on laying around. The way the Loyale "Clutch Switch" works would pretty much require you swap the pedal assembly from the EA82 as the switch works opposite of the CC switch I've used for the neutral switch. And if you are going to do that, then you can just use the CC switch for the neutral, and the clutch switch as normal. Also it will run fine without either of them - so worry about it later. Just don't hookup the ECS lamp when you go in for testing. I know there's another member in CA that did this swap - you might search for his thread about how he registered it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 you're right, GD. since they both work the same its more logical to choose the ecu that requires less input. i have the clutch pedal, cable, and the switch from above the pedal that looks like the one pictured in your writeup. i'm not usually so hairbrained but i'm used to simple old mopars and besides that i'm a bit spread thin right now so please bear with me. the switch i have from above the pedal is the clutch switch, right? the neutral switch is located on the tranny housing and i don't have that (i can go back for it if i have to, but i'd have to do it this weekend which is why i want to figure this out sooner than later). where is the cruise control switch located on a 91 loyale? i noticed there were two switches that looked just like the clutch switch (a big gold bolt w/ 2 nuts) above the brake pedal. i took both of those and i was wondering if i could use one to sub for my neutral switch instead of a cc switch (or is one the cc kill switch for the loyale setup?). as far as getting a black ecu, how much should i expect to pay for one? also, would you be willing to send me one? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 the switch i have from above the pedal is the clutch switch, right? Yes - but there's no provision for mounting it to the EA81 pedal assembly. I've never tried it, but you could probably more or less bolt in an EA82 pedal assembly - this would have the added benefit of gaining the superior EA82 style clutch cable. the neutral switch is located on the tranny housing and i don't have that (i can go back for it if i have to, but i'd have to do it this weekend which is why i want to figure this out sooner than later). All the tranny switches are the same - backup lights, 4WD indicator, and neutral switch. They are just threaded into the tranny case. No need to get THAT one as many more are availible. Plus it simply won't work on the 4 speed in your hatch. where is the cruise control switch located on a 91 loyale? i noticed there were two switches that looked just like the clutch switch (a big gold bolt w/ 2 nuts) above the brake pedal. i took both of those and i was wondering if i could use one to sub for my neutral switch instead of a cc switch (or is one the cc kill switch for the loyale setup?). Yes - it's the gold bolt looking thing. That's the CC switch - they are probably the same for EA81 and EA82. There should be a "stop bolt" in your existing pedal assembly that you remove and install the "switch stop bolt" instead. as far as getting a black ecu, how much should i expect to pay for one? also, would you be willing to send me one? thanks I don't have one at present, and I'm not sure when I'll get to the junk yard next. Probably a couple weeks out as I'm swamped with all manner of things right now. Not the least of which is a half-torn-apart Ford Contour in my driveway that is being a serious thorn in my side right now. $25 should be about the going rate - they aren't rare. My yards will probably charge closer to $30 or $35 but if I had one from a parts car I would part with it for $25. Ask in the wanted forum - someone's got one. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 i think i'm about done with preparing the harness, but i had a couple ?'s. first - can i simply cut and terminate the wires for the auto trans parking switch since i have a stick and the a/c signal even though my car has a/c? i'll assume for now that the a/c signal tells the ecu when the compressor clutch is engaged and the ecu then adjusts engine control parameters to compensate for the load on the belt. is there a wire i can tap in my ea81 a/c system to use for this signal so my idle stays legit while i'm using a/c? second - there's a few plugs i noticed are tied into my spfi wiring that i didn't see in the pics on the spfi conversion writeup. there's a white one, a black one, and a golden one. they seemed like they just tapped into lines that didn't need any input or output besides what they already have so i cut them off and planned on redoing the splices where they tapped in. are they diagnostic ports or power distribution or something? i'm okay having cut them out right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 i think i'm about done with preparing the harness, but i had a couple ?'s. first - can i simply cut and terminate the wires for the auto trans parking switch since i have a stick and the a/c signal even though my car has a/c? i'll assume for now that the a/c signal tells the ecu when the compressor clutch is engaged and the ecu then adjusts engine control parameters to compensate for the load on the belt. is there a wire i can tap in my ea81 a/c system to use for this signal so my idle stays legit while i'm using a/c? Never tried to hookup to an EA81 with AC.... there's an idle up solenoid on the carb throttle. You may have to investigate some wireing diagrams on that one as I've never had to work out how that would be done. It's probably a ground signal wire so if you can find a ground signaled relay for the AC system that would be ideal. For the park switch just punch the pins out of the ECU connectors. There's little "sticks" that pull out and then the wire and it's pin pop out of the connector. second - there's a few plugs i noticed are tied into my spfi wiring that i didn't see in the pics on the spfi conversion writeup. there's a white one, a black one, and a golden one. they seemed like they just tapped into lines that didn't need any input or output besides what they already have so i cut them off and planned on redoing the splices where they tapped in. are they diagnostic ports or power distribution or something? i'm okay having cut them out right? White and black..... possibly the EGR temp sensor that is specific to CA?? The gold one - did it have like 12 pins or something? That sounds like the dealer diagnostic port. I usually leave it, but it's pretty much useless at this point as I don't think any dealers have the machines needed to read from them anymore. It's probably a very primitive OBD-I like system similar to the early EJ's. But largely useless unless someone wants to go write an interface tool for a laptop (someone actually has for the early EJ22's), but that's also unlikely. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 i'll look into the a/c signal later on once everything else is kosher and if i can find something that works i'll put it in a post for future reference. i removed the white and black plugs, but actually left the gold one for some reason, i guess it'll just stay in there since it's not going to hurt anything. my donor loyale is originally a colorado car, which kinda has me scared about emissions test time. i figure if it comes down to it i'll use the white camping fuel trick or whatever works. do they make different temp range spark plugs for these cars (as in some with lower temps)? i'm leaving cali for washington next year or the year after so its not a big deal to me as long as i can score a pass once or twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 I wouldn't think you would have too much problem - the SPFI is far more effecient than the carb that was on it. The EGR temp sensor is just there to make sure the EGR is working - that's the only difference between CA and 49 states SPFI. That sensor doesn't actually effect emissions - just tells you if the EGR is working or not. One thing I would sugest - REPLACE the cat. A new one installed after the original will be FAR more effecient and you can get them off ebay for dirt cheap. Just weld it in place in the mid-pipe where the resonator is now. It will blow ultra-clean with a brand new cat that has the benefit of 20 years of development in converter technology. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 i'm a step ahead of you with the cat, its an oversized universal with reducers all welded in already. i also got a new oxygen sensor, a new pcv, and i'll change my oil the day i take it in. is ecu pin 36 "EGR monitor" the hookup for the EGR temp sensor? what is the "49 state/cal identification" wire on pin 33 of the ecu? besides making me fail smog, what would removing the EGR do to my ea81 - would it improve performance? i made a block off plate for the EGR on my 65 dodge van's 85 318 and you wouldn't believe the difference it made - you wouldn't have known that V8 was a 2bbl by driving it! also, would porting the intake a bit - just cleaning up the casting defects and what not - be noticeable or would this engine only notice it if i do the heads too? i figure i'll clean up the intake along each head's port where that ridge is and maybe spend a few minutes with the dremel smoothing out the inner walls of the intake. at 73 horses, anything's got to help! and one more thing for now - can i remove the pipe that runs along the bottom back of the intake or is it one of those pressed in types that will never seal again? my dad does powdercoating so naturally my top end is gonna be "candy shimmering blue" and i'm thinking it would be better to remove that pipe before curing the powder @ 400* for a half hour, unless of course its pressed then i'll have to wonder if i can get away with powdering the pipe too. i don't think the aluminum will split - i just think grease will come out as the metal cooks and it'll ruin the finish. i didn't want to mess with it before asking if anyone knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 i'm a step ahead of you with the cat, its an oversized universal with reducers all welded in already. i also got a new oxygen sensor, a new pcv, and i'll change my oil the day i take it in. is ecu pin 36 "EGR monitor" the hookup for the EGR temp sensor? what is the "49 state/cal identification" wire on pin 33 of the ecu? . Depending on it's ground state it tells the ECU if it should be looking for the EGR temp sensor or not. besides making me fail smog, what would removing the EGR do to my ea81 - would it improve performance? i made a block off plate for the EGR on my 65 dodge van's 85 318 and you wouldn't believe the difference it made - you wouldn't have known that V8 was a 2bbl by driving it! Won't notice it at all. EGR makes so little difference to these engines you might as well leave it since you have to have it working anyway. also, would porting the intake a bit - just cleaning up the casting defects and what not - be noticeable or would this engine only notice it if i do the heads too? i figure i'll clean up the intake along each head's port where that ridge is and maybe spend a few minutes with the dremel smoothing out the inner walls of the intake. at 73 horses, anything's got to help! I doubt you'll notice anything unless you port the heads, change the cam, and increase your compression. Remember the SPFI intake already flows 90 HP worth on the same displacement. In fact I wouldn't touch it unless you have access to a flow bench - changes to the turbulence of the flow are often detrimental unless you can flow test it before and after to get it just right. and one more thing for now - can i remove the pipe that runs along the bottom back of the intake or is it one of those pressed in types that will never seal again? my dad does powdercoating so naturally my top end is gonna be "candy shimmering blue" and i'm thinking it would be better to remove that pipe before curing the powder @ 400* for a half hour, unless of course its pressed then i'll have to wonder if i can get away with powdering the pipe too. i don't think the aluminum will split - i just think grease will come out as the metal cooks and it'll ruin the finish. i didn't want to mess with it before asking if anyone knows. That's the heater core return pipe yes? I wouldn't touch it as it's likely a press fit and is probably glued in with something like a locktite product.... at least that would be my assumption. I wouldn't powder coat it - a couple coats of hi-temp epoxy would do the job. It's also a pain to remove the TB as you will certainly have to replace the special o-ring and gasket under it - it's a heated TB so there's a coolant passage in there. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 i'm not planning on doing anything to the EGR, good law abiding citizen that i am. and as far as porting the intake, i just wanted to clean off casting imperfections and polish it up in there. i don't think i'll be powdercoating for lack of time as much as anything else - i'm going from days to graveyard as of monday so this weekend is valuable adjusting time. my TB looks like a chocolate cake gone wrong so i'm tearing it down and dunking it in chemdip. i'll still bead blast the intake and then i guess i'll go the engine epoxy route. should be interesting finding places to hook all these vacuum lines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 my TB looks like a chocolate cake gone wrong so i'm tearing it down and dunking it in chemdip. Be careful with it - you don't want to lose the white paint marks on the throttle plate stop bolt - and DO NOT touch that adjustment. It's set at the factory and there is NOT a procedure to reset it. Thus the white paint..... Also carefully remove and then reset the TPS using a MM. Verify it's smooth operation as well. There's things on there I wouldn't chem dip - this isn't a carburetor and shouldn't be treated as such. Remove the injector and the pressure regulator as well - neither should be subjected to solvents of that ferocity. i'll still bead blast the intake and then i guess i'll go the engine epoxy route. should be interesting finding places to hook all these vacuum lines... Don't media blast the mating surfaces - you'll tear them up and they already have enough tendancy to not seal.... OEM only on the manifold gaskets BTW - unless you enjoy replacing them every couple months . The difference in OEM vs. aftermarket is staggering for those. Equal and proper torque is also very important - 12 ft/lbs only. And while you are at the dealer you'll need the TB o-ring/gasket kit. The o-ring under the TB is special and reusing them generally isn't possible. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 i went to the dealership after work today and ordered all my gaskets - they'll get here on wed. just for laughs i looked up how much a nos rubber plenum is (the thing that says "subaru f.i.") - $540.00!! not much of a laugh there my white paint is gone but i knew better than to touch the stop bolt. i'm not even going to dip the lower section with the throttle shaft cuz i'm not sure about the bushings/bearings/whatever they may be on the shaft. i'll just clean the housing with spray cleaner. i did dip the top half though. of course i pulled off everything that's not metal and i even backed the plugs out. what's the screw behind the iac valve that looks like a mixture screw for? is it an idle mixture for a fuel passage into the iac port? mine took 2/3 of a turn to seat it so i recorded that and backed it out too. really all i dipped was the injector cap, upper half, screws/washers, and the hardware on the end of the throttle shaft. should look perty once i get it together again. my dad (a mechanic or 30+ years) usually laughs when he sees how anal retentive i get about these types of things, the rest of the time he stands there giving me confused looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now