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SPFI Conversion ?'s


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The Cali board member that did the swap is SuperNova.

 

There are two ways to get this conversion to pass smog.

 

The easiest if just to take it to a smog station and have them smog it. If the hatch hasn't been tagged as a Gross poluter, you might get away with a smog tech who doesn't know anything about Subarus and test it as is. If it is a gross poluter and you have to take it to a test only station, you might has trouble explaining why you don't have a carb any more.

 

If that is the case you will need to contact a California Air Resources Board (CARB) and arrange for a CARB referee to inspect your car. Tell the operator that you did and engine change and you need to get it inspected. The CARB ref will inspect the hatch as if it were a 91 Loyale. Basically, they want everything that was related to emissions from the 1991 put into the 84 hatch. This means that the CEL light will have to operation so you have to solve the clutch switch neutral switch issue.

 

Once they ok the swap, you will get a new sticker that the regular smog techs can scan that will tell them it's a 1984 CAR w/a 1991 engine.

 

That was the process that I had to go through with EJing my BRAT.

 

You mentioned porting out the intake. If you have time or have taken the engine apart, the heads can benefit from a lot of smoothing. I just ported an old set of EA81 heads this morning and I was really surprised at how much room there was for improvement.

 

Will post pictures on a seperate thread.

 

what area are you located in? Give me a PM if you need help?

 

BW

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  GeneralDisorder said:
US.

 

The tranny's are the same with regard to their input to the ECU from 88 on. It's the clutch pedal switch that the GL's don't have that makes their ECU nicer

 

 

My 87 FM shows a clutch switch and neutral switch? 88-89 do not?

 

For Automatics, 87 uses the same neutral and p(Clutch) signals. But in 88+ additionally has In gear signal?

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when i got the car, it ran okay with obvious issues, most notably the carb. it would barely start cold after tons of pumping and cranking, wouldn't idle correctly even warm, the poor car could barely pull it's own weight, and by comparing it's consumption to my truck's which has the nifty digital mileage display (not that i really trust it) the hatch was getting around 10miles/gal. it needed a tuneup like nobodys business, the oil was toast, and it leaked in ten places but the car passed smog like that with no repairs but a new cat - barely, but it passed. by the time i take it in again i'll have performed the spfi conversion (including rebuilding the throttle body and testing each sensor according to fsm procedures. so far they're all good with a couple to go), given it new cap/rotor/wires/plugs, installed a less restrictive conical air filter, pulled oil pan to replace gasket and de-gunk, adjusted valve lash (yes, its solid lifters. i don't know if an 84 should be but this one is), and anything else i can think of and manage to do while waiting for parts. if it doesn't pass it will be cuz the doof testing wants to give me a hard time for having spfi (in which case i'll be consulting you, s'ko, for advice) or cuz i left a 1/2" impact wrench in the #3 cylinder.:rolleyes: it should be breathing soooo much cleaner after all these repairs/mods that it would be ridiculous for it to fail an emissions test. this is california though...

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i went to find the wires i need to tap into from my ignition switch and i'm not sure which one to use. in the writup GD says (referring to the pink 6pin connector) to disconnect the plugs, find the constant hot on the body side, then find the pin that has continuity with the constant hot with this switch in the "on" position to tap for the ignition relay control. next, find the start signal wire by finding the pin that has continuity with the constant hot pin only with the switch in "start," and run that wire to the ECU. my question is regarding the ignition relay control wire. my connetor has two pins that have continuity with the constant hot while the switch is in "on." one also has continuity while the switch is in "start" while the other does not. i want to tap into the wire that has continuity in "on" AND "start" for my ignition relay control, correct?

 

also, Gloyale has an ECU from an '87 2wd auto car and i need to know if i can use this with my 4wd 4speed car and '92 spfi parts.

 

if anyone has a black ECU out of a 4wd manual car, i know a little hatchback that would be eternally grateful.

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  mountaingoatgruff said:
one also has continuity while the switch is in "start" while the other does not. i want to tap into the wire that has continuity in "on" AND "start" for my ignition relay control, correct?.

 

Yes - that would be correct. The ignition relay will need power in crank and run.

 

  mountaingoatgruff said:

also, Gloyale has an ECU from an '87 2wd auto car and i need to know if i can use this with my 4wd 4speed car and '92 spfi parts.

 

It will work, but it may complain about the park switch. I haven't extensively tried out the auto ECU's. I have a Loyale auto that I've swapped in for testing and it ran. But I didn't test it long enough to see about the park switch.

 

GD

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  GeneralDisorder said:

It will work, but it may complain about the park switch. I haven't extensively tried out the auto ECU's. I have a Loyale auto that I've swapped in for testing and it ran. But I didn't test it long enough to see about the park switch.

 

Pinouts show P switch to be same pins and function a clutch switch. Back to square one.

 

Sorry mountaingoat, I guess I should've looked into it a bit more, seems an auto ECU will still want both signals (and some even want to know when the car i in "drive")

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