Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

So today while driving my car I got these 2 codes after pulling from a stop. P0302 and P0304. #2 and #4 missfire. About a month ago I was getting P0301, but was fixed with changing a valve. Do you think the valves might need changing on #2 and #4 as well? As of rite now there is no shaking at idle, like it was with P0301.

 

Also note that today was really cold out Probly dipping into the negatives during the night and about 5 degrees when it happend and the car was still just warming up. It happened inbetween being cold and coming up to temp. I have noticed it runs the "roughest" at idle when its just about up to temp. But once warm runs smooth.

 

1997 2.5 outback 216500 miles 4eat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was a valve job dont at the time?

 

how old are the plugs and ignition wires?

Were the vlaves adjusted when the valve was changed?

 

nipper

 

plugs/wires/coil/battery are all basicly new or have been checked and are fine. I do not know if the valves were adjusted but i dont believe they were. Just that the one on cyl 1 was changed becasue it was tight. I just cleared the codes so ill keep you posted. I am hoping it is just the cold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi. What brand spark plugs and what brand spark plug wires were used?
yes indeed - if you didn't use Subaru or Magnecor ignition wires, that could easily be your problem. the EJ engines are very funny like this.

 

so you had the head pulled and valve actually replaced for that other one? what exactly was wrong with it again "it was tight"? i'm not sure what that means. who diagnosed/fixed it? bizarre they'd pull a 200,000 mile head and not do a valve job while it's off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

plugs/wires/coil/battery are all basicly new or have been checked and are fine. I do not know if the valves were adjusted but i dont believe they were. Just that the one on cyl 1 was changed becasue it was tight. I just cleared the codes so ill keep you posted. I am hoping it is just the cold.

 

Valve adjustment can cause this code too. Or lack of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes indeed - if you didn't use Subaru or Magnecor ignition wires, that could easily be your problem. the EJ engines are very funny like this.

 

so you had the head pulled and valve actually replaced for that other one? what exactly was wrong with it again "it was tight"? i'm not sure what that means. who diagnosed/fixed it? bizarre they'd pull a 200,000 mile head and not do a valve job while it's off?

Everything is OEM. All they told me was it was a front exhaust valve on cyl 1 that was tight and they replaced it. They thought it was the fuel injector but then realized it was not (I told them it problly wasnt) The Valve was done at Van Bortel. P0301 has not come back, car was running much better. Now this morning it threw the P0302/P0304. I cleared it and it hasnt come back on yet today.

 

PS: how much does a Valve adjustment cost (how long does it take/ how many parts) This car would not have had it since the HG problem around 100k...now its nearing 217k.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how much does a Valve adjustment cost (how long does it take/ how many parts)
Not sure about cost, but it is a bucket&shim setup. So probably valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals and valve cover bolt washers (valve cover gasket kit), plus however long it takes them to do it. The shim kit I think has like 94 shim sizes.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

UPDATE:

 

ok so its that time of year again. The weather is cold and my car is shaking at ideal and giving me P0302 and P0304.

 

I have not replaced anything since last year. Car was fine all spring/summer/fall. If i start the car and let it warm up to temp it seems to run fine. But if stopping at red lights while still cold it shacks and flashes p0302 p0304.

 

Also i do get a Pop POP pop...if I take my foot of the throttle when wanting to slow down. This might be related to my exhaust flange breaking again.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84410&highlight=mattejb <see here

 

Easy fix just let it run for 10mins before driving? :drunk:

 

Help.

Edited by mattejb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Put a vacuum gauge on it so that you can read the gauge while driving the car. If the needle starts jumping while it's missing, you have a valve problem again.

 

If the gauge needle remains steady while it's missing, the problem has to be spark or fuel related, not compression (valve) related. Suspect the coil since it's knocking out a pair of cylinders at once.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...