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EA82 not firing


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You're most welcome.

 

Just a thought as you most deffinitly

have your ducks in a row!

 

Could you connect the timing light to a jump box?

 

This and the comp test Cougar mentioned may give

some insight.

 

I'm sure you checked for spark, so the ig amp and

coil and dist screw are all mute points.

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I'm sure you checked for spark, so the ig amp and

coil and dist screw are all mute points.

I have not as yet checked to see that the coil is kicking, the PO said he'd shocked himself with it so that was good enough for me. I'm going to check for myself tonight though!

I'd thought that maybe he had the disty 180* out but having checked and double checked that I'm down to thinking it's a spark or fuel issue

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Since you stated that it did backfire the ignition seems to be working ok but it sounds to me something is still not right with the valve timing, possibly one side at least. A compression test will prove that out.

Good point! Although something else I thought of was that the pop through the intake into the airbox could have been ignited by the hotwire MAF :confused:

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I'm not sure if the engine or just the TB has been removed. But if it has, are the fuel lines routed to the correct spot?

 

Fuel in from filter goes to the forward most, straight tube.

 

Fuel out goes on the curved tube out of the FP regulator.

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Neither... Engine's been in the vehicle the whole time and I don't think the TB has been removed at all. I'll check the fuel line routing though

 

Cool, I've just come to look at this anytime I hear of an SPFI not starting

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Per the USRM instructions, driver's cam mark straight up, rotate crank so the middle of the 3 ||| lines on the flywheel align with the pointer

 

 

Yes I do. Won't do me a whole lot of good unless it's running. Although I could get the wifey to crank it over while I check the timing (green plugs connected of course)

 

just to make sure, since it hasnt been mentioned, is once the timing belts are aligned to the 3 marks and a full rotation cycle(a 2nd crank rotation AFTER lining up the 2nd belt) rotate teh crank until 0deg mark comes around and then line the disty.

 

according to your other posts it appears correct with your description of the cam dots near 45 deg. the dot ont he passenger cam will line up with the hard edge on the valve cover, and the rotor points at the master cylinder.

 

make sure the ecu fuse is good and the ign fuse is good.

 

the creen connectors will cycle the fuel pump on and off when connected. once you set the disty itself at the 0deg mark, you plug in the green connectors to set the static timing with the timing light.

 

the black wire on toe coil goes to the positive terminal, and the yellow wires go to the negative terminal. have a look at that

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just to make sure, since it hasnt been mentioned, is once the timing belts are aligned to the 3 marks and a full rotation cycle(a 2nd crank rotation AFTER lining up the 2nd belt) rotate teh crank until 0deg mark comes around and then line the disty.

I will double check that, I'm pretty sure that's how it is right now but if not then that would be my problem right there!! I'm not 100% that I've done the 2nd 360* rotation after installing the belt.

Thanks Miles!!

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remember driver side cam goes to 6 0clock and passanger side goes to 12 oclock and make sure dist. is firing at number 1 piston. what ever side piston number one is on has to be at 12 oclock and the otherside 6 oclock just went threw it with a shop good luck .

 

Cylinders 1 and 3 are on the passenger side.

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Rampant frustration levels now!!

All spark plugs out, fuses for fuel etc. pulled, coil disconnected, start compression test. Crank her over a time or two and then NOTHING. The battery that was in the wagon when I bought it is now shot... showing 12v on the DMM but not enough current to run a headlamp, my charger shows a fault with the battery also :-\

Not to worry, ditched that battery and loaded up the one that came in my 88 GL-10T wagon a while ago... SAME FREAKING THING!! :mad: :mad:

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a) Check all bat cable ends at their connectors.

 

B) Clean where the connectors connect.

(note this is two different operations)

 

c) try a good battery - if no crank

try jumping the solenoid

(very common problem with these, worn starter

solenoid contacts and worn ig. switch contacts

yield no crank)

 

d) your bettery charger has a brain and the battery

is too low for it to "see it" .

 

Use a manual charger first or connect it via

jumper cables to your runing GL-10 for a couple minutes.

This will put a "surface charge" on the battery and

your "smart charger" should see it.

 

Hope this helps a little.

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Thanks guys... Been a little busy so I haven't been able to work on her much. Hopefully tonight though!

Here's a link to my photo album of the new Wagon...

http://s272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/SWMO82BRAT/88%20Wagon%20in%20Ava/

:clap:

Thanks to all of you for your help on this, really appreciate the collective minds!!

How's it going, just checking in I'll be home saturday and I have the afternoon booked up with my boy so if you still need help getting the wagon running let me know and I can stop by saturday evening on my way home. I'am hoping you already got it running so we can go play in the snow with the brat's!!

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How's it going, just checking in I'll be home saturday and I have the afternoon booked up with my boy so if you still need help getting the wagon running let me know and I can stop by saturday evening on my way home. I'am hoping you already got it running so we can go play in the snow with the brat's!!

I'm planning on getting into it tomorrow morning with the intentions of having her drivable by the afternoon!

first step will be charging the battery up and then confirming that I've got everything set/timed/located properly... Fingers are crossed that I'm going to get lucky!

Definately swing on by if you have the time! I'll be home all day!

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I'm planning on getting into it tomorrow morning with the intentions of having her drivable by the afternoon!

first step will be charging the battery up and then confirming that I've got everything set/timed/located properly... Fingers are crossed that I'm going to get lucky!

Definately swing on by if you have the time! I'll be home all day!

 

Once you get that thang running, you have got to slap a pair of white wagon wheels on it. That just SCREAMS class. (well, that plus a 102" whip antenna LOL).

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Once you get that thang running, you have got to slap a pair of white wagon wheels on it. That just SCREAMS class. (well, that plus a 102" whip antenna LOL).

I think you've got that angle covered! I'll go for the 6 lug conversion by drilling the hubs, slap some nice rims on her and a custom body kit... STREET BABY YEAH!!

(more likely I'll leave it bone stock and drive her till she drops)

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A HUGE thanks to Mellow Yellow for coming over tonight and helping me out!! Wound up being a combination of the timing being wrong and the distributor being shot. She's running great now!! Just have to bleed the breaks, re-fill the power steering fluid, find me some belts and I should be driving her real soon!! :clap: :clap:

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A HUGE thanks to Mellow Yellow for coming over tonight and helping me out!! Wound up being a combination of the timing being wrong and the distributor being shot. She's running great now!! Just have to bleed the breaks, re-fill the power steering fluid, find me some belts and I should be driving her real soon!! :clap: :clap:

 

I don't know if you can find out or anyone else might know what would make the distributor go out on a 88 E.F.I. system. I'am guessing maybe the guy you bought the car from switched the wires going into the coil in an attempt to fix the timing problem caused by timimg belts not done properly !

 

I am really curious if that or something else would cause the distributor to stop firing.

 

Hey if you don't want to mess around changing the double pulley on your alternator I my have a good one with a single pulley I'll trade you !!

Good luck!!

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