Jimmyowensfan20 Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 On my way to work so it's gonna be brief. For about a week now I've noticed flooding when cold,hard starts when cold, lack of power when cold, still though when she warms up a slight miss or hesitation. Also increased fuel consumption. i'm gonna play with it tommorow just looking for ideas. My plan is to first tune up which is mostly warranty stuff anyway. Then pull injectors and fix em up with new o-rings and clean them. Lets go deliver America's mail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I would do a vacuum test and a compression test and study the results of those.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86subaru Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 you could put a ob2 scanner on it and check for codes, or any auto parts store will do it free, have them check for past codes also ,also do above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Could be a number of things; one to maybe check out is engine coolant temp sensor. If you can get a scangauge or some other scantool in the ODBII port, you can see what the ECU is reading as temp when engine is cold after sitting overnight. If it seems out of range (like it's 20F out and the thing is reading 70F) you know it's time to change 'er out. Knock sensors can cause odd power issues, maybe not only when cold though.... How many miles/months on the current timing belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 I'm with Porc on this one. The Fuel injection coolant thermosensor. By chance do the rad fans run when the key is switched on, but the AC and defrost are off? It is possible the cold start flooding has fouled a plug or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 If it turns out to be engine coolant temp sensor causing cold start problems, it is actually probably not getting enough fuel when starting. i.e. if ECU thinks coolant temp is 130F and it's really 20F ECU will not be injecting enough fuel. Then you crank and crank and crank and eventually enough fuel starts to build up in the cylinders for it to start. You may smell raw fuel though as it is injecting fuel just not igniting and some will come out the exhaust, thus seeming like it is flooded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Come on Porc, you're slippin' shown him where it's at. LOL He may have a loose dirty connection. It could be a first... internal short in the CTS/wiring ECU thinks it's 20 deg C all the time? Great idea on using a scan tool to watch the engine temp BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Oh yes wow sorry about that! This pic is of my '96 2.2L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Thanks Porc !! As always you are "da-man" Part #s and all. Only thing missing is the video of the replacement proceedure. My bet you're workin' on it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmyowensfan20 Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 Not gonna be able to get to it till thursday since I now have to work early tomorrow but....I did get ahead of you on 1 thing. my buddy manages the auto zone here in town and is gonna let me borrow the scan tool overnight. he too said it would be a good idea to check readings at cold and operating temps. I will fill you in as i go. Oh....thanks for the pics. i too have a 96 OB 2.2L auto. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmyowensfan20 Posted February 14, 2008 Author Share Posted February 14, 2008 DONE!....finally. I found so many things not up to par that I'm surprised she ran. It started with foulded plugs, then it was a cracked injector and 2 leaking o-rings. Then The fuel filter was rust ridden, then the DOOM set in. ALL my vacuum lines were dry and brittle so i replaced them. ALL! Should be good right? NO! The after market Vacuum lines from Advance apparently have a different inside circumfernce than stock and causes HIgh idle. BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I also replaced my driver side fron cv axle and did a "free" brake job while in the "pit"... The worst is yet to come. Wheel bearings! The absolute hardest job i've ever done period. Inner and Outer all around. SO.. $645 and 3 days and I think I got everything broke fixed. Sometimes I wish I had stuck with my 86 GL-10 but the comforts of heat and air and power and auto trans are worth it I guess. Anyway. I told you I would update when finished so there you have it. Look on the bright side. I still have lots of hair! JOF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 ALL my vacuum lines were dry and brittle so i replaced them. ALL! Should be good right? NO! The after market Vacuum lines from Advance apparently have a different inside circumfernce than stock and causes HIgh idle. That does not sound right to me. How high an idle?? A few hundred rpm change maybe, And that can be adjuted. But if it is way off, you have something incorrect. Look at the vacuum sticker under the hood. Do any of the ine have a small marking on them reffered to a *orifice*??? If so, there is suppoed to be a small plug with a tiny hole in it inserted in that hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 It sounds more likely that a vacuum leak is causing the high idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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