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Front Flex?


bigo1966
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^ no need.....the stock springs are pretty well matched, I think you'll find that your maxing out the travel of the struts.

 

Those little a-arms aren't gonna travel too much no matter what struts you put on.

 

very good point. the struts are the immediate limiting factor. but if you put longer travel struts, you'll be maxing other things out in a hurry (control arm, tie rod, axle, etc. etc. etc.)

 

 

 

 

EDIT: I just realized you've got a buggy....so it might not be heavy enough to fully compress the stock springs. what springs are you running now? you may try some from an EA82 coupe or sedan....they're 12 lb/in's softer than the wagon or XT ones, and 20lbs softer than the RX ones.

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I currently have the stock EA-82 Wagon springs in the front. With the rear so light the front doesnt flex much at all. The real reason i asked all these questions is if i was going to keep the buggy i was going to build a custom front suspension using hydrolic slave cylinders as the front struts. So the buggy in the end would have air shocks/springs on all 4 corners. Ive done a ton of research on this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261171&highlight=hydraulic&page=11) and Yes i know it sounds way out in left field, but i really think it would work. So basically you would order 2 of these slave cylinders (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200309367_200309367) with the shaft very close to the diameter of the bottom of the strut. Yes i know the above cylinder has 2 clevis ends. you would have to order one similar to that of a snow plow lift or a bottle jack style. Where its a clevis mount on one end and a "solid" end on the other, around 1.5"od. Then just clamp that end in where the strut came out of and then you would have to build a custom top strut tower. I can explain it better in my head than in this post.

 

And....now you all can tell my why it wouldnt work :grin:

 

O

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unless you had a reciprocating hydraulic pump, those would not work for the application you speak of.you see those are designed to be pumped full of fluid to actuate.then relieved of the fluid to compress.good idea, wrong application.

 

and there are already automotive applications available for this.

 

ie: flippin you switches yo.pro hopper has one of the best gigs around.

 

http://www.peninsularcylinders.com/sp_weld.htm

 

Red one on the right is a good example of on that might work given the right sizes.

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ok go ahead, i'd like to see it properly performed.

just a question though, have you ever messed with anything hydraulic?whether it be cylinders,switches,or pumps?just curious.cheers, brian

 

 

You some oil in the cylinders and then fill them up with air. Oil to lube, air to lift.
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You add some oil to the cylinders and then fill them up with air. Oil to lube, air to lift.

 

using a hydraulic cylinder with pneumatics doesn't really work all that well....

 

 

and like I said, it won't be long before you max out every other component of the front suspension. the rear isn't too complex, so you can get away with alot more.....

 

 

I say throw some sedan springs on it and see how it goes. you might notice much better travel that way.

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Someone modified stock struts to take replacable strut inserts so if you find the right size hydraulic you should be able to do that too. But it still seems like to get more travel you need a different IFS setup. There's truck stuff but that's heavy. What about Audi stuff with 930 CV's?

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And....now you all can tell my why it wouldnt work :grin:

 

O

 

 

hehe. Anything can work as long as you are willing to put in the time/money.

I say if you have the desire go for it.

I'm sure 4" lifts on compact japanese family cars was thought to be a total and impossible waste at one point. Now ya see them all over and they do well. :banana:

 

Of course like was said hydro cylinders with air may not work the best but if you can get it to work then thumbs up to you. :)

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I always thought the radius rods limited a fare bit.I know when ever I jack the front up on mine it seems like the radius rods are binding at the lower ends of travel

 

they definitely do bind, but the strut will reach maximum extension before they actually limit anything....

 

but good point, they'd restrict things too if a longer strut were used.

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You add some oil to the cylinders and then fill them up with air. Oil to lube, air to lift.

 

air is definentaly not good for hydraulics because it can compress much easier than an actual hydrualic fluid the hydralics(i guess technically it would be pnuematics) wouldnt do anything the air pressure would just rise in the chamber. thats why they can use air in shocks because it can be compressed and then the pressure provides rebound. the oil that you would find in say an air/oil shock is to provide damping. which slows down the return action of the shock so it keeps your car from feeling like a pogo stick.

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