ronwomack Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 i own a 91 legacy wagon. the vehicle was vandalized is 2001 and has sat ever since. i have recently replaced all of the glass instruments and broken hardware. i am getting a code 33 and 35. i have reset the ecm and replaced the instrument gauge cluster (code 33, vehicle speed sensor) and the canister purge solenoid valve (code 35.) after resetting the computer the codes return. i suspect bad wiring or connections. can anyone tell me where the ecm is located. i would like to check my connection there and possible pinout voltage. any other help would be appreciated> thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Well there is a speed sensor in the speedometer. When you are driving is your speedometer working?? Here is a thread related to the purge solenoid. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73572&highlight=canister+purge+solenoid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 I'd recommend replacing the purge solenoid, as it can sometimes cause issues when trying to clear codes. Here's a pic of the ECU http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Just a back up to Legacy777 statement. He suggested this to me when I was having similar issues with my 93. Worked for me. Thanks again. Nice picture. For those looking for the ECU TCU the picture is taken with the panel under the steering col. removed and then looking at the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 23, 2008 Author Share Posted January 23, 2008 the speedometer is working, i have replaced the cannister purge solenoid valve. this is why i am looking towards the ecu or its connections as a possible cause. the speedo that i used to replace the one that was damaged in it's vandalism is out of a auto trans. my vehicle is a 5 speed. is it possible that they have a different signal? thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 You need to use the same "kind" of ECU as you had before. The 90-91 legacies had MT and AT specific sensors. (MAF, coil pack, injectors, IAC, etc). The AT cars used a JECS ECU, while the MT cars used a Hitachi ECU. You need to use the correct brand of ECU that you had in there before. If you had a JECS, you need to use a JECS. In 92, all the legacies went to the JECS ECU's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 the speedometer is working, i have replaced the cannister purge solenoid valve. this is why i am looking towards the ecu or its connections as a possible cause. the speedo that i used to replace the one that was damaged in it's vandalism is out of a auto trans. my vehicle is a 5 speed. is it possible that they have a different signal? thanks ron womack The speed sensors in that vintage were just simple reed switches. ECU supplies volatge signal to one side of the switch, the speedo turns opening and closeing switch, providing and ON/OFF voltage signal to the ECU. Sorry, I don't have any pin out pics on my computer for your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana105 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 After checking you have the correct ECU I think you are on the right path. 6 or 7 years of sitting around has lots of affects on a vehicle corrosion comes to mind, not to mention critters building and rearranging your wire paths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 Did you install a used CPC solenoid? If so did you test it to see if it works? You can plug the green test mode connectors in, KOEO, and listen to the solenoid to see if it is operating. As said, these cars are funny about clearing any codes if there is still a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 thanks for all of lthe fantastic info. the cannister solenoid vavle that i used was from a salvage. i did however check it with an ohm meter and energize it to ensure operation before i installed it. as for speedo. i saved the old instrument cluster and will replace the speedo unit to see if this corrects the problem. thanks again for all of the info. i will post the results when i make the change. thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 ok guys this is getting frustrating. last night i reinstalled the original instrument cluster so now my vss and ecu should be the corrrect match. while i had the car in the shop i replaced the air filter, to do this i disconnected the air flow sensor then came up with an additional code (#49 for the air flow sensor.) i disconnected the battery and let it sit overnight only to find that all three codes (33, 35, 49) are all still there. i do not think that all of these parts are bad expecially the air flow sensor since the code was never there before. is it possible that i am doing something wrong in the code reset process? i am getting tired of fighting this. thanks again for your help ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 If there is one thing wrong, none of the codes will clear. So...........In the same area that you are finding the "read memory" connectors for pulling codes, there is a set of green connectors. These are the "test mode" connectors. Connect the green connectors, turn the key on, engine off. You cooling fans, solenoids, relays..........will start cycling on and off. Use a stethoscope, long screw driver to ear or something. Listen to the CPC solenoid to double check to make sure it is working. Should be a nice sharp click on and off. If that is OK then you can turn key off. Disconnect the green connectors. The speed sensor can be tested with the instrument cluster out of the car. As I said it is nothing more than a reed switch. You can connect an Ohm meter across it and turn the speedo by hand. The circuit just opens and closes. Again I have no pics on my computer of the wiring diagrams to post. My FSM is at the shop. Maybe Monday I could take some digital photos of the pertinent info and post them. Or hopefully someone Else will post up some pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 yes i do have an audible click from the cpc solenoid. after a short drive to the store i now have added codes 42 and 51 to go along with 33, 35, and 49. this is getting ridiculous. this old girl is not far from going to the scrap heap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Since you state that the CPC solenoid is working and still have a error code for it this would mean the ECU is having a problem with that circuit at least. I would suspect the same may be true for the other codes that have just started to appear. If you verify that the solenoid is getting 12 volts while it is working using a meter and still have a code then the problem has to be with the ECU. I would also suggest checking all the input power leads going to the ECU to make sure they are ok. If those are ok, then replacing the ECU would be my next step to try and fix this trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigbusa Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 yes i do have an audible click from the cpc solenoid. after a short drive to the store i now have added codes 42 and 51 to go along with 33, 35, and 49. this is getting ridiculous. this old girl is not far from going to the scrap heap. Kinda funny to read but damn... you must be going nuts!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 yeah i guess that i am going a little nuts. anyway i checked cpc voltage at the ecu and got 12 volts. since there is voltage there and i am still getting the code i am going to assume that my ecu is failing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Only thing likely is a bad ground or the ECU is shot Or every sensor in the car is shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 The only other thing besides a faulty ECU that I can think of that may cause this problem is if the ECU supply power is dirty. This could be caused by a faulty alternator or bad ECU ground. If you have a digital voltmeter I would use it to test for noise on the power and grounding to the ECU. Place the meter in the AC volts function and check the voltage at the battery while revving the engine to around 2,000 RPM. See if you find any AC voltage there. You should see less than 0.2 volts there. You can also check the grounds to the ECU by measuring the voltage between the connection at the ECU and a known good ground point. If those things check ok then I would replace the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 it just keeps getting better! just for fun i thought that i would replace the cpc solenoid again (i grabbed a few from the salvage yard) the new one ohms well and audibly energized. while checking for voltage from the cpc i accidently shorted out my lead on the manifold, the engine instantly died and will not start. now i can't even get it out of my shop to work on something that isn't frustrating. i'm very near hauling it off for scrap. thanks for all of the help that you guys have offered ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 This should be a simple fuse replacement problem. Check the fuses under the dash and the hood. I'm sure you will find one that is blown. It may also be a fusible link so check them to. You're welcome for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 i checked them all cougar, i can't find any blown. il also ohmed the fusible link. i can't find any obvious reasons. is there an engine relay hidden somewhere. thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 i'm very near hauling it off for scrap. You've said that twice and it doesn't make sense. You could part it out for an EJ swap and sell the whole setup to someone here. Make some money, THEN haul off the carcass for scrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 26, 2008 Author Share Posted January 26, 2008 sorry for my language. i am venting a little frustration. i actually like the car but spending this much time on something that is probably staring me in the face is discouraging. no more scrap heap. thanks again ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Hang in there, with all the good help available here we can get this going. My info shows that there is a 22 pin connector (one of several connectors) going to the ECU. There is a yel/red wire coming from the ignition relay and it goes to pins 2 and 13 of that connector. Check for power there with the ignition ON. There is also power coming from fuse 14 on another yel/red wire to pin 15. Check that also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 you are too kind cougar. thank you for your patience. i have power at pin 15 but none at 2 and 13. which from what i can gather from my schematics would tell me that i am getting no voltage from my ign relay which is connected to my cpc solenoid. where is the ign relay locatd at? thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now