Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 You're welcome. Let me check on that real quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 thanks cougar, . i have a chilton's but i'll be darned if i can find it putting the internet in my shop was sure a great investment. it is so much easier than running to the house every time you need info. thanks again ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 My info shows it under the left side of the dash tied to a brown connector. After looking at the drawings again it looks like I was not looking at the relay power correctly. The power looks like it comes from the ECU to relay, not the other way as I was thinking. Sorry about that. There are fusible links in the main fuse panel under the hood that need to be checked. There may also be other power sources to the ECU that I haven't seen yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 i believe that i found the ign relay. not too happy about the location but have got it removed however i doubt that i will ever get it back in. will try to locate one and see if she goes. is there a quick checkout that i could to test it before i buy a new one? thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 hey cougar. by my schematic it looks like the wires that you gave me to check are supplying power to the ecu. i think that i should be able to test it by checking for power to the cpc and the 02 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 i checked power to the ign relay, (the grn wire from pin d5on ecu) good power. no power out to yel/red wires to cpc or o2. am i reading this right, i believe that the ign relay is not energizing. this is actually becoming interesting. thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Well if the coil for the ignition relay isn't energizing then we need to see what controls the voltage to the coil. I assume the coil contacts have a good resistance across them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 The ignition relay coil is supplied power on a yellow wire that comes from connector pin 4 on the alternator. Be sure to check all the fusible links in the panel under the hood. Especially # 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 ok cougar here is the latest. further testing has showed the ign relay to be good. when energized i have continuity between the proper terminals. i still do not have power to pins a2 and a13 on the ecu. i checked power to the two yellow wires that supply power power to the ign relay (not the light green wire that energizes the relay) and have found them to be dead. they are supplied by a fusible link i believe the number is sbf2 or s8f2 30 amp (my eyes arent as good as they used to be) any idea where this is located? thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 used a jumper wire to supply power to to the yellow wire entering the ign relay and she fired right up. that narrows it down to the fusible link. any ideas where i can locate it? thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 I think I have the answer here and you are correct about fusible link #2. I think you will find it is blown out. They are in the main fuse panel under the hood. Edit: I see you made a reply while I was writting a reply. Good troubleshooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 hey cougar. i tried jumping across that fusible link to no avail. is there another? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 That link supplies the power to the relay. Check the link contacts for a problem and wire connection under the fuse panel for a break. You need to check continuity between the link contact and the yellow wire going to the relay. Edit: I need to take a break from all this excitment here to run to the store. You will find your trouble somewhere on that yellow wire. Will check back later on the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 i found it. that made for a long day. i think that i will stop tinkering. i believe that most of my error codes are erroneous since i know that the components are functioning. perhaps the problem lies with my inexperience and not the car. i get about 21 mpg in the dead of winter on mostly short trips and she runs as smooth as can be. time to stop messin with it. thanks so much for all of your help ron: womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 You have good trouble shooting skills Ron. You were on to the trouble. You didn't state where you found the trouble. Can you let us in on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 thank you cougar. the problem was the fusible link #2. i did a visual on it and it appeared to be good. however when i removed the relay i was then able to see that it was blown. a lot of time wasted because i didn't look close enough in the beginning. as for the other problems i think that i am down to code 33 and 35 still. don't think that i will worry too much about them for now. thank you guys for all of your help and patience. couldn't have done it without you. ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 You're very welcome Ron. You did a good job and thanks for letting us know what you found. Blown fusible links are not usually obvious visually. I like to tug on the ends of them or twist them to see if they are good. With a bad one, the insulation will stretch since they burn out in the middle. For the code 35 problem at least, if you know for sure that the purge solenoid has the proper voltage getting to it, and it is operating as it should but still getting an error code, then the ECU has an internal fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted January 27, 2008 Author Share Posted January 27, 2008 i haven't ruled out the possibility of a bad ground yet. an ecu is a pretty expensive part so i would like to rule out any other possible causes. if i were to buy a salvage ecu how exact do i have to be? my local salvage yard has several susbarus around the same vintage however all of them are auto trans. i still have the speedo from the auto trans that i originally swapped. any ideas what years are compatible? my chilton's would leave me to believe that 90 to 94 have the same wiring connections for the 2.2 l engine. thanks again for all of the help. sorry for any complaining. it actually turned out to be an interesting challenge that i'm sure will continue. ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I'm not sure about the ECU. It may be ok to use one from an automatic. You won't hurt anything at least if you do try it. There may be some folks here that can sell you one. I doubt that you will find a grounding problem but it sure wouldn't take much to confirm that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted February 4, 2008 Share Posted February 4, 2008 Just out of curiosity, have you tried clearing the codes by connecting both the green & black connectors, rather then just disconnecting the battery? I'd suggest trying that. The instructions are on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 hey there legacy777. i did try resetting by connecting both connectors. i haven't messed with it for a couple of days. it is still running with cel codes for the idle switch, speed sensor, and cannister purge solenoid. the cel comes on after driving for about 2 or 3 miles. i haven't looked for a ecu yet as the wheel bearings need changing and are a more pressing issue. hope to get those done this weekend. thanks for the input i appreciate all of the help you guys have offered up. thanks ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronwomack Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 hey everyone. just to let you know. i replaced the ecu and my codes have disappeared. i took her for a short drive and checked for stored codes and found none. i can't tell you how happy i was to find a recent addition to the new salvage yard with most of the items that i have needed except for a driver side turn signal but oh well. thank you for all of your help. i will recheck for codes in a week or so and update to let you know how it worked out. also, rear wheel bearing swap went well thanks to a lot of info that i found on this site. i can't thank you all enough for all of your help and input ron womack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Thanks for the update Ron. Glad the repairs worked out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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