January 24, 200818 yr ok so the car is not mine 99 forester came in with blown motor(rod knock BAD) had check engine light, abs light on swaped in a nice 40k unit, clean motor put motor in, new fuel filter, plugs, wires,pcv,air filter do the usual warmup, no check engine light good exhuast flow(no pluged cat) heat kicked in nice and engine warmed up nice shut it off and then fired it up to drive it stumbles like a rabid dog, backfires, argues then will run great, then it will crap out what i know swaped coil-nada new wires plugs-nada swaped/adjusted TPS-nada idle control clean-nada checked intake and exhuast-nada fuel preasure is 40psi during stumble-nada no check engine light im really confused it WILL run, and great, when its running right its full of power and responsive, smooth idle but nothing i do seems to make it right HELP PLEASE!!!!
January 24, 200818 yr i feel stupidwhats the ignitor??? See http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DirectIgnition.pdf There are errors in the PDF -- in the "Ignition Coil Testing" section, the terminal numbers listed are reversed between the primary and secondary; however, the diagram is labeled correctly.
January 24, 200818 yr Howdy J, it's the devise located in the middle of the firewall that sends the trigger pulses to the coil pack. Evo, I thought this at first also, but I believe he would get a CEL for misfire if this or the coil pack was the issue. J, do you know how old the front 02 sensor is? Did you use the original intake manifold and the original sensors? (i.e. crank, cam, CTS)
January 24, 200818 yr Author no ignitor in usual place. i now what you speak of, but there isnt one in that place also intake and sensors are from new motor i have some sensors from old motor, no idea on o2
January 24, 200818 yr Possible the ignitor is mounted with the coil pack as seen on page 5 of OB99W's link. The knock sensor also comes to mind. This year still has a MAF as I believe they went to the MAP system in 2000. Since you have most of these, it may be a case of thowing the other parts you have at it. McBrat just had a similar problem with an EJ22T (recent post) turned out to be the 02 sensor. Why no CEL is a mystery.
January 24, 200818 yr Here's a pdf that outlines the testing procedure for the updated coil/igniter assembly with 4 spades at the primary side.
January 24, 200818 yr might be good to give exactly what the old (which we already know) and new motors are from. year, vehicle, auto/manual.
January 24, 200818 yr Author car is 99 forester auto donor is the same 1 year engine car thing fuel trims were peaking im swaping front o2 now
January 24, 200818 yr Author update i think the front o2 did the trick did a fresh restart from cold with a battery disconect did its relearn fine, everything normal test drive was good too no problem at all i put it in the yard to cool off and im oging to take a cold test drive in an hour to see if its fixed for good
January 24, 200818 yr Author update, front o2, both cats, still have issue now it has to warm up before it will let the motor RUN can go out and drive it, and for about 10 minutes it runs bad and slowly gets better, then it runs fine great power, full rev range no CEL light ever ?????????????????????????????????????
January 25, 200818 yr Author not being right, i think the rear o2 heater has failed and is sending the wrong signal till warm, any body owant to confer????
January 25, 200818 yr The rear O2 sensor is primarily if not totally for catalyst monitoring, and will not affect drivability like you are experiencing. Should throw a code for O2 heater. Can you look at Amp draw on the heater with your scan tool? What are the fuel trim #'s?
January 25, 200818 yr Author well my monitor is a bit on the fritz, so icant give exacts, but lean, not rich, fuel presure is good, im guessing fuel is about 9.1 maybe less, so real lean
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