SeanC Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hello all- Hmm, for some reason my search for "Oil pan" is currently coming up blank in this forum ... strange. Anyway, I need to replace the oil pan on my '95 Legacy ... it's a rusted P.O.S.! Haynes manual says to lift the engine with a hoist 2", I assume to get access at the rear-most oil pan bolts. Just wanted to ask if anyone who has done this can confirm whether this is really necessary? If so, any ideas on how to do this without an engine hoist, i.e. strap a come-along to an overhead beam (problem is i don't have an overhead beam!). Any other tips or advice? Should I replace the engine mounts while i'm in there? Do i need to "enhance" the new gasket with Permatex or anything? Thanks! -Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanC Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Sorry wrong forum! Hello all- Hmm, for some reason my search for "Oil pan" is currently coming up blank in this forum ... strange. Anyway, I need to replace the oil pan on my '95 Legacy ... it's a rusted P.O.S.! Haynes manual says to lift the engine with a hoist 2", I assume to get access at the rear-most oil pan bolts. Just wanted to ask if anyone who has done this can confirm whether this is really necessary? If so, any ideas on how to do this without an engine hoist, i.e. strap a come-along to an overhead beam (problem is i don't have an overhead beam!). Any other tips or advice? Should I replace the engine mounts while i'm in there? Do i need to "enhance" the new gasket with Permatex or anything? Thanks! -Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanC Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hello all- Hmm, for some reason my search for "Oil pan" is currently coming up blank in this forum ... strange. Anyway, I need to replace the oil pan on my '95 Legacy ... it's a rusted P.O.S.! Haynes manual says to lift the engine with a hoist 2", I assume to get access at the rear-most oil pan bolts. Just wanted to ask if anyone who has done this can confirm whether this is really necessary? If so, any ideas on how to do this without an engine hoist, i.e. strap a come-along to an overhead beam (problem is i don't have an overhead beam!). Any other tips or advice? Should I replace the engine mounts while i'm in there? Do i need to "enhance" the new gasket with Permatex or anything? Thanks! -Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Yes, you have to lift the engine. If you pull the exhaust down and remove the engine mount bolts you can jack up the engine from below and then put blocks under the engine mount bolt to hold it up. I'd also remove the rear upper dog bone link. RTV is the seal for the pan, make sure the surfaces are clean and give it 24 hours to cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Hello all- Hmm, for some reason my search for "Oil pan" is currently coming up blank in this forum ... strange. Anyway, I need to replace the oil pan on my '95 Legacy ... it's a rusted P.O.S.! Haynes manual says to lift the engine with a hoist 2", I assume to get access at the rear-most oil pan bolts. Just wanted to ask if anyone who has done this can confirm whether this is really necessary? If so, any ideas on how to do this without an engine hoist, i.e. strap a come-along to an overhead beam (problem is i don't have an overhead beam!). Any other tips or advice? Should I replace the engine mounts while i'm in there? Do i need to "enhance" the new gasket with Permatex or anything? Thanks! -Sean Lacking an over head beam...........a long time ago, shade tree mechanics used a strong tree branch as a substitute. Maybe that is how the term "shade tree mechanic" got started. Just make sure that it is a very strong tree branch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Sean, the search function only accepts four letter (minimun) words use the wild card * to make the fourth letter. Becarful taking off the exhaust flange to head nuts. Best method I have found is heat them cherry red first. For this - only an oxyacetylene torch works. Once you get all the bolts out you must gently prize the pan off. The motor mounts will be a "see them" call. Mushy and soft -> replace. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Just a thought. I recently needed to replace the oil pan on a '94. You can see Skip's writeup on ' The Mysterious Legacy from 'ell'. The bolts(that I believe may also take a phillips) in the back - above the cross member were very rusted. I don't think I would have even gotten them out if the engine were in the car. And I doubt they could even be drilled out if they broke off in the car. If the underside is rusty enough to need the pan replaced I would suggest that these bolts may be an issue. I'd examine them closely before beginning. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanC Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Thanks for the advice Dave, I'll check out that post, and those bolts. It's mostly the bottom of the pan that is rusty so I'm hoping they'll be ok (optimist). -Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanC Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 Thank you all for the great advice. btw - any reason i shouldn't buy the pan from Auto Parts Warehouse for $37 (at most other places it's $100 or more!). And just to confirm - the pan does not require traditional gasket, only RTV? -Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 That pan should be fine. You may want a new 0 ring for the dip stick tube. In reference to the use of RTV vs Anaerobic Sealer (AS) RTV cures in the presence of air. AS cures in the absense of air. good link from a premiere engine builder http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/RTVAnaerobicSealerTB.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted January 25, 2008 Share Posted January 25, 2008 Yes, you have to lift the engine to get the pan out, you can't cheat, I've tried. You can get the bolts all loose if you use a 1/4 drive flex socket on a long extension, but the pan won't fit out without lifting the engine. For the exhaust studs in the head, soak them with penetrating oil for a while then bang on the end of the stud with a hammer, this breaks the rust bond between the pipe and the stud. Then hit them with a 1/2 drive impact gun. The shock will break them loose without breaking the stud. Breaking them loose with a ratchet twists them and they can snap. The sudden shock of the air gun cracks them loose without all the twisting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 Hi sorry for the bumping of this thread but I'm in the same boat here It seems like my pan is leaking I can't tell if it's where the dipstick goes in or the rear of the pan.. Also at the same time I plan on replacing my headers as they too are rusty and it cracked at one of the collectors so it's a little loud when driving. However my studs are a little rusty but I don't know if I will have an issue.. I don't own any air tools and if I have to is a electric impact good enough to remove the bolts from the studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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