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thnx for all the help... now some progress.


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First off i just want to thank everyone who has been helping me these past few days. As many a time that i have wanted to give up, or simply blow up the motor and trash the car, i havent. That i owe to everyone here at usmb. I sometimes have a hard time tryin to do this all by myself.

 

So anyways, i just ran outside to try to do a code check. surprisingly it flashed a 24 and a 32. I'm tryin to find out what codes those stand for so I know where to start the real repairs. Anyone know what these codes are?? I cant wait to get back behind the wheel of my 6....:banana:

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Is there any way to test and see if its bad or not... I'm not quite sure as to where its located. Chiltons is starting to majorly suck.

does anyone know where to buy a air control valve fairly cheap? anyone have an extra one floating around willing to sell?

 

I feel like after 3 months im getting somewhere.

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First off..ditch the chiltons and find a set of FSMs ..much more informative.

 

I cant help ya on finding a ACV The only code I ever threw was a 22 ( knock sensor) and that was cause I knocked the connector off.

 

You know where your O2?

 

Also..I havent been following much..but does the car run and what exactly is it doing?

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First off..ditch the chiltons and find a set of FSMs ..much more informative.

 

I cant help ya on finding a ACV The only code I ever threw was a 22 ( knock sensor) and that was cause I knocked the connector off.

 

You know where your O2?

 

Also..I havent been following much..but does the car run and what exactly is it doing?

 

ok ill try to fill u in.

 

Back in october the clutch finally went out. I pulled the motor myself doing a routine clutch swap. Dropped in a nice Exeddy clutch kit. I figured while it was out might as well get other things out of the way. I had purchased oem hydraulic lash adjusters to go all the way around, so id be garaunteed to have a little more life in the car. High performance fuel injectors put in. replaced the rocker cover gaskets and the seal between the rocker housing and heads. brand new t belts. new serpentine. custom made intake, which actually got put on before the car broke down so i know its not one of the problems cause the car ran great once i put it on. brand new disty cap and rotor. did not remove the entire disty setup. just replaced the cap and rotor. New spark plugs and lastly a battery.

 

Got everything reassembled in the car. New oil change. New coolant. New fuel filter. Got the timing belts timed. then i had to go purchase a timing light to "fine tune it" through the disty. So now the car, once its fired up, runs awesome in an idle state. i can give it gas and max out the rpms no prob. When i put it into gear is where it gets tricky. as soon as i start moving, in theory when its floored it should get right up and go. But it doesnt. Instead it chokes and sputters and wont even hit 2K rpms.

 

I can drive it so long as i barely gas it when the gas peddle hits a "sweet spot". if i try to accelerate too quickly it just looses power on me. thats what im trying to figure out. Is why is it loosing power period and especially when i floor it. I went on ahead and replaced my pcv valve. checked all vaccuum lines for wear and cracks. they all checked out. i checked out the temp sensor, o2 sensor and tps sensor to see what kind of shape the wires and connectors are in. i cleaned all the connectors with an electric connector cleaner just to make sure and all the wires seem to be in good order.

 

After seeing the Air control valve code pop up on my ecu, it started to make a little sense as to why it would not respond correctly. i figured it had to do with either the mixture that was running in or having to do with the throttle.

 

where can i pick up FSMs. not tryin to sound ignorant but what does fsm stand for??

 

Thanks

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FSMs Factory Service Manuals ..I got mine here on the board but you can find them on Ebay sometimes. Worth every penny.. There is also a link to an onlione vesion on http://www.subaruxt.com ..That is actually where you will find more info on the car.

 

Here is a link to online FSMs http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm

Thanks to a member who is both on this board and the XT board also

 

BTW the Chiltons way of timing the motor is wrong.

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Is there any way to test and see if its bad or not... I'm not quite sure as to where its located. Chiltons is starting to majorly suck.

does anyone know where to buy a air control valve fairly cheap? anyone have an extra one floating around willing to sell?

 

I feel like after 3 months im getting somewhere.

 

im confused about the location of the air control valve. i read a lillte on how to test it. better to test it when first starting up the car so it'll have the most change. I'm just a little unsure as to where exactly it is...

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The air control valve is used to

set the idle speed.

(Sometimes known as the IAC valve - Idle Air Control)

I doubt your main problem is there

as you say it idles well.

If it were leaking the idle would not be normal.

 

 

 

Now the 02 sensor is very important.

 

The light you watched to get the codes is

actually the 02 monitor light.

 

If you start the car and let it warm up into closed loop.

 

Now watch the 02 monitor (no connectors plugged together)

 

If the 02 sensor is functioning properly

this light will come on and go off in random intervals.

 

What it is showing is the output of the 02 sensor

and the ECU's reaction.

 

If you see no light, the 02 sensors output or wiring is

to be suspect.

 

Hope this helps.

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It helped alot. Only bad thing is now im gona have to dig out the carharts and get ready to "play" in some snow to take it off to look at it. we've been getting snow like crazy and its driving me mad that i cant be tearin' it up...

 

I did what you said and warmed up the car and then checked the light with no connectors attached. No blinking whatsoever. i think what might be a culprit is all the sediment from when we cleaned out the bellhousing in preps for the new clutch. All of that engine degreaser and dust is probably doing a number on that poor o2 sensor and wires. wouldnt be too surprised if its just dirty connections or damaged wires. I also found that one of the connectors is really worn out and will barely stay together. Normally i would just electrical tape it together. Instead im gona go pick up some new connectors and some wire. Theres no way, with being this close to having it running, i am willing to "shortcut" it now.

 

Ill do a backflow test on it too. might as well since the o2 sensor will be pulled out... i'm kinda short on cash right now. if my cat is plugged, is it a good idea to put a used one. or could i possible just strait pipe it until i get another job w/ some $$. I need this car to be able to work. no car no work. kinda sucks that way.

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When you set the timing with the light, did you also connect the green test connecter and unplugged it when finished? Can't set the timing if not connected.

 

The IAS is located on the left side of the throttle body. That one inch diameter or a little more that starts under the air tube going to the throttle body connects to the IAS. The thing is probably nasty inside. Easy enough to remove and clean. With the engine hot if you pinch that hose close, the idle should drop a bunch. Just a test to verufy the IAS is working.

 

From your description of the problem everything was sort of fine until you played with the distributor timing. I'd couble check it before anything else.

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hey. im kinda short on cash right now. as i dont have a job. (no car cant get to work)

 

if it turns out that my cat is clogged or damaged, would it be a good idea to run my 6 without a cat on it. if i were to just remove it and drop a piece of pipe to fill the gap for the time. Or would it damage the engine in any way?? i know a couple of guys who did it to their rides. One was a neon and the other an older nissan 280z.

 

just kind of curious.

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If you saw no flashing the first thing is the

02 sensor/wiring.

I know it's a pain in the butt to get at, I

made a special wrench to get it out.

 

I borrowed one from a Subaru dealer and it didn't fit.

I may still have it around if you'd like to borrow it.

 

I know your low on skins

but an 02 sensor is not outrageous

You can use a universal one Oxygen Sensor

 

 

 

 

u_clear.gif84861.jpg

u_clear.gifItem#: BSH11027

u_clear.gif

Price: $21.49

tax and shipping not included

 

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

 

u_clear.gif

Attributes:

# of Wires:1

Heated or Unheated:Unheated

Additional Contents:Unit only This is fro NAPA

Cheaper

is purchased at the store my last one was 17 clams

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"I know it's a pain in the butt to get at, I

made a special wrench to get it out."

 

So do you mean that a regular wrench/socket won't fit on the sensor to remove it?

I was just getting ready to jack up the car and drop the exhaust system. I won't do it if if needs a special wrench though. I'll wait till i can find a wrench first.

Thanks for info on the universal o2 sensor. ill get one of those for the time being and once i get back on my feet again ill drop in oem or similar.

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I read you loud and clear on the exhaust drop!!

 

I would not attempt it without

heating the nuts to cherry red with a

brazing tip on an

oxyacetylene torch.

 

Others offer different methods but this is the only

way I have had 100% success with doing it.

 

If you want I'll see if I can

dig out the home made wrench and

get some pictures of it.

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"If you want I'll see if I can

dig out the home made wrench and

get some pictures of it."

 

that would be awesome. just picked up the o2 sensor. $19 and some change.

i wouldve never thot about that.

 

"I would not attempt it without

heating the nuts to cherry red with a

brazing tip on an

oxyacetylene torch."

 

which nuts were u talkin about. the exhaust ones?? i was gona use the impact on them. unless thats a bad idea

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little late today, will look tomorrow

" which nuts were u talkin about"

the nuts holding the head pipes to the block.

 

Some claim the impact is the gun of choice

in this fight.

 

I have had them pull the studs out of the block

threads and all.

 

Soak soak and then soak some more with

PB Blaster (not WD 40) will help.

 

Whatever you choose do not take a knife

(simple socket and ratchet)

to this gunfight.

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they've already been broken off before. didnt lose any studs. i also antisiezed them before putting back together. shouldnt be that bad.

 

ill go on ahead and drop it and switch it over. i still wouldnt mind seein what the custom wrench looks like tho.

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i think my only option now is to try to remove it while the exhaust is still on. We've been getting snow almost everyday now and its making it a little bit harder than normal to work on. As it turns out the car slid on the compacted snow and ice right off the jackstands. nothing was damaged though. my only other option, which aint gona happen, is to wait till warmer weather. Ive already put this project off long enough.

 

Skip, if you can show me a pic of what your custom wrench looks like ill try and make one. No subaru dealers for 170mi, only :Flame: dodge, ford, and chevy

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Here is the tool I made five or six years ago.

I cut a socket off and fabricated the

handle out of stainless steel bar stock.

 

The step at the socket fitting is important

(bottom pict.)

 

If you want better pictures or

dimensions

or

if you want to borrow it.

Please email me.

O2wrench.jpg

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