Rusty Bolts!

[Gyoas759]

Trying to remove one of the bolts today and had a snap. I know this happens on older cars, but this is the first time it's been on something critical. I'm playing with the idea of trying to drill a hole in the bolt and use a screw remover bit to back it out. Anyone know of any better way to remove a bolt without the head? Or any what to use to soften it up besides WD40?

[markjw]

Which bolt is it?

[Gyoas759]

It's a bolt that goes to one of the bleeder valves for a brake line. It's actually on my 87 Toyota attached to the LSPV in the back. The whole bleeder doesn't turn. Instead, there's a bolt between the line and the bleeder. I can't finish my brake work and bleed the line without replacing that bolt now.

[markjw]

I have had good luck using ez outs (bolt extractors). Drill out as much material as you can so you can use the largest possible ez out. Start off with a small bit centered on the broken bolt and work your way up. Take your time. Use some pentrating oil.too. Your chance of success is much greater if you can get the work right in front of you. Good luck doing that hunched over a hub in a wheel well.

[Skip]

PB Blaster, leave the WD for wet ignition systems

 

Left hand drill bits can work magic.

Lowes may have them

Northern Tool ect

[idosubaru]

do not use EZouts or screw extractors. they absolutely suck, you don't want one of those stuck in there when it shears off (which they do all the time). they are a really #*(&!*$& to remove. here's the important thing to remember about EZouts- they suck bad enough that "if" they actually would work, it won't be that hard to get out with many other means.

 

do not use WD40, it's not helping you at all. you want Deep Creep, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (all available at many places...Lowes, auto parts stores, etc). douse it with this stuff, multiple times if you can.

 

there are lots of options, can you post a picture? heat works wonders. heat all around the bolt immediately before trying to remove it. the idea is to expand the metal around the bolt, leave the bolt cool to help break the bond.

 

is there any material left or is it flush? vice grips may work or a pipe-wrench.

 

i can't see it, but if you cut a slot in the head you can use a screw driver to remove it.

 

also welding a nut to the top and then using a socket may work.

 

if it comes to drilling, use left handed drill bits. start with a very small one to help keep it centered then go up in size from there. the left handed drill bit will pull it out. i recommend high quality...whatever the best is, for this kind of work. forgot what i bought but they're cobalt..titanium...something very high quality i searched around for. they're awesome. this is a case where cheap drill bits get annoying and might not work.

[lostinthe202]

....heat works wonders. heat all around the bolt immediately before trying to remove it. the idea is to expand the metal around the bolt, leave the bolt cool to help break the bond.

 

also welding a nut to the top and then using a socket may work.

 

 

I'd stay away from the heating or welding method in this case, brake fluid burns at like 500 or so degrees F so that might get a little.... hot.

 

Left twist drill bits are great as stated by others. If you can't find them at the places others mentioned, these guys carry them (and just about everything else) and you will get your stuff usually the next day if you live in a big city.

 

Good Luck!

 

EDIT forgot the link!! http://www.mcmaster.com/

[markjw]

do not use EZouts or screw extractors. they absolutely suck, .

Don't write um off so fast. They do work and they work well. You just have to work with them.. I haven't broken an extractor in years. The business of drilling out the center material in a broken bolt is what relieves the tension. Its important to center your first hole as this will allow you to remove more material as you increase your drill size. Also, use good stuff. All of my extraction stuff is German and English made. Dormer and SPi to be exact. If you have never done it, practice on something first..Its a handy skill and once you learn it, you'll be extra careful not to break off bolts.

[woundedbrat]

lots of good advice so far one thing that has worked in the past for me is to file down two flat surfaces on any exposed bolt an use a wrench to turn it. If there is no exposed bolt then use a dremel to cut a slot in the bolt and turn it with a screwdriver. the more you mess with it the more it will want to come out drilling filing grinding will tend to heat up the bolt allowing lube to better penetrate. It helps to be more stubborn than the bolt:rolleyes:

[idosubaru]

Don't write um off so fast. They do work

i didn't say they didn't work. i'm trying to protect the average guy from the headaches these things can cause. here's the key - if they do work, then any number of other, less problematic, methods would work. and without the risk of getting one of these extractors sheared off and stuck in the hole, then you're in for a real big mess. other machinists and professionals recommend what i'm saying (which i've learned through experience) as well, there's even websites on how to remove broken extractors that say just what im' saying...don't use them. i didn't say they don't work, just that they are unnecessary. and for noobs, or people that don't work much on cars, it's asking for trouble to expect them to use them properly or have high quality tools available.