njdrsubaru Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 ... does anyone know where i can get this? part number is 499207100 i checked all the sites and it is not available do u guys have a picture of a homemade one? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 should be able to find all you need with a search of this forum, including where to buy those. they are not at all necessary. EJ22, EJ18, EJ25 DOHC, and EJ25 SOHC are all very easy to do without one. lots of information on doing that properly on here as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 You betcha! You can get it from subaru.spx.com it's about $65 I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 they are not at all necessary. EJ22, EJ18, EJ25 DOHC, and EJ25 SOHC are all very easy to do without one. lots of information on doing that properly on here as well. really??? I' ve always had to use a Spanner of some sort for these. Way harder than EA82 cam pulleys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 You betcha! You can get it from subaru.spx.com it's about $65 I think. thanks thats exactly what i am looking for now lets see some homemade ones! :grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigbusa Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 I used a fairly beefy craftsman rubber strap oil filter type wrench. It worked pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Way harder than EA82 cam pulleysi concur with that. as far as installing a timing belt, i remember thinking "what's all the fuss about this special tool" after my first one. wasn't hard at all, even the first time. as far as removing the cam bolt though, the tool would certainly be nice but i haven't needed one yet. i've used large pipe wrenches before - they work much better than those straps. i've had those straps slip before, they do work but are more annoying. the pipe wrench works every single time easily..of course you have to protect the sprockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 The tool is nice. Maybe someday I'll pick one up, I work on these a lot. But for now while the belt is still on I hit the cam bolts real quick with my 1/2 air gun to break them loose. Works great 9 times out of 10. To put them back on I put the sprockets on just hand tight, put the belt on and torque the cam sprocket bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Cool. Can you hit the cam bolts with an impact wrench with the engine in? I can't seem to fit mine in to do it even with the rad fans out. Maybe with a universal joint or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Cool. Can you hit the cam bolts with an impact wrench with the engine in? I can't seem to fit mine in to do it even with the rad fans out. Maybe with a universal joint or something? I can get my air gun in there with a short socket with the radiator and fans out. Some guns are longer than others. I always pull the radiator and fans and both hoses out as a unit when I work on timing belts cam seals etc. You can do the job without taking them out, but it takes me 5 mins to get them out and makes the job so much easier. Especially on 2.5's it helps me get a good look at the marks on the sprockets and the lines on the belt to be sure they are lined up. If I'm pulling the sprockets to do head gaskets the engine is out. No way would I do it in the car. I know that it can be done with the engine in but it's a big pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Ah ok thanks for the info! I think I will try that next time, I think I could fit my impact in there if the rad is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 I'll add if it (the engine) is out and you are doing HGs. The cam covers come off and there are flats on the cams for an open ended wrench. If it was wee weein' down a storm of freezing rain I'd go out in the shed and get a pict.....LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 I've tried using those flats on the cams and it always slips on me and starts to round off. I guess you have had better luck with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 You betcha! You can get it from subaru.spx.com it's about $65 I think. I second njdrsubarus request for pics of homemade ones. Or failing that, anyone have one of these they'd be willing to post some measurements of? I'm about to tackle this job too and I've already spent a small fortune on parts and supplies, so if I could make one of these instead of buying that would peachy! Thanks!! Will- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondercow2 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 I can't see you could make one without welding 2 pieces together, which wouldn't be great for the strength of the tool. You could bend a piece of good flat bar stock, but making the U-shape to go around the pulley bolt seems like it require a separate piece of metal (unless you start with a BIG piece of stock wide enough to make the U, and trim down the handle, but that seems like a huge waste). You might be able to up, instead of off to the side, by using one big bar with two lugs long enough to leave room for a socket and rachet underneath it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 I can't see you could make one without welding 2 pieces together, which wouldn't be great for the strength of the tool. . There are going to be a LOT of welders out there that disagree with this statement. With proper chamfering and heat settings, the joint will be stronger than the surrounding steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wondercow2 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 There are going to be a LOT of welders out therethat disagree with this statement. With proper chamfering and heat settings, the joint will be stronger than the surrounding steel. I suppose so. I was thinking more of amateurs with a harbor freight kit. The more I look at it, the more I think a 3 piece tool would work - one piece has the U and the lugs to grab the pulley, one piece is a square pin or something that clears the pulley edge, and the other is a long flat with a square cut in it for the pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 The way I figure it, your socket has to be long enough for your handle to clear the plane of the holder, so there's no real need for that press brake u-shape in the holder other than to allow the two lugs to be short so as not to twist or deform while torquing the bolt down. I'm not sure what the torque rating is for those bolts or how thick in the OD those lugs are, but just guessing form the pic, it looks like I could use 3/8 rod or better which should handle that fine. As for construction, I figured to leave the bar flat and put two holes in it, put the rods in the holes, weld it up. As for making the bar... that's what the laser cutter is for:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 I just locked cyl#1 with a piece of rope. Then with the belt still installed, I used my breaker bar to losen the cam pulleys. Unlocked the cylinder and removed the belt, then removed the pulleys. Guess the tool would be handy, but there are ways around using it. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 I cushion the sproket with strips of old inner tube and use a chain wrench works fine. Looks dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jverbarg Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 I left the timing belt installed, put the socket wrench on and used a hammer as my impact 'cause I didn't feel like walking over to get the impact wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 What a coincidence - my new welder arrived just today....hmmmmm..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 I can measure the pin to pin on center distance on my wrench if I can remember to do it! I was looking through some Lisle tools and spotted this item, seems like it would work, appears to be ~$30: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 [...]I was looking through some Lisle tools and spotted this item, seems like it would work, appears to be ~$30:[...] It's Lisle 38220. http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=659 http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=lisle+38220 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Oh thanks I forgot to put the part #. It's a 'universal cam adjuster'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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