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charging problems (GL-10)


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k so my 86' GL-10 has a brand new battery. the car isn't really road worthy because of expired tags. with that said yesterday i had to move some stuff because we're moving and i had to use it to move stuff to the new house on wed nite i had used it also. now why did the battery go discharged over nite when every single lite in the car was off. i bought the battery at walmart. its an everlast (plz change that name) and its brand new. btw this is the second one i get because the first one i had to take it back because it had done the same exact thing. could it be that the alt isnt charging well or what. but i dout its the alt cuz i know a bad suby alt when i see one. (christmas tree dash). also i need some references on that cheap defective walmart battery. i would appreciate your guys experience with these pieces of crap

 

thanks

 

Buddy

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Hi Buddy, I have tried those wally world batteries

 

I call them "Never start"

 

You may have a paristic draw on the battery.

(i.e. small constant drain)

to test for this

get a low wattage light bulb

(parking light, dash light ect.)

 

Pull one connection off the battery and

connect the lamp inline (series)

with the connection and the battery.

 

If you have a draw (current flowing)

the lamp will glow dimly.

The brighter the glow the bigger the drain.

 

Hope this helps.

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Hi Buddy, I have tried those wally world batteries

 

I call them "Never start"

 

You may have a paristic draw on the battery.

(i.e. small constant drain)

to test for this

get a low wattage light bulb

(parking light, dash light ect.)

 

Pull one connection off the battery and

connect the lamp inline (series)

with the connection and the battery.

 

If you have a draw (current flowing)

the lamp will glow dimly.

The brighter the glow the bigger the drain.

 

Hope this helps.

i have a bunch of small bulbs lying around what do need to connect it to the batt. and what do you mean by inline (series). need more feedback as to the reliabilty of this batt guys. Skip has a good name for it "never start" cuz it just never starts :mad:
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After you connect the bulb like Skip suggests, the bulb may light up. If it does, you have a current draw. Disconnect fuses one at a time until the light goes out. This is the circuit that has a short.

 

You should also disconnect the alternator. It is possible that one of the diodes has gone bad, causing a current leak. I have seen radios cause significant problems, too. They always pull a little current for memory, but sometimes they have serious issues.

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I had the same problem with my XT6..battery less then a year old..sit over night..dead. I was using an Advanced Auto Silver Battery ( the next step above trash) ..Cleaned all the connections...Alt was showing a charge..I did Skips test..used a spare turn signal assembly from an EA81...no Draw..Took Battery out and had tested..Was a bad battery...seems they are going bad like crazy.

 

What condition are the terminals in BTW? also the white connector on the Alt..what condition?All these can lead to battery drain also. You didnt check for the glowing dash lights at nighthave you?? I couldnt tell on my XT6 when it was light out...but in the dark it looked possessed ..when the alt went.

 

Just giving some simple ideas:)

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ok so this weekend was super busy moving to a new house. the car every time i got in to start it would click and i had to get off and play around with the connections till it started. i was thinking a bad alt also but i have to check. Bucky my dash doesnt light up so thats why i have my doubts. the battery conections u know the ones that go on the batt posts are brand new. i need to find a way to fix this and i know u guys can help me because if i dont find a way i'm gonna have to part with it and i dont want to do that. rite now i'm at skool when i get home i'm gonna play around some more with it and i'll get back at you guys.

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If you are having to play with the connections to get it to start; then you should probably replace or clean the battery connections better. Preferably replace. But since they are brand new, then it points back to a bad battery. Buddy, I too was a victim of a bad walmart battery on my hatchback. The day I went to take it back, the guy in front of me had a bad one as well and our build date stickers matched up too.

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the car every time i got in to start it would click

Buddy, this issue is a raging debate.

Covered many many many times.

 

The fix is

a) Replace starter solenoid contacts

B) Add a "never fail" button

c) Add the starter relay the factory didn't.

 

This may be the problem and not the Neverstart battery.

 

There are many posts on how to test if one of the

above problems is what you are dealing with.

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Buddy, this issue is a raging debate.

Covered many many many times.

 

The fix is

a) Replace starter solenoid contacts

B) Add a "never fail" button

c) Add the starter relay the factory didn't.

 

This may be the problem and not the Neverstart battery.

 

There are many posts on how to test if one of the

above problems is what you are dealing with.

cool i'm gonna look around here. 2 things the starter is new and what is a never fail button??? thanks for ur help!!! really appreciate it :)
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cool i'm gonna look around here. 2 things the starter is new and what is a never fail button??? thanks for ur help!!! really appreciate it :)

 

THe starter is new, but is the solenoid? If not, try dismantling it and check the condition of the contacts inside.

 

Presume a never fail button would be putting a push button in the solenoid circuit instead of the ignition switch, since a dirty/worn ignition switch can limit the current flowing through the solenoid coil sufficiently to stop it engaging.

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THe starter is new, but is the solenoid? If not, try dismantling it and check the condition of the contacts inside.

 

Presume a never fail button would be putting a push button in the solenoid circuit instead of the ignition switch, since a dirty/worn ignition switch can limit the current flowing through the solenoid coil sufficiently to stop it engaging.

the new starter came with the solenoid is it possible that it could be bad???
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the new starter came with the solenoid is it possible that it could be bad???

 

Unlikely if its new. Get an old bit of cable and connect to battery and touch the solenoid coil pin and see if the starter goes. If it does, your prob is the ignition switch or associated wiring.

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If you are getting the click, then fiddle with connections, then it starts, it's not a charging problem.

 

My 90 drove me nuts with the intermittant "click" instead of cranking. Sometimes just trying again would get it to go, gradually it got worse.

 

Hook up a switch from 12V (with a fuse) to the tab on the back of the starter. Use 14AWG or heavier wire. You can make it so the original wire is conncected also. Pick the 12V from somewhere other than the circuit that feeds the ignition switch.

 

At least when it doesn't crank, you have a backup.

 

Consensus around here is the ignition switch. I also found a high resistance connection in one of the harness connectors. Have not spent the time to hunt down the remaining high resistance due to the car is soon to be retired due to rust.

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Sorry, I'm late to the party. '85 wagon with likely lots of miles. Potentially your problem is the connector coming from the ignition switch. Remove the plastic under the steering column and maybe the kick plate under the dash. Take a look at the wires coming from the ignition switch (opposite from the ignition key tumbler) and follow them down about 6 inches to the first plastic connector. Plastic will be either pink or white. Examine the connector and look for a brown or black discoloration in the connector; if the plastic is not discolored, put everything back together since your problem is not here.

 

On the other hand, if it is discolored, it's the sign of a bad electrical connection (bad connection overheats the connector and turns the plastic brown or black depending on how bad it is.

 

Fix is easy. Find another ignition switch and harness at a junkyard. Almost all the early '80's and '90's use the same switch/harness. Replace it. If you are electrically adept splice a #12 wire around the one wire/connection that is bad.

 

Somewhere in the USRM is a picture of a bad connector. It is a VERY common problem on the older cars.

 

Edit: I checked the USRM and couldn't find a pic of what I was looking for. It's either lost or somewhere else. Maybe the original poster for that pic knows where it is.

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Sorry, I'm late to the party. '85 wagon with likely lots of miles. Potentially your problem is the connector coming from the ignition switch. Remove the plastic under the steering column and maybe the kick plate under the dash. Take a look at the wires coming from the ignition switch (opposite from the ignition key tumbler) and follow them down about 6 inches to the first plastic connector. Plastic will be either pink or white. Examine the connector and look for a brown or black discoloration in the connector; if the plastic is not discolored, put everything back together since your problem is not here.

 

On the other hand, if it is discolored, it's the sign of a bad electrical connection (bad connection overheats the connector and turns the plastic brown or black depending on how bad it is.

 

Fix is easy. Find another ignition switch and harness at a junkyard. Almost all the early '80's and '90's use the same switch/harness. Replace it. If you are electrically adept splice a #12 wire around the one wire/connection that is bad.

 

Somewhere in the USRM is a picture of a bad connector. It is a VERY common problem on the older cars.

 

Edit: I checked the USRM and couldn't find a pic of what I was looking for. It's either lost or somewhere else. Maybe the original poster for that pic knows where it is.

ed this is an 86' GL-10 :) the 85' runs almost problem free and starts every morning no matter wat :clap: . but since they are virtually the same i'll take a look at those connectors u told me about. oh and dont worry ur not late to the party, this is just getting started!!!
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Unlikely if its new. Get an old bit of cable and connect to battery and touch the solenoid coil pin and see if the starter goes. If it does, your prob is the ignition switch or associated wiring.
okay i'll be honest. the "new" starter is actually a rebuilt one from Kragen auto parts. is it possible that the solenoid could be bad???
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