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You mentioned you changed axles. Make sure those axle nuts are tight. I had one back off I me one time. Don't know how, it looked staked really good. It took quite awhile for it to happened. Anyway the outside pad was worn way down from the wheel trying to get off the shaft. The brake pedal felt lower than normal but still firm. As mentioned your master maybe starting to leak internally, you won't see the leak but you'll feel it in the pedal.

Pump the brakes till they get hard, then press hard if they don't stay frim for a few seconds I'd suspect the master.

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Good point. Also I have noticed at least the crapsman flare/line wrenches will open up a bit if you start really laying on them thus can potentially round off the nut. I clamp some vise grips onto the line wrench open end after getting it on the fitting so that it stays nice and tight.

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I wouldnt buy a master cyclinder yet, most of the time I have had a master cyclinder go bad the pedal is not low but the brakes must be pumped in order to mantain the pressure.

 

I think your problem may be a bad caliper or wheel cyclinder letting pressure leak off, it can do this without showing fluild leak.

 

For just a few dollars you can buy a brake line pincher from Snap On and then you can check each caliper, if one is bad when you pinch that line you will mantain the brake pedal.

 

The reason I say this is because I chased this same problem and changed the master cyclinder and it did not fix it, I then took it to Midas and they found it was the front caliper by doing the above test.

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Another thing that can cause this is a

bad wheel bearing.

 

The hub/rotor floats around and pushes the pads

back into the caliper.

 

Next time you step on the brake the

pad must first move this distance before

contacting the rotor,

 

thus the lower than normal pedal.

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