e4620 Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Well, I finally have my car back from a 3 month long ordeal in which a dealer mechanic managed to destroy a healthy DOHC EJ25. Some background, the shortblock has now been replaced as well as the drivers side head. Both are SOA remanufactured parts. Wires and plugs are new NGK and subaru wires. EGR system did bring up a P0400 code, but the valve was "cleaned" by the mechanic and is no longer causing the code. The motor mounts were checked by the mechanic and found to be good. The engine is not miss firing and does run smooth under acceleration, but the idle is rough. The rpms do hold steady though according to the tach. Its enough to shake the car when stopped at lights. The dealers mechanic can't find the problem, he recomends I drive the car for a couple of days to see if it gets better or worse. For obvious reasons, I don't have much faith in this mechanic, but I'm stuck having him do the work. Anyone have any ideas on what I should check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 as a subaru tech im sure he did both of these.....but it doesnt hurt to double check..........make sure all lines, especially vacuum lines are hooked up and properly.....if you have a vacuum gauge i would run a quick vacuum test and see what youve got...did he set the valve clearances to spec? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 As I remember it...........................They did not get the valves adjusted properly the first go around with this car. Can you be sure they got it right this time. If not..................DO NOT drive it for awhile to see if it gets better. It can only get worse if the valves are tight. Sounds like you are back to square one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Besides the already-mentioned valve clearance adjustments, there are other issues to consider mentioned in the article linked below. Pay particular attention to the possibility of switched fuel injector wiring -- it fits the scenario of rough idle but smooth at higher speeds and while under acceleration. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/FtEmissionServiceS01.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 I know the injectors are hooked up properly, I checked that as well. The valve clearances are something I don't have the ability to check, I certainly hope they were adjusted properly. :-\ Tomorrow I'll check the all the vacuum lines. And yeah, square one I guess...this place really messed up. Everything from allowing the car to fall off a jack, to forgetting to plug in the cooling fans, to messing up the valve clearances even ignoring a progressively worse engine knock. Can't say I'm impressed with this mechanics track record. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Actually, now that vacuum lines have been mentioned...I noticed now that for the first time ever, the cruise control seems to have a little bit of difficulty in keeping a constant speed. Nothing major, just +- 1 or 2mph, but this is something its never had a problem with before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 As EVOthis mentioned...................I think a vacuum gage would be your friend right now. A worth while perches if you don't have one. If valves are tight, vacuum readings would be invaluable at this point. Believe me I have seen this before. If you put many miles on with tight valves, you are going to be out of luck. I truly hope it is something simple, but I wouldn't take my chances knowing the history behind all of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Out of curiosity, what kind of damage would the engine sustain if the valves were too tight? They did have me driving the car when the valves were mis-adjusted, and this is the same head. I hope they got the clearances right, at least it no longer miss fires as it did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Tight exhaust valves= Burned exhaust valves= valve job/new valves. It is difficault to say what your problem may be without sitting in your car, but....................................................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrapdaddytatum Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 then there is allways the bad axle issue, that couses a vibration at idol only, i have had that issue with a napa axle once before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 The car is a 5spd and the idle is rough with the clutch in as well as in neutral with it out:-\ Thanks for the suggestion, but I dont think thats it. I'm going to have to get a vaccum gauge I guess, and take it to someone with a feeler gauge who can check my valve lash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 You maybe on to something there when you mentioned they had you driving around with incorrectly adjusted valves. Burned vavle seats would cause what your experiencing and at higher speeds you probaly wouldn't notice. I'd float that by them if only to watch their faces change! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 You maybe on to something there when you mentioned they had you driving around with incorrectly adjusted valves. Burned vavle seats would cause what your experiencing and at higher speeds you probaly wouldn't notice.I'd float that by them if only to watch their faces change! ahh crap these guys have messed up my car enough, it took them three months most of which without a loaner car (luckily SOA stepped up to the plate and paid for a rental near the end of this ordeal) I hope its a simple vacuum leak, otherwise this wont be fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 I know what you mean. I'm lucky what I can't do I know a guy 25 years now that does it. Most people don't have the luxaury of being picky on who works on their cars. It's a real crap shoot. The more I think about your situation the better the idea of pushing the issue of incorrectly adjusted valves sounds. Of course I mean if they can't fix the idle. That maybe your ace card. As much as you may want to get away from these guys stick with them until they fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 3, 2008 Author Share Posted February 3, 2008 I've just been through every vacuum line, no leaks that I can find. I'm starting to think the mechanic did mess up my valves, looks like tomorrow the cars back in the shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e4620 Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 Little update....as per the mechanic the valves are adjusted correctly, compression and leakdown tests came up good, there are no vacuum leakes, the mounts are ok and the timing is dead on. This is a mystery, anyone have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulwnkl Posted February 14, 2009 Share Posted February 14, 2009 I've heard it said that leaking and/or bad injectors (meaning not spraying a proper pattern) can cause idle shake? I don't really know that for sure, though. I can tell you I have an '05 Baja (EJ-255 (turbo)) and when I come to a stop if I shift into neutral (it's an A/T) the idle will shake the whole truck. Stick it in drive and it's smooth as silk. No misfiring that I or the CEL can detect. MPG is good vs. EPA ratings. I thought idle shake was a 'feature' of Subarus? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubermojo Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 2004 FXT. rough idle, RPMs want to climb from 500 up to about 1500RPM. press gas and RPM drops to just about stall but recovers and starts to climb again. Had plugs changed last week along with valve gaskets, ran for about 300 miles then started to idle very rough when I was driving. Checked and attempted to clean MAF sensor. Got 4 codes: p0102-MAF sensor p0021-Camshaft position actuator A Bank 2 timing over advanced (fixed this, good info on scoobymods (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...0301#post20301) p0113-Intake air sensor high input; pretty sure related to MAF. I think it registers both temp and flow. p0037- rear O2 which I was aware of At this point Im pretty sure its the MAF but have also come across a bunch of info about IACV. Curious with no code leading to that if that could be a possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 2004 FXT. rough idle, RPMs want to climb from 500 up to about 1500RPM. press gas and RPM drops to just about stall but recovers and starts to climb again. Had plugs changed last week along with valve gaskets, ran for about 300 miles then started to idle very rough when I was driving. Checked and attempted to clean MAF sensor. Got 4 codes: p0102-MAF sensor p0021-Camshaft position actuator A Bank 2 timing over advanced (fixed this, good info on scoobymods (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...0301#post20301) p0113-Intake air sensor high input; pretty sure related to MAF. I think it registers both temp and flow. p0037- rear O2 which I was aware of At this point Im pretty sure its the MAF but have also come across a bunch of info about IACV. Curious with no code leading to that if that could be a possibility. You might be better off to start a new thread for your issue. But here's my 3 cents. You just did some work on the engine, now a few hundred miles later you have trouble. Coincidence? Go over anything you touched while you were doing the work. What did you have to remove/disconnect in order to get access to what you worked on? Hoses, clamps, wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubermojo Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Well, I actually had some leaky valve gaskets and took to local dealer. Since they were down there I had them change my plugs because it is a huge pain in the rear...Maybe need to check the plug wires? Also, lots of talk about idle air control valve but have had mixed responses on whether FXT 2004 has one or if its DBW (drive by wire). All hoses from what I can see are intact and without leaks... Thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubermojo Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 I added a new (used; salvage yard for $75) MAF sensor and does not seem to help. To follow up, I have received many codes from the start of my problems to now. Started with p0037-O2 sensor rear p0021-camshaft position actuator A bank 2 (fixed by removing ACVS filter) p0113- intake air temp high input p0102-MAF sensor low input but no longer get code after cleaned the original MAF (or with replacement) but no change in idle I then started to get Misfire codes for all cylinders, 2 and 4 matured where 1 and 3 did not. After replacing MAF I am now getting codes: p0037-Rear O2 p0108-MAP sensor high input P1086-tumble Generator circuit low All codes are showing matured and Pending (whatever that means) Would the rear sensor have that much to do with jumpy codes? It seems the O2 sensor is the most consistent issue along with the Tumble Generator Valve Sensor. I ordered a new 02 rear sensor and should've been here by now but I must wait another day or so I guess. any other thoughts and ideas let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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