Gyoas759 Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 I'm learning more and more about these subies, but still a bit of a beginner compared to many on this board. 1. I just bought a 1984 Turbo Wagon as a parts donor for my 83 GL. Both cars are 4x4s but my 83 is a 4 speed dual range and the 84 is an automatic. My 83's axles are shot and there seems to be a good amount of play in the front suspension. Worn bearings sort of feel. My 83 is about to turn over 200k and the parts car has 58k and feels pretty nice and tight. My thought is to swap the axles and front suspension over from the 84 turbo to the 83. Are the axles and all going to be the same between an 84 turbo automatic and the non turbo 4 speed D/R? 2. I'm also thinking of replacing the rear shocks but I'm scared of breaking a bolt back there since this car has felt it's share of rust etc. over the years. How do I go about replacing 24 year old shocks without breaking a bolt? I'd love to smooth the car out a bit, but I can sure tolerate it as is compared to having to deal with another broken bolt. 3. The guage cluster lights on my GL are always on. The 4x4 light (Cause the lever doesn't touch the floor anymore etc.) I have to disconnect my battery every time I leave the car for more than a few hours. Any ideas? 4. I currently use a screwdriver to start the car. No problem. it's an old car and I've never had a key for it. I don't mind it at all. BUT the car engine doesn't shut off when I turn the ignition back again. I have to lightly ease up the clutch and stall the car out to turn it off. Again, any ideas? Thanks all. I love this board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Seriously hinky, DIY wireing from a PO I would guess. Start pulling panels and looking for crimp connectors and wire nuts.... *shudder* Why not fix the turbo? EA81T's are pretty neat in their own way. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Seriously hinky, DIY wireing from a PO I would guess. Start pulling panels and looking for crimp connectors and wire nuts.... *shudder* Why not fix the turbo? EA81T's are pretty neat in their own way. GD Turbo car was bought with bad rust, no engine, no turbos. I have a for sale thread started for it's parts. The rust is the real killer, or I'd be in the market for an EA81T. Rusted through in more than just the fender wells. I'm also gussing frame rot, but haven't gotten that far yet. Wiring was our very own Miles Fox. An EA82 in an 83 wagon, so I'll look and see what might line up. I have plenty of EA81 wiring harnesses, but nothing for the EA82. I'm still sorting out what's what under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 As to the rear shock bolts, you are wise to be concerned. The bolts go through the body entirely and the exposed portion of the bolt rusts and expands. I've found that I can loosen the bolt but as I remove it, it binds up again. Best technique is to be patient and loosen it a little at a time. Use a quality rust penetrant (Kroil is about as good as you'll get; PB blaster is not sufficient) and soak from the outside and inside for about a week. Loosen the bolt until it binds and then turn it back in about one turn. Soak it with rust penetrant again, give it some time and try it again. A torch will work, maybe, but I've never tried it. First one I did required a 4 foot pipe over the breaker bar to get enough leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 If you have access to a torch you can heat the bracket, soak it in penetrant (while it's hot), and use an impact on them. Should come right out - do it all the time at work with stuff that's increddibly frozen. You have to be able to put a LOT of heat on the bracket VERY fast. And then you have a limted time before the bolt equalizes in temp. You want the bracket to expand, but not the bolt. You can heat, and then carefully ice the bolt head as well. Then impact the sucker out of there. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 As to the worn front end, I'd suspect balljoints rather than bearings. Jack up the front and see where the play is; should be pretty easy to determine. I think the axles between an automatic and manual tranny are the same, but I'll leave that to others since I've never worked on an automatic; lots of manuals, but no automatics. There's a write up in the USRM which will give you some tips on axle replacement. When you say all the guage cluster lights are lit, do you mean ALL the lights from the guages as well as idiot lights? If just idiot lights, I suspect your alternator has gone belly up and should be rebuilt or replaced. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask more questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 As to the worn front end, I'd suspect balljoints rather than bearings. Jack up the front and see where the play is; should be pretty easy to determine. I think the axles between an automatic and manual tranny are the same, but I'll leave that to others since I've never worked on an automatic; lots of manuals, but no automatics. There's a write up in the USRM which will give you some tips on axle replacement. When you say all the guage cluster lights are lit, do you mean ALL the lights from the guages as well as idiot lights? If just idiot lights, I suspect your alternator has gone belly up and should be rebuilt or replaced. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask more questions. Just went out and connected the battery. The clock, stop lamp, brake fluid, 4x4 and the little battery voltage meter are all lit up. That would mean replace the alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Not if it isn't running. Bad Alt would illuminate the idiot lights or flicker them due to AC current from the regulator. They are not supposed to be on with the igntion off nor would a bad alt cause that. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 Not if it isn't running. Bad Alt would illuminate the idiot lights or flicker them due to AC current from the regulator. They are not supposed to be on with the igntion off nor would a bad alt cause that. GD Yeah. it's not running. They're just always on when the battery is connected. Not sure what to change for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Something funny about the way the wireing for the ignition switch is setup I suspect. Just installing an EA82 alone would not do it - I've got an EA82 with SPFI in my Brat and it acts just like stock. I would be looking under the column to see what's going on with the ignition switch. It sounds like power was routed to some circuits and is bypassing the switch. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Just went out and connected the battery. The clock, stop lamp, brake fluid, 4x4 and the little battery voltage meter are all lit up. That would mean replace the alternator?No, that's more lights than light up when the diode trio in the alternator lets go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 Might be good to rule out the ignition switch itself by simply unplugging it's connector under the column. Perhaps the switch is failed to *always on* Not likely but rule it out first. Next, Does it have anaftermarket radio in it???? Often people will wire both the yellow(contant 12v) and red(ign, or accessory 12v) toghether onto the same circuit. If they did this wired to a constant source, you could hjave power backfeeding to the ignition. That would explain why it doesn't die when the key is turned off. It's gotta be something simple. If it' not the radio, it could be wires touching at the fusebox, fusible links box, or by some crazy chance, someone wired 12v to the coil:confused: . Look at any electrical items that have been installed, Radio, CB, neon dash kit.....anything were someone would have had to tap a power source, which could now be backfeeding the ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyoas759 Posted February 12, 2008 Author Share Posted February 12, 2008 Might be good to rule out the ignition switch itself by simply unplugging it's connector under the column. Perhaps the switch is failed to *always on* Not likely but rule it out first. Next, Does it have anaftermarket radio in it???? Often people will wire both the yellow(contant 12v) and red(ign, or accessory 12v) toghether onto the same circuit. If they did this wired to a constant source, you could hjave power backfeeding to the ignition. That would explain why it doesn't die when the key is turned off. It's gotta be something simple. If it' not the radio, it could be wires touching at the fusebox, fusible links box, or by some crazy chance, someone wired 12v to the coil:confused: . Look at any electrical items that have been installed, Radio, CB, neon dash kit.....anything were someone would have had to tap a power source, which could now be backfeeding the ignition. I think the coil is wired right to the battery. That would do it? This car is a patchwork of at least 4 EA81 cars and an EA82, uses speaker wire to power different options, switches for the radiator fan etc. and is currently held together in places with JB weld. Nothing can be ruled out. It's been an off road toy for a while and I'm now trying to make it more highway worthy. Anyone able to confirm that axles from an auto will also fit a D/R? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Anyone able to confirm that axles from an auto will also fit a D/R? The catalog at GCK says 80-84 are all the same. Check it out at http://www.gck.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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