Go west young man and seek your fortune. But first...

[Skip]

Will, on your booster test.

That is the correct way to test it

and your's is working properly.

 

I believe Nipper meant sink towards the floor

not to it.

[lostinthe202]

  Skip said:

Porc, those mini lathes have limitations as Will says.

Try to find a small Atlas or older Craftsman.

Here is my mid sized, I also have a old Craftsman mini. (shown below)

 

Just watch out when you go looking for one. They're really popular right now (and for good reason as they are great machines) and one like Skip's (a fine example btw) with all the attachments and tooling can go for anywhere between $500-$1000 on Feebay. The ones to watch out for are the ones that don't come with any hardware/tooling/attachments. they'll want to sell them for just as much, but then you're stuck buying all that stuff which can run quite high. Also, check to see if it has a quick change gear box for threading. The higher end models had 'em, but the lower end models only had the change gears, sets of gears you have to change for different thread sizes, which usually get lost over the years. Keep your eyes open tho and you can find some good deals. I saw one like our hardinge go for $250 a few months back. You could do some real damage with a machine like that:grin:

 

 

If you're really interested, and don't mind making a drive, I've got one I won't be taking with me to Cali which I'll let go for pretty cheap. If you're interested, PM me and I'll give you more details about it.

 

 

 

  Skip said:

A small amount (0.0750") more can be taken off the

"step" but if too much comes off, the clutch will not

disengage properly.

 

Please elaborate. The feature I thought you were referring to as "the step" in the photo on page 2 got turned into 6 lbs of chips. Is there a step on the PP face too? Sorry again for my ignorance, I actually have very little idea what my flywheel looks like.

 

Thanks!!

 

Will-

[Skip]

Will the sid you mention getting the weight removed

from is the engine side.

Note I do not know if an EJ series has this set up,

as I have never seen one.

These are EA series flywheels.

In this picture

Look at the rusted face in the center of the

flywheel in the chuck

 

 

That is where the clutch disc sits.

 

Around the perimiter are what appear to be bolts

(dowl pins actually) on a step above the face.

This is where the pressure plate bolts.

 

If need be, tomorrow I can get a close up of

the flywheel for you.

 

This lathe is an old Clausing Colchester Geared-head

she can also take a pretty mean bite!!

She's three phase so on the back side of the head

you can see my "kicker" motor.

[porcupine73]

Nice thanks for the info. I love pics of machining related things. I got Machine Shop Practice Vol 1 for Christmas last year. Years back our local high school tech center would offer neat courses at night for area residents for a nominal fee such as basic machine shop, welding, etc. I have wanted to take some of those but in recent years all they offer is stuff like 'tai chi' and 'bettering yourself through vitamins'. Ah I always have so many projects going on it's hard to find the time. Hm...maybe take it on vacation this year!

[Skip]

Porc, DO IT!!

 

There is a special feeling running a real machine

that some of us ....well it just gets in your blood.

 

My "big guy" weighs in around 1700 EL Bees

 

Here is a shot of me trying to get it out of

the bed of my old pick'em up trook.

 

So I put the backhoe back on and got it.

Here she is "comin' home"

[lostinthe202]

  Skip said:

If need be, tomorrow I can get a close up of

the flywheel for you.

 

Naw, I imagine it will look much like a brake rotor surface only bigger eh? Would you say that a 166k flywheel def. should be trued? Does this extend clutch life, rid chatter, etc? The reason I ask is I only have that little sheldon lathe at home and I live 50 miles from work and my wife usually drives her car to work on the weekend, so it'll take a little planning to be able to have my car in pieces and be able to get into work to do that machining.

 

Also, is the surface to be trued hardened in any way aside from whatever hardening from friction during use? How much should I take off, .075 like mentioned earlier or is that part of the performance mod?

 

And lastly, the sanded surface. Can this be accomplished with 80 grit aluminum-oxide discs on an air sander or does it have to be some sort of oscillating sander?

 

  Quote

This lathe is an old Clausing Colchester Geared-head

she can also take a pretty mean bite!!

She's three phase so on the back side of the head

you can see my "kicker" motor.

 

Nice machine, I thought that had the non-aerodynamic look of Clausing. I also like those little blue guys. It's too bad everybody has "discovered" them as they are great machines. My Sheldon is a 10" swing, about the size of your bigger blue one. It came out of a "mobile machine shop" from the 40's, a big box truck with a little machine shop in the back for use in the field. It's got a threading box of sorts, but it's kind of weird. It uses change gears, but it has a fine, medium, and course setting for each set of gears.

 

Thanks!

Will-

 

Edit - Looks like you were posting some more pics while I was typing. That's a neat shot of the kubota's wheel of the ground! I had to move a Monarch EE in the shop here a few months back. That little sucker weighs 3600lbs!!!

[lostinthe202]

  porcupine73 said:

Nice thanks for the info. I love pics of machining related things. I got Machine Shop Practice Vol 1 for Christmas last year.

 

That's a great set of books. Lots of good info in there. Pick up a copy of the machinery's handbook and you're ready to rock.

 

  Quote

Years back our local high school tech center would offer neat courses at night for area residents for a nominal fee such as basic machine shop, welding, etc. I have wanted to take some of those but in recent years all they offer is stuff like 'tai chi' and 'bettering yourself through vitamins'.

 

Yeah, those programs are getting harder and harder too find. It's a real shame. Nobody wants to learn how to do things for themselves anymore, it's all about "technology" so you can quickly and efficiently find somebody over the internet to do your work for you.

 

 

  Quote

Ah I always have so many projects going on it's hard to find the time. Hm...maybe take it on vacation this year!

 

I second Skip, you should absolutely do it. There's nothing like being able to make/fix/improve your own stuff!

 

Will-

[Skip]

  lostinthe202 said:

Naw, I imagine it will look much like a brake rotor surface only bigger eh?

Yep just like one.

  lostinthe202 said:

Would you say that a 166k flywheel def. should be trued? Does this extend clutch life, rid chatter, etc?

Yes to all the above.

 

  lostinthe202 said:

The reason I ask is I only have that little sheldon lathe at home

Here is a picture of the EA series (11.5" dia)

  lostinthe202 said:

is the surface to be trued hardened in any way aside from whatever hardening from friction during use?

Not that I have encountered, but the heat treated spots

can snap a cutter if you are not careful.

I used to use tool steel for this but use carbide now.

  lostinthe202 said:

How much should I take off, .075 like mentioned earlier or is that part of the performance mod?

The 0.075 was the reduction of the step below factory.

I only take as much off the face as is needed to true it.

You must take the same amount off the ledge where the

pressure plate rides.

 

  lostinthe202 said:

the sanded surface. Can this be accomplished with 80 grit aluminum-oxide discs on an air sander or does it have to be some sort of oscillating sander?

Running a slow spindle RPM, a die grinder and 80 grit will be fine.

Will, you know your stuff!

I know you will do an excellent job.

 

For my man the Porc of Pine

  lostinthe202 said:

Pick up a copy of the machinery's handbook and you're ready to rock.

Ah "the Bible" gotta have one, a Kennedy

(machinist tool box) is a nice to have also.

[lostinthe202]

  Skip said:

Here is a picture of the EA series (11.5" dia)

 

The feature labeled "crucial step". Is this crucial because the same distance must be maintained between the PP mounting surface and the CP surface, ie what you take of one you have to take off the other? What about the cylindrical surface of that step that is perpendicular to the CP surface (the surface your black line from the "crucial step" label is pointing to) is this important in anyway. I suppose I'll be able to tell if it sees any action, but does it need to be trued as well?

 

Thanks again for all your help, I'm not sure how things would've turned out if I didn't have someone to ask questions of!!

 

Wish me luck, and as you've never seen an EJ flywheel, I'll be sure to take some pics!

 

Will-

 

p.s. nice box, it's still on my "to get" list. I'm still working out of a Craptsman P.O.S. !

[Skip]

  lostinthe202 said:

The feature labeled "crucial step". Is this crucial because the same distance must be maintained between the PP mounting surface and the CP surface, ie what you take of one you have to take off the other?

Sir affirmative, sir.

I have never maintained any other profile.

Just the step distance. I use the vernier in the background,

with the depth gauge, to check it.

 

  lostinthe202 said:

Thanks again for all your help, I'm not sure how things would've turned out if I didn't have someone to ask questions of!!

You are most welcome, hope it helps somewhat.

Kewl swappin' talk with another machinehead.

 

  lostinthe202 said:

Wish me luck, and as you've never seen an EJ flywheel, I'll be sure to take some pics!

As the Aussies say "here's good onya mate".

Lookin' forward to the picts.

 

 

Thanks on the box.

Found my Kennedy full of "goodies" floating in the

"bay of evil" of all places!!

[lostinthe202]

  Skip said:

You are most welcome, hope it helps somewhat.

Kewl swappin' talk with another machinehead.

 

Absolutely. There are not a lot of use around the nation's capitol. I def. wasn't the most experienced person in shop when I applied for my job, in fact my boss later told me that the only reason he hired me was 'cause they had had their ad up for 4 months and I was ONLY person to apply!! Not many people in DC know which end of the cutter to use I s'pose:) Now here it is 1.5 years later and I'm running the place (yikes!!)

 

 

OK, now on the flywheel. It occurs to me that I may be jumping the gun a little bit. Aside from the occasional shudder and the loud TO bearing (if that's what it is) my clutch is fine. Is the loud TO bearing something I can ignore or is it going to seize or explode or have some other nasty event? I've already got a stack of parts I've bought and a list of things to do on both my and with wife's car, so if I can wait until my clutch is actually slipping that would probably be good:clap:

 

Thanks!

 

Will-

[Skip]

  lostinthe202 said:

Absolutely.Now here it is 1.5 years later and I'm running the place (yikes!!)

Congrats on that, why the move?

 

Before I quit working, I had moved up to

or is that "on to"?

CNC machining.

Really I have never been anything but

a hobby machinist.

But I have to be honnest, there is just something

magical about using "last word indicators" and such

to make a part.

The shots I've shown are my home shop, it has a few

other machines, like I said.. It gets in your blood.

 

 

 

  lostinthe202 said:

Aside from the occasional shudder and the loud TO bearing (if that's what it is) my clutch is fine. Is the loud TO bearing something I can ignore or is it going to seize or explode or have some other nasty event?

Will, the shudder was covered under a TSB for Imps and Foresters. (many posts on this subject)

 

As for the throw out bearing going toast.

First, I will assume you got new hold down clips for

the new TO.

Some people report driving for years but.....

Your best bet here is to start a separate post as this one

has kind of gottin' lost in the weeds.

[lostinthe202]

  Skip said:

Will, the shudder was covered under a TSB for Imps and Foresters. (many posts on this subject)

As for the throw out bearing going toast.

First, I will assume you got new hold down clips for

the new TO.

 

Actually, I haven't bought anything for the clutch job yet. First priority is my failing water pump. The clutch will last a bit longer at the least.

 

 

  Quote

Your best bet here is to start a separate post as this one

has kind of gottin' lost in the weeds.

 

Yer right on this, I'll start a new thread about the clutch and the idle thing after I do some more searching.

 

  Skip said:

Congrats on that, why the move?

 

Sent you a PM about this and another non-subaru shop question you may be able to answer.

 

Thanks,

Will-