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Project EJ Hatch


Pooparu
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Update: So I got my transmission to shift out of 4WD High. I took out the drive line and all the shift linkage in preparation to remove the transmission then I thought for some crazy reason, why not try and rotate the 4WD lever 180 degrees. Sure enough that worked, I’m not sure why but for some reason the leaver got installed upside down so it had to be rotated to fit in the car and the transmission just happened to be in 4WD high at the time (the only setting that will allow a 180 spin). I guess this locks the transmission in 4WD high and I’m not sure why. Oh well, it’s fixed now and back together.

 

Next up: I’m going to try and relocate the intake where the spare tire use to be. I still have a small bit of wiring to do like, fixing the headlights, hooking the thermal switch up to the EJ harness, hooking up the temperature and oil pressure gauges, Stereo, transmission wiring and the Toyota inclimeter. After I finish that and change the oil then I can take it down and get the exhaust made. Weeeee!:)

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I'm going to be running this kit: http://www.wrxtra.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_21&products_id=34

For my oil pressure sender. I've found that the stock adapter plug on the EJ22 has BPST threads, not NPT threads. This makes it very hard, and kinda exspensive to find things that will bolt to it without leaking. NPT will kind of thread a ways, but I'm not comfortable enough with the seal... knowing its the wrong kind of threads.

 

Kit comes with the specially made block adapter, some stainless line, a bracket, and a couple other fittings. The line has 1/8 NPT males on both ends. I put together an adapter for the stock EA pressure sender to come down from 3/8 NPT (if my memory is good) to 1/8 NPT for around $10 at my local Home Depot.

 

HatchMonster here spent $40 in fittings from a place to make his own kit (line and everything) yet I believe he put the 1/8 NPT into the BSPT threads...so he didn't have a fancy block adapter like the kit I linked to.

 

I also purchased a 1/8 NPT tap for the purpose of re-tapping the BSPT hole, however, there just wasn't enough material for that to work. Some oil pan bolts are the same size/ thread to work in the block. You could find one of those, drill it, and tap it yourself... Thats what I was thinking of doing before I found the kit.

 

I'm interested to find out which way you choose to go! Good luck.

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Thanks, for the information. This is very helpful. One thing I was thinking of doing is getting one of those adaptors that goes between the oil pump and the oil filter. I think it's meant for an oil cooler, but I think I might be able to get it in the right thread and put in the stock pressure sensor. We'll see after I do a bit more research on it.

 

What did you do about your temperature gauge?

 

 

I'm going to be running this kit: http://www.wrxtra.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_21&products_id=34

For my oil pressure sender. I've found that the stock adapter plug on the EJ22 has BPST threads, not NPT threads. This makes it very hard, and kinda exspensive to find things that will bolt to it without leaking. NPT will kind of thread a ways, but I'm not comfortable enough with the seal... knowing its the wrong kind of threads.

 

Kit comes with the specially made block adapter, some stainless line, a bracket, and a couple other fittings. The line has 1/8 NPT males on both ends. I put together an adapter for the stock EA pressure sender to come down from 3/8 NPT (if my memory is good) to 1/8 NPT for around $10 at my local Home Depot.

 

HatchMonster here spent $40 in fittings from a place to make his own kit (line and everything) yet I believe he put the 1/8 NPT into the BSPT threads...so he didn't have a fancy block adapter like the kit I linked to.

 

I also purchased a 1/8 NPT tap for the purpose of re-tapping the BSPT hole, however, there just wasn't enough material for that to work. Some oil pan bolts are the same size/ thread to work in the block. You could find one of those, drill it, and tap it yourself... Thats what I was thinking of doing before I found the kit.

 

I'm interested to find out which way you choose to go! Good luck.

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Oil sandwhich dealy should work too. I'd imagine one for a Impreza should bolt up fine.

 

For the temp gauge, I just hooked the EJ22 sender into the EA harness. Full sweep is only about 1/3 of the stock gauge. I'm just accustom to 1/4 gauge being running temp (both my EJ22 and my EJ20G sit at that just fine). My EJ20G has a fan setup to come on at a certain temp, so I've never had a problem with that. My EJ22 I just keep an eye on, and flip the fan on if I feel it needs it (stop and go traffic in the hot hot sun mainly). Also for the record, I'm using EA82 gauges, EA81 may differ!

 

I've read about an resistor mod to make it read on the stock gauge better, I just haven't attempted that yet.

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Looking good!

 

I took WEEKS cleaning up my wiring, and still under the dash it looks a bit crazy. But, out of sight, out of mind!

 

Just as a side note, when I did my EJ swap I ended up doing the same thing. Worked good for more than a year before the SMJ worked it's way out of the rat's nest of wire I stuffed behind the steering column and into the path of the accelerator pedal. I kinda wondered what that burning smell was for a few days but figured it was left over from welding I had done. Turns out the harness had been on fire above my feet a few times. When I put the pedal to the floor, it was severing/crushing a bunch of the SMJ wire into each other. I noticed the car had lost power, and then a few days later it wouldn't start. Pulled the wires apart and taped up the charred remains and it still works, but I keep the extinguisher handy.

 

Anyway, moral of the story is to make sure that any of the spliced harness is well secured out of harms way, not just stuffed under the dash.

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Just as a side note, when I did my EJ swap I ended up doing the same thing. Worked good for more than a year before the SMJ worked it's way out of the rat's nest of wire I stuffed behind the steering column and into the path of the accelerator pedal. I kinda wondered what that burning smell was for a few days but figured it was left over from welding I had done. Turns out the harness had been on fire above my feet a few times. When I put the pedal to the floor, it was severing/crushing a bunch of the SMJ wire into each other. I noticed the car had lost power, and then a few days later it wouldn't start. Pulled the wires apart and taped up the charred remains and it still works, but I keep the extinguisher handy.

 

Anyway, moral of the story is to make sure that any of the spliced harness is well secured out of harms way, not just stuffed under the dash.

 

Thanks for the note. I'm stuffing them under the passenger side and I've soldered, shrink wrapped and taped all of my connections so I hope that's going to do the trick, though adding a fire extinguisher isn't a bad idea.

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that reminds me, i bought a bunch of those off of ebay a while ago. had forgotten until you posted that.

I still have the digidash in my wagon, and with the tach never-working and the odometer now frozen, and with WCSS looming, I guess I better get off the fence, hm?

 

 

I've read about an resistor mod to make it read on the stock gauge better, I just haven't attempted that yet.

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Update: I got my stereo installed and everything put back in the center of the car. In case you didn’t notice I got a slanted center console. I’m not sure what to do about my Toyota inclimeter, but I’m sure I’ll get it figured out at some point. I just want to focus on getting this on the road and work out all the bugs before WCSS. I’m going to do some more wiring this Saturday to fix a couple of small electrical glitches with my accessories then I should be able to clean up that mess on the passenger floor. I just want to make sure everything is working before I start stuffing wires up in the dash. I really don’t want to have to take that apart again. At least not for a while. I’ll get some more images up after I have that mess cleaned up then it’s off to get my exhaust done.

 

Center.jpg

 

Center_2.jpg

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Update: So I messed around with the wiring this weekend and got some things figured out. Let me start by telling you what I needed to get finished first. The headlights, cooling fan and horns were not working. This had nothing to do with the EJ harness at all, but just my own stupidity. I figured out that the big loom of wirers that I cut out should not be wrapped together and taped up. This caused a short and blew my fuses, and I didn’t discover this until I put a piece of wire in the fuse panel and smoke came up from under the hood. (I know stupid) That blew my fusible link for the headlights. (which I didn’t even know existed) That’s why all of my headlights didn’t work. I didn’t really discover all of this until after Matt and I had rigged up all the junk that didn’t work. The way we figured it out was by running the car and smoke stared to come out of the fusible links. I guess I had the alternator wired wrong. I just hooked it up to the old EA alternator wire which ran directly to the fusible link panel and ‘cause the battery was low the alternator was kicking out a lot more juice causing the fusible links to smoke. I had a fully charged battery before and that’s why it ran fine before. So we opened up the links and found one that was blown, so I replaced it and a light went off in my head (no pun intended). That’s why I wasn’t getting power to my fuses. So I reconnected the headlight stuff up the way it was and it worked (the way I had it set up was kind of funky). I still can’t get my fans to kick on so I think I’m just going to hook up ignition power and have it run when the car is running. At least I know it will stay cool that way.:cool:

 

 

I also painted all my jams and the underside of my hood. So now everything is black and matching. I’m just about ready to tuck all my wires up and put the rest of the interior back together. This coming Saturday I’m going to get the exhaust done and the hood hinge welded in. Then I think it’s time to drive it around and work out the bugs. I’m so close I can taste it. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
I just got a set off then link you sent me, Did you take off the fenders or just put them on from underneath?

 

I put them on from underneath. (it was a pain) I started to just take the fenders off but I started to brake bolts off so I stopped and just installed them with the fenders on. You'll have to post up some pics once you get them installed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Update: The thing is running great. I had a lifter that was knocking a little when I first started to drive it, but it’s gone now. I’ve driven it over 60 miles now and only have a few little things to mess with. I’m going to install a new throttle cable ‘cause mine is sticking. My passenger side axle is making a funny sound every now and again and I need to go through the brakes too.

 

 

So things left to do before the show is: install the LSD, Tint the windows, install a pitch stop, move the intake and clean up the wiring under the hood a bit better.

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