mountaingoatgruff Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 97 legacy wagon ej22, auto trans, 180k miles 1. what's the difference between the neoprene and saturated nitrile timing belts? why are nitrile belts designated ca parts? does it matter which one i use? i live in ca but my car is originally from wa. 2. do i need to replace the tensioner or anything else when i replace the timing belt or are those idlers still trustworthy at this age with an interference engine? dumb question? i hope not, that stuff is expensive!! 3. is there anywhere that i can buy the cam sprocket wrench for my car and if so how much/where? 4. the lights for my air/heat control and my shifter aren't working, but all the rest work fine as well as the dimmer. easy bulb change or bigger problem? 5. i've read the published fuel efficiency ratings for this car, but what should i realistically expect out of it on 89octane (mid grade) with 180k and a complete tuneup? 6. my air/heat control has a couple sticky buttons, they don't like to go in or come back out, and the slider doesn't like to stay on the hot side. has anyone else had this issue? i'm thinking it all just needs to be cleaned. the wife and i are lovin this car!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Hi mountaingoatgruff! What's the difference between the neoprene and saturated nitrile timing belts? why are nitrile belts designated ca parts? does it matter which one i use? i live in ca but my car is originally from wa. Are those aftermarket timing belts? I haven't seen the OEM ones list the material of construction, though there are different OEM part #'s for calif and non-calif belts. 1997 Federal emissions 2.2L has a timing belt interval of 60k miles/60 months http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=1997myfed.html 1997 Calif emissions 2.2L has a timing belt interval of 105k miles / 105 months http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/schedules.jsp?schedulepage=1997myca.html You can find out with your VIN# from a dealer if yours is a calif emissions or not. Or you can look for a sticker saying it is a calif. emissions somewhere around the drivers door pillars. 2. do i need to replace the tensioner or anything else when i replace the timing belt or are those idlers still trustworthy at this age with an interference engine? dumb question? i hope not, that stuff is expensive!! You typically should at least replace the geared/toothed idler near the water pump, and might as well do the water pump too while you're in there if it is original. That era needs the oil pump removed, screws checked for backing out, new o-ring, and reseal to the engine. oil pump sealant. 3. is there anywhere that i can buy the cam sprocket wrench for my car and if so how much/where? Yes subaru.spx.com ; Lisle also makes something that might work. See --> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84714 4. the lights for my air/heat control and my shifter aren't working, but all the rest work fine as well as the dimmer. easy bulb change or bigger problem? Yes it seems most soobs of that era those bulbs are burned out. there's probably a thread on replacement in the USRM on this board. 5. i've read the published fuel efficiency ratings for this car, but what should i realistically expect out of it on 89octane (mid grade) with 180k and a complete tuneup? Varies widely because there are so many variables. Figure roughly 20-27mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I recently read the thread (couldn't find it tho) that mentioned that '97 was the year that the 2.2's became interference, but if your's is an early '97 it may still be non-interference. I wish I could be more helpful in the identification, but perhaps one of the gurus will chime in. Will- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Right on, 2.2 Liter Engine Enhancements Beginning in the 1997 Model Year, the 2.2 liter engine for 1997 Legacy and Impreza models has had internal and external changes that yield an approximately 10% increase in power and 3% increase in fuel economy. Accomplishing this involves many factors, one of which is engine friction reduction. The piston, a major source of engine friction, has been coated with a friction reducing agent called Molybenum. This thin coating not only allows smoother travel through the cylinder, but also reduces cylinder wall scuffing. The skirt of the piston has been reshaped and the overall weight has been reduced by approximately 100 grams. Compression ratio has been increased to 9.7 to 1 by reshaping the crown of the piston. This eliminates the clearance that was available between the piston at TDC and the fully opened valve. Piston pin offset has been changed to 0.5 mm. Piston to cylinder wall clearance has been reduced by increasing the piston diameter. Another source of high engine friction is the valve train. Hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) are always in contact with the valves. The hydraulic pressure of the lash adjuster must be overcome during operation and during the most critical time of engine start. To overcome this situation and to contribute to the total reduction of friction loss, 1997 and later SOHC engines have solid valve adjusters. The scheduled service of this valve train is set at 100,000 miles. SOHC engines now use an adjustment screw to adjust valve clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 wow, now that's helpful. i looked the timing belts up at partsamerica.com (kragen's) and they're all designated ca or fed except the goodyear belt, the beck/arnley belts say fed = neoprene and ca = "highly saturated nitrile" (whatever that's supposed to mean). i saw that the service interval for the ca car timing belts is longer and i was wondering if the nitrile belt may be stronger or something. my car is a federal emissions model but i'd like to use whichever belt is a higher quality part if they're interchangeable. figures about the lights... $65 is pretty steep for that sprocket wrench, but thanks for showing me subaru.spx.com. i'll be keeping an eye on that thread. i've made some mopar specific tools that have saved me a ton of cash! 20-27, huh? i hope i can squeeze more than that outta my hatch by the time i'm done with this spfi, that's my real commuter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 about the 97's changes, sounds just like what i read on endwrench from a link in the usrm. that's what i was going by. i don't have the car here to tell mfg date, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigbusa Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 97 legacy wagon ej22, auto trans, 180k miles 1. what's the difference between the neoprene and saturated nitrile timing belts? why are nitrile belts designated ca parts? does it matter which one i use? i live in ca but my car is originally from wa. 2. do i need to replace the tensioner or anything else when i replace the timing belt or are those idlers still trustworthy at this age with an interference engine? dumb question? i hope not, that stuff is expensive!! If you're doing the job yourself, you can decide if the idlers and cog gear need replacing by checking them out thoroughly. I can't imagine going through all the work of replacing a timing belt and not replacing the idlers though. Check ebay and get a complete kit that includes everything you need. Under $200. 3. is there anywhere that i can buy the cam sprocket wrench for my car and if so how much/where? You don't need one! How often will you need it? Once?! Be creative and use something in your garage like a oil filter rubber strap wrench or go buy a chain wrench. 4. the lights for my air/heat control and my shifter aren't working, but all the rest work fine as well as the dimmer. easy bulb change or bigger problem? 5. i've read the published fuel efficiency ratings for this car, but what should i realistically expect out of it on 89octane (mid grade) with 180k and a complete tuneup? If it's like mine... expect 15mpg city. 6. my air/heat control has a couple sticky buttons, they don't like to go in or come back out, and the slider doesn't like to stay on the hot side. has anyone else had this issue? i'm thinking it all just needs to be cleaned. Use lots of brake clean and work the switches in and out while you spray. the wife and i are lovin this car!! Good luck with the new car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
four-fleet-feet Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 97 legacy wagon ej22, auto trans, 180k miles 4. the lights for my air/heat control and my shifter aren't working, but all the rest work fine as well as the dimmer. easy bulb change or bigger problem? 6. my air/heat control has a couple sticky buttons, they don't like to go in or come back out, and the slider doesn't like to stay on the hot side. has anyone else had this issue? i'm thinking it all just needs to be cleaned. the wife and i are lovin this car!! Well, of course you love your new Subie. D'oh! That said, here's my 2 cents. 4. Bulb change on the controls is a bear but it can be done. Be good to yourself and CHANGE THEM ALL. Getting the control unit out is the hardest part - why do it again if you don't need to? Test each bulb after putting it in to make sure it was just a burned out bulb. Good? Lights? Go on to the next one. 6. Sticky buttons? I'd say your controls had a dose of sticky soda at least once. You can carefully take it apart and scrub it down with a gentle degreaser and an old soft toothbrush and light cotton cloth (Dawn comes to mind, or something like Formula 409 - I don't know that I'd pull out the stronger degreasers for this). Keep the pieces as dry as possible - don't saturate and dunk them! The slider might be a different issue - after all, we Washingtonians do have to make use of the 'hot' side of the selector more often than you Californians! You might be able to tell more once it's off and cleaned. Hopefully someone who's had to take one off can tell you exactly what they did. I stopped at cleaning my wheels - mine doesn't have a slider - and that took care of my *sticky* issue. If this was a smoking car, and the issue is nicotine residue, Cottonelle wet wipes or nonoily baby wipes get that yellow nicotine goop off fast with no sloppy wet water to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 4. the lights for my air/heat control and my shifter aren't working, but all the rest work fine as well as the dimmer. easy bulb change or bigger problem? Egads! Well it took me several attempts through the course of the day, but I finally found the post that had a link to a write up on how to change these bulbs. I haven't tried this (I'm still counting buttons in the dark with my fingers), and it is on my laundry list, but it's pretty far down there. http://www.randomsoup.com/how_acpanelbulbs.html Original post- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&highlight=vent+lights Will- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I have had good success using a spray bottle of Windex to clean around sticky climate control buttons and the temp slider. I used a paper towell to wipe up the Windex. If the drink holder is sticky, it can be removed and cleaned by removing two screws just behind the facing. Again Windex did a good job of cleaning up sticky soda residue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Both timing belts fit. One has a longer service interval. I like to change the tensioners at the 200,000 mile belt change. But if they aren't leaking grease loose or noisy you coudl reuse them. If the tensioner isn't leaking it's good to reuse. Subaru sells the wrench. You really don't need it. I use an air impact gun to break the cam bolts loose. If some work it's just bulbs. These usually get 25-30 mpg if all is well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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