slideshow86 Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 The person that was going to help me with my ea81 w/ weber over to my house, can not make it for a week. I got the car pretty much bare and have never even seen an ea81 before. I dont know where things go and what I need and dont need. I remember a few things that he explained I needed to do on the swap but dont remember the rest I have the block off things for both exhaust, egr b/s I have the climate control figured out. I have that one large compression fitting/bolt on the back of intake manifold figured out. I have the power brake booster figured out I have the vacume advance figured out I have the pass side coolant line figure out but not the driver side? It seems to be blocked off on the new intake manifold? I wish there were people closer that knew these ea81's I have a few cut wires and dont have the slightest clue where they go? I need a few pictures from you guys under the hood of a weber swap, PLEASE. Just not sure what im doing. I know its simple but just want to do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Try and ask more direct questions, I had trouble following your train of thought through your description. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 Sorry, very tired I need an over head view of the manifold and a pic of the fuel line/ return line/ filter ect. mayber a pic from drivers side and pass side? I guess as many pix as possible will help? I am going to just print them and try to finish it. Thanks a bunch guys! trying to make this thing go tomorrow! Jess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 Bump Sorry, just trying to get this done today.... Jess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 This is all I got left without going out and taking more pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 This might help Weber install Its on a Suzie but Here is another http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/...weber-all.html If you search for a poster named Cameron he had an excellent write on this also Hope this helps, you might take a look in the USRM, Ultimat Subaru Repair Manual (se link top of page) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 Ok. The manifold I got has a few things capped? Not knowing where things go I didnt know to pull all the caps off. This waterline is capped and I dont know If its required or can be capped off? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 I'll suit up and go out and get a shot of this area now. I hope it will help. Back in a few as it's cold and raining/sleeting outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 The coolant line in question is 1/4". It's there only to heat the bottom of the carb for emissions puposes. Warm air mixes more readily with fuel and so more vapor is formed, and fewer droplets go unburned. This reduces tailpipe emissions GREATLY in a carb. That line has a device in it that can regulate coolant flow to the bottom of the carb base - it's a bolt looking "T" shaped business. This allows pressure directly off the water pump's heater core bypass to circulate coolant through the manifold. You can block it if you wish, but realize that your emissions will increase as more unburned fuel will escape out the tailpipe. It will also affect your mileage to a degree. It also heats the carb to prevent iceing. Although that is only a problem in cold climates. Subaru generally knew what they were doing with this stuff - you would be wise to leave as much of the stock equipment working as possible with the Weber. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Okay here goes, had to clear quite a bit of the whitechit off the hood to get it open, please ignore the grime. This is the best shot I could get of the area you point out. IF the hose in question is the hose pointed out here... Yes it is plumbed as GD explains. This Brat has been in use for several years like this in all forms of weather. Hope this helps, my hands are freezing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Thanks soo much guys for the help! I got every thing assembled and she fired up! Problem im having now is timing. Never timed one of these ea81's I know the ea82 is a little different than a normal car. I searched the forum last night for about an hour for timing to no avail. She idles great but no power when throttle is applied. When I throw a timing light on there I cant even see the numbers on the flywheel. So I set the flywheel to 0deg, with the #1 piston at tdc and the rotor facing the #1 sparkplug. Fire it up and it wont even start? hmm The p.o. Has everything set up wrong, it gives me nothing to go off of. As soon as I find the correct firing order and timing, this pig is going to run! I really wish I had a book for this damn thing. Thanks Jess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 And still, all I find for timing is just to set it to 8 deg btdc. I cant find exact steps how to time an ea81, as if we were working on a long block. There is another line on the flywheel. The p.o. has this line marked w/ white nail polish. It has nothing to do w/ the timing marks, any idea what it is? Is it like the 3 marks on an ea82?? If anyone has this info, it would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 TDC on #1 with flywheel at 0 (both valves closed). Turn flywheel BACK to 8 BTDC. Insert distributor so rotor is pointing at a plug wire tower on the cap - this will be your #1 plug wire tower. Install plug wires 1-3-2-4 in a counter-clockwise orientation starting at the tower you chose for #1. Verify the timeing with a light. Should be about 8 degrees without vacuum advance at 750 RPM. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 And still, all I find for timing is just to set it to 8 deg btdc. I cant find exact steps how to time an ea81, as if we were working on a long block. Do you mean verifying valve timing? Relation of Cam to Crank? GD, or any pushrod old schooler guys, how is that checked with engine in car?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 thanks soo much GD, I was hoping I would have someone like you chime in. Heading out there now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Thanks again. Goin to get gas and drive it on the back 40. I didnt make it down to get tabs for the damn thing yesterday so it cant see pavement till monday. Heres a quick video, idles great, good throttle response and no dieseling on shut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 GD, or any pushrod old schooler guys, how is that checked with engine in car?? You watch the valves while turning the engine over. You have to know when things are supposed to open, valve overlap, etc. Compression check will tell you right away usually just as it would with an EA82. Valve timing is gear driven - if it's off then you have BIG problems. I have never seen one that was incorrect. The timing marks on the gears are pretty obvious. They are behind the bell-housing. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Well it seemed to run good enough for a test run. I took it out on the back lot. It had alot of hessitation between 1st and 2nd. I stopped and my roommate messed w/ the mixture screw. It was kinda stumbleing on idle. It ran ok just no power, we went over a few things and seems cool up to like 2500 in 1st. Tested 4hi and low and they work. On the way back it woulndt idle. Still lots of hessitation just driving. When I got back I plugged the vac advance and shot time. Now its at like 18deg advance? WTF I just set it to 10deg advance? So I bump it down to 10 and it is really ruff. I just cant get it to idle correctly and theres no power? Im missing somthing. Ive been at this all day. The drivers side motor mount is shot and the eng is rocking bad when stumbling and running ruff. Changing that out tonight when it shows up. (30 mins) TDC on #1 with flywheel at 0 (both valves closed). Turn flywheel BACK to 8 BTDC. Insert distributor so rotor is pointing at a plug wire tower on the cap - this will be your #1 plug wire tower. Install plug wires 1-3-2-4 in a counter-clockwise orientation starting at the tower you chose for #1. Verify the timeing with a light. Should be about 8 degrees without vacuum advance at 750 RPM. GD Being that I set the rotor at #1 plug at 8deg btdc (not zero), am I to be shooting time for 0? +2 to go to 10btdc and +4 to go to 12btdc? OR shoot for 8-12btdc on the flywheel like normal? It runs too ruff to get it down to 750. It was stable before the test run now I cant get it under control. Im overthinking this...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 You watch the valves while turning the engine over. You have to know when things are supposed to open, valve overlap, etc. Compression check will tell you right away usually just as it would with an EA82. Valve timing is gear driven - if it's off then you have BIG problems. I have never seen one that was incorrect. The timing marks on the gears are pretty obvious. They are behind the bell-housing. GD Would the eng run 180 out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 When I got back I plugged the vac advance and shot time. Now its at like 18deg advance? WTF I just set it to 10deg advance? So I bump it down to 10 and it is really ruff. I just cant get it to idle correctly and theres no power? Im missing somthing. Ive been at this all day. You may have sticking mechanical advance weights in the disty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Check for vacuum leaks again too. Something may have come loose on your drive. You should be using just a plain old timing light. Set it to zero if you have one with the dial and shoot for 8 on the flywheel marks. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Double checked vacuum leaks. Timing must have changed when playing with mixture screw and idle. Reset timing to 10btdc, Im having issues making 100% sure of timing. I cant get it to run smooth enough to stay at 750. Either just over or it will die. Screwing the mixture screw all the way in should lean it out enough to make it die, no?(mine doesnt really do anything screwing it all the way in) I dont really know what im going for when adjusting it, other than I have heard to start at 2 turns out. I guess im just having issues with either timing or jetting or both. I dont know what the carb came off of. I got a redline rebuild kit and installed everything. I used the old jets and installed them as they came out. I dont remember my jet sizes? Damn me.... It seems to idle ok until I throttle on a few times then it will die. During this test drive. It reved much better threw first and better in 2nd, enough so I thought it would push 3rd, but I had to go back to 2nd :-\ Theres just no power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 #1 Secondary air bleed. (should be 170)#2 Primary air bleed. (should be 160) #3 Secondary main jet. (should be 140) #4 Primary main jet. (should be 140) Front screw is the primary idle jet (50 is good) and rear is secondary (50 would be good here too). GD Im pretty sure this is what my jetting is. If this helps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Bump Im soo frustrated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 It's trial and error at this point. Without being there it's hard to say what might be your malfunction. This is just part of owning a Weber. You would be amazed how many posts like this I've seen. Eventually everyone figures it out and dials it in.... more or less. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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