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Need Honest Opinion....Reality Check


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I keep going back and forth about keep trying to fix my XT6 or just part it out

 

Issues:

 

Frame rot ..front..both sides

RockyUnder001.jpg

 

RockyUnder006.jpg

 

 

Its really due for a clutch..even though I have a new/lightly used set up and new flywheel ready for it

 

passenger door shot..pass fender shot...lots of ugly going on under it..needs at least 2 axles..has a stalling problem that just wont go away..pass side seat belt ( on the floor ) is only there for show.

 

Basically the only thing it has going for it is the super low mileage SOA crate motor sitting under the hood..and we all know those ER27s are about worthless.

 

Yes the car runs great..handles good..Has ALOT of new parts in it ..brand new starter,windshield, alt, battery tires plety of extras..spare ditsy another alt..extra pods ..like mentioned extra clutch set up.

 

Heres the scoop..I pretty much gave my 93 Imp to someone and in return they were supposed to take the XT6 to the body shop..get it on the lift and fix the frame...well that was in Nov ..its now the end of Feb and I still have nothing ..I have marked it in my book of being screwed..AGAIN..so now I am out the 93 Imp ( which I sold for basically $700 ..the peron I sold it too gave me $200 so there is still $500 outstanding) . Then this person gets fired from body shop..and say opening thier own..this was in early Jan..

 

Now I did have another member offer to look at the frame and see about repairing in..but in all honesty..There is no way of getting the car off the ground high enough here to repir a frame...and I know this person has the same basic welder set up I do and I dont think its strong enough for a structural repair.

So here is the reality check...

 

Give up on this POS XT6 and part it out and junk whats left?

 

I want honest opinions..not the whole "You have so much work into it" etc.

I am willing to cut my losses ..and then when the 83 coupe gets here I can concentrate efforts into that.

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i will give you 250 bucks for it, and pick it up on the first leg of the BABE rally. the car deserves it.

 

if you would be serious to entertain the notion, send me a

PM

 

i was going to take my sedan, but i can trade it to you for its weight in parts(dual range, rx struts)

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Connie,

Have you entertained the idea of doing some of your own body work? How does it feel structural wise? I don't think it would be too hard of a fix. Maybe just jacking it up and giving it some work can put off the inevitable for the XT6.

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Connie,

Have you entertained the idea of doing some of your own body work? How does it feel structural wise? I don't think it would be too hard of a fix. Maybe just jacking it up and giving it some work can put off the inevitable for the XT6.

 

LOL Kyle...jacking up that car is a trick in itself..non of the jack points will carry its wieght..you have to use the A arms...and ramps.Regular body work ..everyone knows I wont shy away from..but structural I will. I mean I have seen far worse still being driven...I know mine probably has a few more years left in it...I just dont want to invest too much more effort into a lost cause. Last time I drove it ( last week) it felt like it was dragging an anchor..the clutch has about had it...and the lovely mystery stalling issue that we cannot solve..just drove me nuts. I have this pretty little Cosmic Blue Coupe coming from out west that is going to be taking my time and efforts:):):):):) and I really just dont want to be bothing someone else. There is one member who has successfully repaired these frames but he is oober oober busy and I dont want to bother anyone with the problem.The car was intended to be a winter beater when I got it..I made the mistake of actually growing to like the thing ( I hated it at first if y'all remember:lol:)

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Wow! That XT6 needs alot of serious structural reconditioning. Even if a person has the knowledge and skill to do that kinda work, I cant imagine it would be much fun or even very rewarding when you are done. I mean, after all that time, money and work, the XT6 will still look the same. I hear your New Blue Coupe is straight and rust free. Any other repairs or upgrades it may need You could do yourself in your own time. To me, thats important. I would send the XT6 packin' and concentrate on that sweet little coupe.

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It make me sad to think you might junk it. I'm truely sorry for you're loss:(

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dibs on the 5 lug bits!!!!:headbang:

 

Just kidding. Really it is sad. I think you should do one of 2 things

 

1. Fix the frame rot now, and then keep it outta the salt

 

2. Decide it' a lot cause, keep driving it as a winter car for a few more years(my 86 GL trubo from wisconsin was WAAAAAAAAAY worse than that when I finally junked)

 

Then for the love of god, when you part it, get everything. Motor, trans, ECU, Harness, *Cybrid* pump, dash, headlights, and of course, suspension

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Simple fix for the situation. Park the XT6 when you get the coupe and find a clean no rust XT6 out here for cheap and have it shipped back there when you can afford it. Then you've got a complete running parts car available when it shows up.:) Until then go enjoy the Isles run for the playoffs :popcorn::headbang: and relax. Frank

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Simple fix for the situation. Park the XT6 when you get the coupe and find a clean no rust XT6 out here for cheap and have it shipped back there when you can afford it. Then you've got a complete running parts car available when it shows up.:) Until then go enjoy the Isles run for the playoffs :popcorn::headbang: and relax. Frank

LOL Thanks Frank..and the Isles are gonna give us a heart attack here..loose 11 in a row..win 6..1 point out GRRRR!!!

I just cant wait to get out there and see and bond with my coupe..you say its nice:grin: ( 45 days!!)

Turbone keeps teasing me..sends me pics of the little bad things..All I can say is..nobody better touch my louvers!!!:grin::grin::grin::slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber::slobber:EA81 cope louvers...now how rare is that??

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There is another option too that ill throw out there. Last time i was at Charlies he had an XT and an XT6 in his yard. Both looked pretty nice as far as rust goes. I didnt actually crawl underneith them though to find out for sure. You might want to call him up and see. Maybe use your engine and tranny in another better body..that way the heart of Rocky can live on.

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LEA81 coupe louvers...now how rare is that??

 

Rare enough for me to want a set of sedan louvers..as long as they dont rattle around a ************load. My old IROC had rear window louvers to start out with and i hated the things. Did nothing but rattle above 100mph :lol:

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Steve..anything thats been sitting in weeds for any length of time is going to have issues..rodents etc..If I transplant its going to be into something cherry. I have learned my lesson..No East Coast cars for projects.

 

( And so the west coasters know..the coupe is going to be garage kept;))

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Get a cheap XT4 and do a total swap. Easier than body work if you can't jack the car up, and it can take as long as it needs once you have the EA81 coupe.

OR

get the EA81 coupe, gut the underside, POR15 it and reassemble, and then once it's back on the road you can worry about the XT6. The XT6 is only worth a few hundred right now, so use that as a license to worry about it later :P (or 5-lug the coupe! do it!)

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My old IROC had rear window louvers to start out with and i hated the things. Did nothing but rattle above 100mph :lol:

 

Well no danger in the Coupe's ever rattling then! :grin:

 

Connie, as much $hi+ as you've gone thru with Rocky, it'd be a shame to scrap him. Since the rust isn't unsafe, I say, slap the clutch in, and drive him until it is. Keep the miles off Hollister.

I know that you're in the same boat I'm in with my Pinto. I love that car, but it's getting unreliable, and rusty in the bad places. The big difference being that the motor in my Pinto has worn out 2 bodies. Rocky's body has worn out one motor, working on his second. I've agonized over what to do with my Pinto, I've come to the conclusion, that I'm gonna drive my Lil' Darlin until she just flat croaks. Then it's off to the crusher with her.

 

Best wishes on whatever you decide to do, and you'll have my support no matter what.

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Paul..that would be all fine if the car was reliable..but .hate to say it...it has been one of the worst cars I have ever owned..next to my Ford EXP.I barely trust running it the 10 miles round trip into town. And when I do take it out..if its running good I will just keep running it in a loop just to run it. Its not alot of fun driving a car when you are constantly afraid its going to let you sit. I mean I like the car and I hate it at the same time..I hate to say it ..but it has left a bad taste in my mouth towards them..dont know if I would really want another..its like the SVXs..after all the major issues I see that owners have with them...makes me never ever want one.

And now my husband is pulling his " Its in my name and its not for sale" crap..so I handed it over to him..its his problem..so that means its going to sit and be the rodent motel it already is. I cant see why I am not allowed to recoupe some of the money I am out from the bad sale of a car and all I have invested into the XT6 ..why should I get anything back.♠

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This was my 86 GL-10.

 

And it spent the first ten years in Colorado!

 

It was still pretty solid, I would kept drivin it as a beater, but the motor croaked. This was taken the day I sent it to the crusher. Notice it's sitting on the ground.

 

DSCF0084.jpg

 

DSCF0085.jpg

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If you want to keep it, you'll have to do the work yourself I would say.

 

You already have a welder that will do the trick. Remember - it's not about the size of the welder - it's how many passes you make, and the prep work you do. You can weld 1/2" plate with a 110 box if you build the joints correctly and make the right passes cleaning as you go.

 

If you don't already have it, get a gas bottle with 70/30 for mild steel. It will allow your little welded better penetration and easily give you the ability to weld the sheet metal of the unibody.

 

For your first welder project, build a small sheet metal break - here's a simple plan:

 

http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf

 

Invest in a small compressor - it will come in handy for sooooo many things. Air tools are cheap, and make fast work of cutting, grinding, etc. This will also allow you to get a sandblaster setup to take that rust off and really see what you are working with.

 

With a bit of investment, you can up your level of autorepair to a whole new level. We all know you can do it - you just need a push to take the leap.

 

GD

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WOW GD..your reply actually shocked me...even though I was actually waiting for a reply from you. I felt for sure I would get the "get what you can and run" from you..wow:eek: ( not thats its a bad thing..cause even though you are openly opinionated..9 times out of 10 your right)

 

This gas bottle you talk about...my Lincoln Electric isnt set up to take gas..so how would that work?? Plus even though its says for up to 1/8th inch..if the bead is done right it can do 1/2? I need to find a source for scrap metal...I have welded some stainless together so far and fixed the wire reindeer ..and need to weld the exhaust on my dirt bike.

 

I would just have to find a way to get it high enough in the air to work on it.:-\.

 

Hummmm maybe I will try this...whats the worst that can happen..screw up and the car gets junked?? Its heading that way if something isnt done soon anyway.:)

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I need to find a source for scrap metal...I have welded some stainless together so far and fixed the wire reindeer ..and need to weld the exhaust on my dirt bike.

Bucky, if you're able to get a good set of dimensions off the frame rails and send it to me I'll get a set waterjet cut out of stainless and bent on the brake for you... Would hate to see Rocky just sittin'

Cost shouldn't be too bad, I can probably find some left over metal sitting 'round the shop here.

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Stainless is a pain in the butt to weld. You need tri-mix gas for it, and it's very sensitive to welder settings. Once you get it down it flows like butter because it's got no carbon, but without the right gas, and without a lot of practice, it's not what I would reccomend for this job. The welds are going to be half stainless and half mild anyway so they would rust up again. I would use mild steel.

 

I think you can get a conversion kit for the Lincoln that will allow the use of gas with it. Check ebay and Lincoln's web site.

 

As for jacking it up - use the engine cross-member, and the rear diff. Those should still be solid right?

 

If they aren't, use that welder to build some jacking plates that will spread the load of the jack (or stands) and allow you to get it off the ground. Find some local scrap steel yards and peruse their inventory.

 

It CAN be done, and you CAN do it. It's just a matter of taking small bites at a time. First get it off the ground, then worry about what's under there. It might be a year or two before you can drive it again, but the learning experience will be worth the investment.

 

GD

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I second what GD says.

 

And will add:

 

Welding over head is going to be a challenge.

Practice practice practice on the ground first.

Learn to watch and move the puddle.

 

Car ramps for all four wheels might get you high enough.

 

Jack as GD says and put the ramps under the tires.

 

I know you'll lift the carpet again before

welding the frame rails.

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i'm wondering the same things myself connie. not sure if i feel like fixing some of the things on mine or just buying another. thing is, XT6's are so cheap it's hard for me to justify putting tons of work into one.

 

i know you've talked about that rust about 1,344,322 times but i still can't remember where it all is. if it's the frame rails that's not terrible. if it's all around the back where the rear subframe mounts or that subframe itself is rusted then that's more difficult - although you could get an entire subframe to put back up under there....if the body is good enough to bolt it too.

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i don't know how relevant this will be, but in the interest of lending another opinion...

 

i bought a 62 dodge dart stationwagon awhile back. my grandfather drove one just like it and my father loves the car, too. it wasn't running when it arrived but i figured since it came from az, the body oughta be alright. EVERY floor pan is gone and there's some frame rot where the rails bend up under the firewall, this thing is a stinkin flinstone's replica!!:lol: obviously not originally an az car!

 

add some title issues, outta state tax conflicts, and i thought i had a good parts car. after totally stripping the int, pulling that polyhead and 727, and snooping around with a wire brush, i realized it was totally fixable and since then i've gotten a clear title and strightened out all the legal crap.

 

i love my dart even though i've never got to drive it, so that's a major difference in our situations. i think the more important fact is that we both seem to be interested in our cars enough to continue looking for justification and a way to fix them. it seems as though you like the car enough to keep arguing against logic here, so i'd say just fix it.

 

i'd also support the idea that you do it yourself. this may be the only way that you'll feel all the time/trouble/money is worthwhile cuz if you do it yourself, not only will the sentimental attachment have opportunity to grow, but if you're anything like i am, you'll be more able to trust the car.

 

btw, i'm doing my sheetmetal work with a 14 year old clarke turbo weld gas/no gas mig (that i inherited from said grandfather) even though i've been laughed at by guys with expensive millers/lincolns. the box isn't eveything - its all in how its used!

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