TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 When trying to drop my motor back in my car today, the mounts wont fall into the crossmember. It looks like the studs are about an inch too far forward? Im almost positive I have the mounts on the right sides, but I cant find any images to show me. And the R - L is missleading, as im not sure if they mean right side while looking at the front or rear of the motor. Anyone have any tips? -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 We just put a C.C.R. block in my postal Subaru and we run into the same thing, we over came it by jacking the transmission as high as we could to get motor and transmission together good, and then used a hammer and pipe and drove the mount back until they fell in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Yes - jack on the transmission, and hoist on the engine. Let the engine down till the studs are touching and then drive the studs into the holes with a big flat-blade screwdriver and a hammer. When I got my SS the PO was having the same problem and the engine was just sitting on top of the x-member. 10 minutes and I had it back in. This sometimes happens on the EA engines as well. Depends on the condition of the mounts. The EJ22T mounts are real tough, so you have to put some weight on them while you pound them toward the hole. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Yeah these are new mounts. Im sure they are on the right side's... just looks like its an inch too far forward. I used a jack under the tranny when attatching the motor to it. now that the motor is bolted to the tranny, the only thing supporting it is the hoist. I tried leaning into the hoist to get alittle extra movement, but it wont budge. I guess i'll try the prybar tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 if it won't fit get a bigger hammer? I thought "new" parts always fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 if it won't fit get a bigger hammer? I thought "new" parts always fit Of course they do. You cant use any old hammer, you use a "calibrated" hammer nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Anyone have any other tips other than "making it fit" Its going to be tough to get that inch back, even with a 3' prybar. -Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 loosen the tranny mount bolts /nuts to let it move back a bit?? I will assume the dogbone is not fitted yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Dogbone was never removed. Its a real PITA to get to anything under the engine bay. Subaru did a good job of stuffing as much as they could in there... no clue how I'll get the flexplate bolts back or the 2 bottom engine bolts. I'd hate to start disconnecting more stuff cause i know its going to be a b!tch to get it all reconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilDead Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Can ya lift the front of the car up a little bit. That might help to achieve the angle you desire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Brian, Sir Sorry, but you did ask for suggestions the dogbone is one bolt and nut It could be preventing the movement you need. Maybe if you showed a picture of your install (top mounted AWIC?) it would help prevent these nebulous replies (suggestions). I said loosen not remove the tranny mount bolts/nuts I have two of these turbo wagons, and have not seen all these problems. (never had an engine out of one yet though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I second Skip on that one. I had the same problem last summer when I replaced my clutch. With the dogbone unbolted (simple to do and undo) you'll get the movement you need to line up the engine mounts bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 yeah, makes sense to do that. i'll let everyone know how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STi 22B Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Hey Brian... From what I recall (as I'm at work atm till he 13th of March) when you are looking at the mounts, while you have your head under the car and lying on your back, the mounting bracket sticks out longer as it points forward and on the mount there is a support tab (that stops the mount from tearing the rubber section appart) this should be point out towards the chassis rails. The mounting bracket should have a L or R marked on it, this should be looked at as if you are in the drivers position (looking forward). Which meens in your country (LHD) the L bracket will be on the drivers side. I have found in the past to try and put one side (the threaded section) of the mount in the slotted hole, then lower the engine just until the other side touches the cross member, then with a pry or flat bladed screwdriver (fairly long for leverage) move the rubber section of the mount so the thread pops into the slotted hole. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyKeith Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 I'm about 90% certain you just need to take off the dog bone, and my bet is that when you go to take it off you're going to have a fight getting the bolt out because of the pressure on it. I went through this when swapping the 2.5 for the 2.2 in my 96. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 If you take out the pitch stopper (dogbone) they usually fall right in. Jack under the trans as high as you can get it, drop engine in, slide the studs in, install top bolts and tighten, drop and remove hoist, drop the jack under the trans and the studs usually fall into the holes. If they are off a bit (an inch isn't much) do the big screwdriver/prybar and hammer to drive them back some, they will drop right in without a lot of hammering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 Dogbone. Don't quite understand why the engine comes out o.k. without it unbolted but won't go back in until you unbolt it and adjust the jack under the tranny. I was stubborn at first. But that was the cure for me. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 The engine comes out because it's being pulled out by the hoist. Next time watch the motor it jumps forward a bit when it clears the mounts. The first time this happened to me I was for a long time. but yeah the dogbone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 Yup, solved my problem too. Makes sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 no clue how I'll get the flexplate bolts back Use the hole up top, stuff a rag down in there so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall down inside the bell housing, and use a telescoping magnet to get the bolt in. Once you get a bolt in, thread it in like 2 or 3 turns and rotate the engine and put the next one in, then once all 4 are in, tighten them. If you tighten one before all 4 are in, usually the last one won't go in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Use the hole up top, stuff a rag down in there so if you drop the bolt it doesn't fall down inside the bell housing, and use a telescoping magnet to get the bolt in. Once you get a bolt in, thread it in like 2 or 3 turns and rotate the engine and put the next one in, then once all 4 are in, tighten them. If you tighten one before all 4 are in, usually the last one won't go in. That is excatly right. I never tighten any bolts on anything until they are all started. Also if a bolt is frozen try to make it move by tightening it. You'll be surprised how easy it moves in the tightening direction. Then it's just as easy to loosen it. Works most of the time. Great way to loosen brake bleeders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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