audio_file Posted March 15, 2008 Author Share Posted March 15, 2008 this week's update: i got my heads back monday but i've got a little honing to do in 2 cylinders before i can reattach them, so here they sit . . . and then, went to a wrecking yard where i knew a spider intake was waiting for me, i just wasn't sure the wiring was going to match up until i looked at it again, sure enough!!!! (after the TD04 turbo, this is the most exciting purchase for the RX so far . . .) i also removed the entire interior. there are several severe water leaks caused by the poor installation of a windshield years ago (also caused the extensive rust to the a-pillar) and the carpet smells moldy and is stained with minerals, but i was very happy to see no rust in the floorboards. . . now i've got to try to reverse the effects of years of mildew and water on the original grey carpet. i'm planning to take it to a Laundromat and use an industrial washer with a bunch of oxyclean, unless somebody has a better idea for me (help!!!! ) chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 this week's update: i got my heads back monday but i've got a little honing to do in 2 cylinders before i can reattach them, so here they sit . . . and then, went to a wrecking yard where i knew a spider intake was waiting for me, i just wasn't sure the wiring was going to match up until i looked at it again, sure enough!!!! (after the TD04 turbo, this is the most exciting purchase for the RX so far . . .) i also removed the entire interior. there are several severe water leaks caused by the poor installation of a windshield years ago (also caused the extensive rust to the a-pillar) and the carpet smells moldy and is stained with minerals, but i was very happy to see no rust in the floorboards. . . now i've got to try to reverse the effects of years of mildew and water on the original grey carpet. i'm planning to take it to a Laundromat and use an industrial washer with a bunch of oxyclean, unless somebody has a better idea for me (help!!!! ) chris Take the carpet to one of the power car wash places. That way you can lay it out and use the wand on it. Start looking to replace all the hoses/rubber lines you find that are dried out and brittle. All the turbo cooling lines should be replaced with silicone ones, not totally necessary but I recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted March 16, 2008 Author Share Posted March 16, 2008 thank you, i'll pre-treat it and try that . . . i will replace pretty much every replaceable line, i was wondering if those hard oil lines to the turbo should be replaced with something larger, maybe braided(?) or are they sufficient from the factory- they just seem very small in diameter . . . Take the carpet to one of the power car wash places. That way you can lay it out and use the wand on it. Start looking to replace all the hoses/rubber lines you find that are dried out and brittle. All the turbo cooling lines should be replaced with silicone ones, not totally necessary but I recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 The best thing for the oil supply lines is to get a cooler installed. I havent done it to mine yet, but I'm thinking about it. I need to run it hard for a little bit and borrow someones digi temp sensor and check the temp on the turbo and oil lines. Also keeping temps dow in the engine bay helps. I usually run with out my stock skidplate, except when I RallyX. Gets better air flow. Find a hood scoop, wrap the turbo (my next project). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 For cleaning the carpet ( I used to own an auto detail shop BTW ) Simple Green and Tide..hot water..and a scrub brush.. The Simple Green will help get the grease out ..and the Tide..well..think about your clothes. I did mine for my XT6 in the back yard with a pressure washer and a shop vac. A little trick to help it from getting too stiff while it dries..use liguid Fabric softner..will also help it smell fresh I hung mine over the picnic benches..soaked it with a bucket or 2 of HOT water..then sprayed the greasy stained spots with the simple green..let it soak while I mixed another bucket of hot water with the laundry detergent. Then scrubbed the carpet using a stiff plastic brush..dipping frequently in the bucket. Took the pressure washer and then rinsed ( no it did not blow the insulation off the back) ..rinsed and repeat...then I mixed another bucket of cold water with fabric softner..and re-soaked the carpet..Let sit for a few minutes then sucked as muuch moisture out of the carpet as possible...then hung to dry the rest of the way...Once completely dry I took the brush ( clean and dry) and brushed the nap back. Turns out looking like new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 The best thing for the oil supply lines is to get a cooler installed. I havent done it to mine yet, but I'm thinking about it. I need to run it hard for a little bit and borrow someones digi temp sensor and check the temp on the turbo and oil lines. Also keeping temps dow in the engine bay helps.I usually run with out my stock skidplate, except when I RallyX. Gets better air flow. Find a hood scoop, wrap the turbo (my next project). Hey Rob, I can cover you on the digital temp stuff. I sent you a PM with how to contact me if you're interested. Abe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 re-assembled the heads today!!! mounted them up and it looks like i have an engine again!! no probs with re-torquing the head-bolts at all, the torque specs in the FSM for the cam housing seemed really low though (something like 20nm) but, i followed the directions so . . . took the spider intake apart to check hoses and clean out the 3/4" of sludge that was inside, will reassemble tomorrow . . . now it's time to spend some more $$ need to purchase: 1)wrx downpipe 2)bov 3)boost controller 4)clutch kit (i got in on the .02 special, but only got the disk, and i'm kindof a freak about keeping brands together, so i'd rather find a complete set instead of just buying a pressure plate :-\ besides, i found one by exedy. exedy=cooler ) 5)intercooler piping, i think it sounds like 2.5" is best, and i don't need much . . . 6)fuel pump 7)higher flow injectors (maybe, from what i've read, RX injectors and cpu are capable of close to 300lph stock, can someone verify this or tell me i'm wrong please?!) 8)depending on fuel pump/injector situation, maybe a piggyback fuel management system to keep flow rates correct . . . 9)gauges- boost/vac, exhaust temp, water temp, maybe air/fuel mixture (again depending on if i need to use piggyback system or if RX brains can figure everything out) 10)MSD ignition gear, probably just their uni replacement coil and wires . . . sheesh, talk about spending more on a car then its worth (to NADA) . . . any help/suggestions/deals on my shopping list would be very appreciated chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Keep an eye on NASIOC for the TD04 DP. If nothing shows, try some of the local tuning shops. You will also need the TD04 flange from a up-pipe, that needs to be welded to the EA82T one. Get a recirc valve instead of a BOV. Its to much rice. The size of the IC piping from the turbo is 2in, the rest is 2.5, so you will need a reducer. If you get a MBC, dont scimp! You can get a nice Hallman on Ebay for around $80. If you do intend to up the boost right away, you will need the bigger injectors and it would help to have a adjustable fuel regulator. Not sure if a bigger FP is needed yet. Maybe if you get past 14psi. Definatly get some good gauges. I used a A pillar setup for a WRX. Just had to trim a little on the bottom to clear the door panel. I have a boost gauge (my light still works too), a oil pressure and water temp gauge. The sending units will be SAE, so you will need to re-tap the oil pump and the water threads. Its real easy, just take your time. A/F gauge is a good idea, but I dont run one...yet. I'm running a MSD coil, NGK Iridium plugs, NGK wires and Royal Purple syn oil. You probably dont want to run the synthetic oil tho, unless you replace all the seals and gaskets before hand. Oh, you might not pass emissions after all this. Keep that in mind if you need to get it tested. The test results are good for a year, so get it done before you make the upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 downpipe, screw the stock WRX one, you can get decent bellmouth 3" pipes for $160. I picked up a new Megan Racing a couple years ago for $150 shipped from a vendor on NASIOC. intercooler piping. Samco y-pipe hose and IC -> TB hose can be had for reasonable. Makes custom piping a whole lot easier. I have many pics of my old setup as well. Also used a AEM cold air intake from a WRX that I made work too. boost controller, manuals suck, end of story. Go electronic. Also get a turbo timer too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one eye Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Chris no update pics? I got a couple today this is what it looks like now Hope you like em I don't have anything to add just these pictures:) Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 car's gonna be registered in Skagit County (no testy ) i've already got the up-pipe for the flange, and i've talked to my exhaust guy about the welding (want to lift and rotate turbo slightly to reduce clearance issues) sounds like i'm going to go electronic with a few things, the boost controller (per caboobaroo, and you ) and fuel management . . . $$$ will the stock WRX recirc valve that came attatched to the wrx intercooler work? Keep an eye on NASIOC for the TD04 DP. If nothing shows, try some of the local tuning shops. You will also need the TD04 flange from a up-pipe, that needs to be welded to the EA82T one.Get a recirc valve instead of a BOV. Its to much rice. The size of the IC piping from the turbo is 2in, the rest is 2.5, so you will need a reducer. If you get a MBC, dont scimp! You can get a nice Hallman on Ebay for around $80. If you do intend to up the boost right away, you will need the bigger injectors and it would help to have a adjustable fuel regulator. Not sure if a bigger FP is needed yet. Maybe if you get past 14psi. Definatly get some good gauges. I used a A pillar setup for a WRX. Just had to trim a little on the bottom to clear the door panel. I have a boost gauge (my light still works too), a oil pressure and water temp gauge. The sending units will be SAE, so you will need to re-tap the oil pump and the water threads. Its real easy, just take your time. A/F gauge is a good idea, but I dont run one...yet. I'm running a MSD coil, NGK Iridium plugs, NGK wires and Royal Purple syn oil. You probably dont want to run the synthetic oil tho, unless you replace all the seals and gaskets before hand. Oh, you might not pass emissions after all this. Keep that in mind if you need to get it tested. The test results are good for a year, so get it done before you make the upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Yeah, the stock one will work. What days and times do you have free? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 RX Meet 2008 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86491 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 Yeah, the stock one will work.What days and times do you have free? schedule's pretty jam packed, lets see. . . i'm available monday thru sunday, 9am to 9pm ah the beauty of unemployment . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 I have to go to Oly today to look at a car. Maybe I can make a run north tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Put my pull-a-part hatch on today, removed the "Subaru DL" logo and cleaned it up a bit . . . Before . . . After . . . Looks sooo much cleaner, now i've just got to decide if I want to clean up the rubber spoiler (strip cracking stained paint off and have it repainted) and put it back on, or leave the rear this way, suggestions????? chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 putting the finishing bits onto my EA82T imported and now rebuilt engine. i have a question about the spider intake i'm mounting on it. . . how do you get the thermostat housing's rear line (from throttle body area) to not interfere with the "legs" on the spider as they bolt to the top of the injector housing?! (see pics) clickey . . . clickey Rob: you'll notice my newly plumbed turbo coolant line (thank you for the info) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hmmm......put the hose on before the intake? :-\ Thats a new one on me. Russ should chime in, he's done a spyder intake before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hmmm......put the hose on before the intake? :-\ Thats a new one on me. Russ should chime in, he's done a spyder intake before. ya know, just after i posted this ? i double checked a pic i took of the intake right after i bought it . . . so, i'm just a moron, trying to put a sensor equipped t-stat housing on an intake manifold that for some reason is different than any other MPFI intake in that regard . . . i wonder what the reasoning was for that part difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 You have the one that came off it, I hope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 You have the one that came off it, I hope? yup, i NEVER throw parts away . . . except whatever the next bolt is that i need- it's always missing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 You can have some of mine. I always have leftovers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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