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How difficult is it to remove the cap (that holds the seal) over the end of the cam with the seal/sprocket drive?

 

If I'm correct, it looks like 2 bolts hold it on (based on the pax side rear of engine - heads being interchangeable and all that). Any danger if I disconnect the cam sensor to take it out?

 

Is there any gasket behind the junction that could leak? Any seal there or just use the anaerobic gasket maker on a metal-to-metal surface?

 

I've got evidence of an oil leak somewhere right there (cam seal didn't appear leaking but I replaced it anyway). The oil saturated the rubber "gasket" behind the timing belt REAR cover (right behind the sprocket between the cover and the head) and that gasket has swelled so it won't "fit" (will replace it)

 

I'm wondering if there is any connection between the sprocket not having the dowel pin "key" and the oil leak? (that oil seems to be coming somewhere in that area - and yeah, I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets - both sides - as well - that's "next")

 

This isn't as bad a job as I thought it would be but these "different" things are slowing me a bit.

 

Oil pump cover plate was loose on 3 screws so loctited all 5 with blue (no idea if the crank seal was "bad" but it got replaced anyway)

 

maybe another 2 hours of work - only because I don't know this engine at all.

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OK - remember noids always come with a friend (it's a "pair-a-noids") :-p

 

I thought the whole cam was moving and I didn't want to pull it out of the head so I just reseated it. The new seal was sure "solid" :cool:

 

The WORST thing that could happen is that I have to go back in and replace the o-ring (that I should have done first anyway) :mad:

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