ericem Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hey. Getting ready. Decided were going to fix up our Subaru legacy after all. Also no the head gaskets aren't bad. I found a decent deal got all the CV's, transmission, and a radiator(mine is leaking) for low mileage (under 50k) $500 need to go get them. So far fixed up the rust sanded all the spots and painted it all well. Just need to get the windshield done. So anyway found the engine crane, a engine holder or w/e you want to call it to let me turn the engine upside down, spring compressor, already have impact tools. Now I need to find the tool with 4 bolts that can grab the harmonic pulley. See how it will grab the pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 If you specifically want the special tool for holding the crank pulley, you can get it from subaru.spx.com IIRC it is about $100. You don't have to have that tool though; there are many other options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Well I have the pulley holder. Still though just bothers me. I think I warmed my rubber a bit using it last time. OR my shaft is warped a bit because when it is idling it is not 100% straight i can see it shiver in and out like 2-3mm. Maybe I can make the tool myself?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I'm sure the tool can be homemade if you have the tools, like a good press brake and welder would be useful. Special Tool 499977000 http://subaru.spx.com/detail.asp?partid=499977000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I guess if you have the engine out of the car you can't use the long-pole-braced-on-a-wall and the starter motor method. If you haven't taken it out yet, you could do this then pull it out. Then once you have it off you can measure for a holder and make one to put it back on with. I did this and brought it into work and made a cad file of the hole spacing which I then burned out on our laser cutter. I believe I still have the file on my computer at work, so if you have access to a welder, I can cut one out for you and send it. All you'll need to do is weld some rod to it for the pulley and another for the handle. If you're interested, PM me. Will- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 i used a strap wrench to hold the HB and i had no problem getting the bolt out like that......just what i do..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I think a lot of it depends on how tight the bolt is in there. On my '00obw I used a chain wrench to hold the pulley and a breaker bar with 3' pipe on it and really lay into it to get it loose. On my '96 I just blocked the flywheel with a small pry bar through the access hole near the throttle body and it backed right off with little effort (which means it was probably loosening up or wasn't torqued enough the previous time it was off). I haven't had much luck with strap wrenches, they just seem to have way too much stretch to them for the crank pulley and cam sprockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 I haven't had much luck with strap wrenches, they just seem to have way too much stretch to them for the crank pulley and cam sprockets. Ditto, all the flex just robs the mechanical advantage. I think a lot does depend on how it was torqued down before, like whether an air-impact was used. Plus, even if you overcome the stretch in a strap wrench and get it off, you still have to get it back on to the proper torque which would be hard to do with something elastic like a strap wrench. But thats just my experience, others seem to have no problems with 'em, i dunno.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 if you take a 7mm allen wrench and put it into one of the holes, then use 1 of 2 breaker bars between the allen and the socket to bear against the socket, you can get the bolt loosened. I don't have a picture but this gives the idea. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8103 trouble is that this pic was one of a slightly different pulley with a "thicker" inner hub. The allen wrench(es - if you use 2 of them) want to rotate out of the holes so I wound up using a visegrip to hold the end of the allen (and needed 3 hands to hold the bar, breaker and visegrip at the same time - time to ask for "assistance") 1/4 inch extensions will FIT the hole but they aren't quite big enough to prevent coming out as torque is applied. You need something closer to the diameter of the holes in the hub to make it work better. The tighter the fit the better I thought about using a "bolt puller" with 2 bolts and nuts as well. Put the bolt-nut combo onto the puller with a couple of washers and tighten it after setting the spacing to be 2 of the holes 90 degrees apart. Put the bolt ends into the holes and a prybar between the 2 bolts and turn the big bolt. haven't tried it but I think it will work - it just needs more "room". Of course, you COULD just MAKE a tool or buy the $$$ expensive one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 if you take a 7mm allen wrench and put it into one of the holes, then use 1 of 2 breaker bars between the allen and the socket to bear against the socket, you can get the bolt loosened. I don't have a picture but this gives the idea. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8103 trouble is that this pic was one of a slightly different pulley with a "thicker" inner hub. The allen wrench(es - if you use 2 of them) want to rotate out of the holes so I wound up using a visegrip to hold the end of the allen (and needed 3 hands to hold the bar, breaker and visegrip at the same time - time to ask for "assistance") 1/4 inch extensions will FIT the hole but they aren't quite big enough to prevent coming out as torque is applied. You need something closer to the diameter of the holes in the hub to make it work better. The tighter the fit the better I thought about using a "bolt puller" with 2 bolts and nuts as well. Put the bolt-nut combo onto the puller with a couple of washers and tighten it after setting the spacing to be 2 of the holes 90 degrees apart. Put the bolt ends into the holes and a prybar between the 2 bolts and turn the big bolt. haven't tried it but I think it will work - it just needs more "room". Of course, you COULD just MAKE a tool or buy the $$$ expensive one This is how I've pulled these off other cars in the past (I used grade bolts instead of allen keys but same idea) until I busted a big chunk out of the pulley on our honda civic. granted the torque rating on that bolt was 180ftlbs (yikes!!), but when I saw the comparatively tiny holes in the EJ pulley I decided I wanted all four. But again, much depends on how it was put on Will- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 so in my travels searching for information, I stumbled upon this gem (from Roopair in Tacoma) - there is an access hole in automatics right behind the intake manifold on the pax side right on top - gray colored rectangular plug. Pull out the plug and you have access to the flywheel teeth - put in a BIG screwdriver between the teeth, brace it against the trans housing and stop the crank rotation that way as well. They use it for installing the bolt - just on the other side of the hole (BUT - they say the "fast way" to take it off is with a breaker bar and a blanket over the radiator - put the socket over the bolt head, put the breaker bar down against the drivers side frame member and tap the starter for a couple of seconds. Spins it right off - not my style to DO it that way, but apparently it works) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Thanks guys. I think I will try the method with the wrench extensions. Then try the method with the screw driver before I pull out the motor. How difficult you think it will be to get the tranny engine out together?? I am assuming it is as easy as remove all the engine and tranny mounts bolts and braces. Then remove some connectors. Then I will get my dad to vacuum out the A/C gas if there is any left anyway then he can unplug the A/C line. Remove the rear axle, and undo the pins for the cv's in the front. Is there something else?? Or it just won't be this easy? All I plan on buying is this to work on the motor. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32916 and this to pull the motor. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93840 I already have the toher tools i need. Like impact,torque wrench and socket set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 If you have a harbor freight close, they have the 1 ton hoist on sale 3/7, 8 and 9 in the "parking lot sale" for $100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 there is an access hole in automatics right behind the intake manifold on the pax side right on top This is on my 5spd too Pull out the plug and you have access to the flywheel teeth - put in a BIG screwdriver between the teeth, brace it against the trans housing and stop the crank rotation that way as well. I tried this first and found that without an assistant it is not easy to hold the screwdriver and crank the bolt at the same time. Also, it seemed like a real invitation to drop something down into the bell housing.. which would suck... bad:dead: (BUT - they say the "fast way" to take it off is with a breaker bar and a blanket over the radiator - put the socket over the bolt head, put the breaker bar down against the drivers side frame member and tap the starter for a couple of seconds. Spins it right off - not my style to DO it that way, but apparently it works) Yes, it does work and quite well. Though I chose a breaker bar long enough to reach the ground instead of bracing against any part of the car. When I first heard of this method I was pretty skeptical, but the more I thought about it, the less it seemed any different than using an impact wrench. Will- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Yes I like the flywheel block method. Not sure if this access hole exists on all soob engines, but it does on the 2.2L. Just cram something down in there. Can't quite get at the flywheel teeth in this hole per se, but there are holes there that you can get something into. I used small prybar. Just be careful as it likes to press hard on the tps, wouldn't want to crack it or anything. Crank sprocket hold method i used on '00obw with $20 harbor freight chain wrench. Nice chain wrench for $20, the only one I could find locally actually that was big enough to wrap around hte crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 And if you have a couple of old drive belts, you cut them to length and wrap around under the chain wrench - presto - no damage to the pulley either. (use a small piece of duct tape to hold them together) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 Blocking the flywheel works great on automatics. The big spaces are easy to wedge a bar into. The flywheel teeth on a 5spd are harder to get a *lock* on. For 5spd, just put it in 4th gear and set the ebrake tight, the motor will spin a half turn or so and then lock against the drivetrain. 5spd, the motor and trans should come toghtether. Automatics you need to seperate, or lower the crossmember slightly, to bring them out mated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 Oh great I knew it was to unbelieveable to be true. Should I drive the front of the car on ramps so I can angle the tranmission furthermore maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.