The Dude Abides Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Just curious if anyone has rhinolined or put any type of rust enhibator and sound deadner down on the floors of there cars and covered it back up with the carpet. Right now i dont have any floor or wheel well rust and i would like to keep that way. As long as it isnt to expensive id be willing to tear out the seats, carpet and plastic interior to do this. On top of that maybe make it alittle quieter for roadnoise on the road. what do ya think. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Other than the cost (I would think the pro stuff could get spendy) of it I had thought of just removing the carpet all together and doing that. Knew a guy with an old Jeep CJ that had that done with drain ports he could open up so all he had to do after wheeling was hose out the interior. (had other things waterproofed as well) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 Other than the cost (I would think the pro stuff could get spendy) of it I had thought of just removing the carpet all together and doing that.Knew a guy with an old Jeep CJ that had that done with drain ports he could open up so all he had to do after wheeling was hose out the interior. (had other things waterproofed as well) I was going for more like sound deadening - rustproofing. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 I am going to do the waterproof/rhino lined interior on my 9 inch wagon, just for being easy to clean and simple. For rust proofing, use some sort of preventative coating, then paint it, and the best sound deadening material is lead mats, but there is spray on stuff too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Rust doesn't start on the inside of the car....it starts from the outside, where water gets from driving. Salt spray on the floor pans from the bottom, not from under the carpet. Rust has to have bare metal, and moisture. not something that usually starts from under the carpet. If you have water getting into the car, then fix those leaks and never worry again. You can do this for sound deadening, BUT I would recommend DYNAMAT for that over any bedliner stuff. Its what they do with competition sound cars, and it will lower the roadnoise dbl Did you cover the floorpans from the bottom side in undercoat? If not, you need to start under the car first. That will lower roadnoise. Just curious if anyone has rhinolined or put any type of rust enhibator and sound deadner down on the floors of there cars and covered it back up with the carpet. Right now i dont have any floor or wheel well rust and i would like to keep that way. As long as it isnt to expensive id be willing to tear out the seats, carpet and plastic interior to do this. On top of that maybe make it alittle quieter for roadnoise on the road. what do ya think. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chef_tim Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Under the carpet is a layer of "stuff" that is there for noise. It is very difficult to take out and you would be defeting your purpose because it will come out in small chunks. You'll never have the ride/comfort of a Lincoln out of a 20+ year old Subby. As stated above, under-coat the bottem and esspecially in the wheel wells and other places that water grime and salt can accumulate. You might even want to take out the plastic wheel wells and get behind and under them very well. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 have to agree with the others - if you want to prevent rust, you do it from the outside, not inside. pull the plastic inner fenders, clean everything thoroughly, and make sure it is sealed from the outside - the rubber type undercoating would be my choice for these areas over the "rhino" type product - less likely to chip from stones and other road debris one point i will make however is to make sure your door drain holes are open. this would mean pulling the door panels and making sure the bottom of the door cavity is clean and free of gunk. there should be some small slits (1/4 to 3/8" long) for water drainoff at the very bottom where the inner and outer panels meet. sound deadening is better done with a product like dynamat, but if you are real ambitious, you could use the rubberized undercoating stuff in the body cavities (would do a better job of sound deadening than the rhino liner stuff IMHO) but that would require taping things off, and making sure you do not block/plug up any drain holes with the stuff... and keep in mind the stuff is smelly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 my hatch had a nasty mess in the back seat when i got it that was causing obvious corrosion. my bench and pass side seat back are shot, there was rust from below the front seats clear to the cargo area, no cancer but bad pitting well on it's way to cancer. this goes to show rust doesn't always start from the outside, a mess inside can devastate a poorly protected interior. i had to toss my bench, seat back, carpet, and everything under it. being the ocd freak that i am, i used a wire wheel in a 12,000rpm angle grinder to take the whole floor from the rear seat to the very back down to bare metal. i applied a rust converting primer to pitted areas, paintable rubberized undercoating over that, and rattle-canned the whole area to finish it. i don't know if the ea82's use the same tar-mat stuff applied to the bare sheetmetal before paint @ factory, but that crap is a nightmare to remove. i spent two whole days in there with a putty knife, rubber mallet, razor blade scraper, a bunch of picks & screwdrivers and ate three 4" wire wheels to get it sparkling clean. my rust went under that crap in some spots, though...and my ocd couldn't live with the rest. for further sound deadening i added residential 4lb carpet pad - not the ideal material, just what i had lying around. i have yet to install fresh carpet (its been sitting in my dining room for two months ) and reassemble my int. the hatch has been under the knife for about three months with spfi conversion, then a last second head replacement (yeah - after the ea82 intake was installed), etc, etc... i have mylar faced sound&heat insulation that i planned on using for my 65 dodge van's doghouse but since the van's long gone i'm considering using it for the inside of firewall & front wheel wells when i yank my dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted March 14, 2008 Author Share Posted March 14, 2008 have to agree with the others - if you want to prevent rust, you do it from the outside, not inside.pull the plastic inner fenders, clean everything thoroughly, and make sure it is sealed from the outside - the rubber type undercoating would be my choice for these areas over the "rhino" type product - less likely to chip from stones and other road debris one point i will make however is to make sure your door drain holes are open. this would mean pulling the door panels and making sure the bottom of the door cavity is clean and free of gunk. there should be some small slits (1/4 to 3/8" long) for water drainoff at the very bottom where the inner and outer panels meet. sound deadening is better done with a product like dynamat, but if you are real ambitious, you could use the rubberized undercoating stuff in the body cavities (would do a better job of sound deadening than the rhino liner stuff IMHO) but that would require taping things off, and making sure you do not block/plug up any drain holes with the stuff... and keep in mind the stuff is smelly! Well i was more going for sound deadening then rust proofing on the inside. I agree that it would be most usefull on the outside butt again im not going to pay for someone to do that on this car for the outside. If i had to do it can buy can that would be terribly expensive. I do have light surface rust on some parts to the underside of my car. I couldnt just spray that ruberized compound over it or roll it over the rust i would half to clean it first correct. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhise Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 Over the course of last summer I used por-15 to undercoat my wagon and then sprayed wurth's stone guard black over that. I also went extra coats in the wheel wells. There's a subtle difference in noise levels, no exagerated difference though. As far as the rust proofing goes, it seems to be holding up well to the elements. I'll get under there for a closer inspection once summertime is here. I considered this an experiment of sorts since the wagon was pretty rusty from the rear wheels back... I'm hoping to slow down the eventual rotting by a few years anyhow....so far so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 On my brat and on my bmw 2002 I removed the carpet and layed down some adhesive backed HVAC duct insulation. I got the stuff at Home Depot. It's about 1' wide and 25' long roles for like $15 or $20. The stuff is probably 3/16" thick and really does a good job of sound proofing. I took the door panels off and did the doors too. The bmw is really quite, the brat still sounds like I've got a helicopter tailing me, but it did improve it alot. When I had speakers put into my bmw the stereo shop guys thought the stuff I used was great and were asking me where I got it. The carpet fit right back over the stuff as did the door panels. good luck. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Well i was more going for sound deadening then rust proofing on the inside. I agree that it would be most usefull on the outside butt again im not going to pay for someone to do that on this car for the outside. If i had to do it can buy can that would be terribly expensive. I do have light surface rust on some parts to the underside of my car. I couldnt just spray that ruberized compound over it or roll it over the rust i would half to clean it first correct. Ben Yes - thoroughly clean the area, remove as much of the rust as you can, treat with a rust converter product to prevent spots you cant get to from getting worse, then seal it with the product of choice. I would use primer, paint, then the undercoating stuff with proper drying times in between coats - but that is me... the rubberized undercoating should be readily available in spray cans. Do you guys have Fleet Farm in the area? or a similar "farm" store? check in the automotive dept. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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