davebugs Posted March 14, 2008 Share Posted March 14, 2008 o.k. I'm almost done. I replaced a 97 2.5 manual with a 95 2.2 auto. Now the AC belt rubs the alternator, and it looks like the AC tensioner pulley probably rubs the TB cover. I happen to have a 97 2.2 auto crank pulley here and it has the same offset as the 97 2.5. I used from the 2.5 the AC compressor, the AC bracket, the alternator, the PS pump. I'm almost done and all has gone pretty smoothly until now! I guess the real question is whether a 95 Legacy 2.2 auto crank pulley has the same offset as a 97 2.2 Impreza 2.2 auto pulley (and thus the same as a 97 2.5 manual crank pulley). I locktited the pulley on so I'd rather not remove it unless the odds are pretty good that it's the problem. I had looked for a thread about this swap and came up with little - other than it's simple and get a 95 due to the dual port exhaust. I also sent a PM to someone who has done these in the past but I'm trying to get this wrapped up today. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 Never had this problem, make sure the belts are in the correct groves, it's easy to move them over a notch. Is the tensioner on correctly? It should all bolt up without a problem. I've done 6 of theses and never had this problem. Make sure you are using the same year AC Bracket and Tensioner as they are different across some years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 I also sent a PM to someone who has done these in the past but I'm trying to get this wrapped up today. (raises hand) he's been talking to me. i figured i was just forgetting or missing something but i'm confused too. i've never had a problem like this, it's always been easy so i've never had to think about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 O.K. another mental lapse or two. I hadn't tightened up the 'jamb' nut on the tensioner for the AC belt and hadn't installed (and thus tensioned) the alternator belt so the alternator was the whole way down and hitting the AC belt. All done with the swap. 2 codes. I didn't realize that I'd have to play with vacuum lines and such. Wasn't bad other than a trip to get the small vacuum line splice things. Does having the airbox stuff from the 2.2 make this part easier? Used an Ebay kit for TB and idler pulleys. Felpro(mexican) front crank, and federal Mogul (I think) cam seals. 2 codes are knock sensor - which does have a small split and I forgot to change while the engine was out. BTW atleast the connector end on the 2.2 is different than the 2.5 code was P035. Other one I'm getting sometimes on the 97 OB with the 2.5 and now this one with the 2.2. P0141 O2 sensor - the plug looks solidly plugged in. I bought this car dead so who knows. I've had excellent luck in the past with the seafoam vacuum line thing. I've used the brake booster in the past (since cleaning the cylinders wasn't my goal) and it's worked fine. Anyone have a 'better' more 'central' vacuum line to use to run the sea foam thru all 4 cylinders more evenly? Car has 110k. What is the normal life expectancy of these? I also think this is the one that folks recommend the Subaru one rather than generic? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 good job DB. get a new knock sensor. if that doesn't suit the wallet, there has been success with filling the cracks with sealant. O2 sensor. it's 10+ years old and 100,000+ miles there's no reason to not replace it. i'd just go with an OEM supplier through the local auto parts store, no point in buying it from Subaru when you can get it elsewhere and treat yourself to coffee, a movie, popcorn, and a nice steak dinner for less money. vacuum lines can vary all over the place, that's just one slight annoyance of the deal, but usually it's very minor to figure out. lots of variables, engine, model, EGR, auto, manual, non EGR, cruise, etc. even EJ25's have different set ups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 I have a knock sensor off a junk motor here with no cracks. That connector and how it 'clips' to the block are in a bad place. Glad I had a junk motor to look at and swipe the knock sensor from. I figure I'll let it cool down and work on it again tomorrow and re-check the coolant. The generic O2 sensors o.k.? I hit it with some PB Blaster while it was hot this evening. Sure wish I would have known that it needed replaced while the exhaust was down. For than matter I have a drawer full of O2 sensors from cars I've scrapped (not known good) but the Suby ones usually don't like to part with the converters. I have lots of Saturns and some VW's and misc others. I just doubt that I have the patience to try any of them. I'll probably still try the sea-foam depending on how many neighbors are home. Either that or wait until dark tomorrow. I'll see if I can get the O2 sensor loose and price new ones. That will have a direct bearing on my first choice of remedy. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 19, 2008 Author Share Posted March 19, 2008 This sounds like the second sensor? P0141 O2 sensor heater malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2). I was thinking the front one right at the Y before the first cat since I had it unplugged. Sounds like this one is the second one after the cats I assume? I'll look for it tomorrow. Traditionally will a generic one work here? Thinking of both availibility and cost. Why do they call these things heater circuits? Rather than just O2 sensors? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 i'm not well versed on O2 sensors but i'll tell you what i know...or think i know.... newer O2 sensors have heating circuits in them now. they have 3 (or 4) wires for the O2 sensor signal and for the heating element circuit. so these O2 sensors essentially are doing two things - monitoring O2 and heating themselves up. i would imagine that code is for the "heating" portion of the circuitry/sensor, not the sensing portion of the sensor. i'm not sure what you mean by "generic". but i would just find out what brand Subaru uses and by it at the local auto parts store - it'll be the same sensor that subaru uses. Subaru doesn't make O2 sensors, they outsource them...the same way they use NGK spark plugs and Bridgstone tires. Would you go buy your tires from Subaru...he!! no! by "generic" you could also mean "universal" that's what they call the O2 sensors that don't have plugs on them. You cut off the plug from your original and splice it on the new one. These sensors are identical to your stock O2 sensor they are just "universal" and fit multiple models rather than "direct fit" already having the wiring connector on them. BUT!!!!! i don't know if the newer 3/4 wire sensors even have universal style O2 sensors like the older 1 wires sensors do, so maybe this doesn't apply. but in the case of the older ones you stand to save a fair chunk for one wire connection, well worth it. aaaaannnnnyyyyway, like i said i'd just go to the autoparts store, or call them, or look it up on line and see what options they have. or find out what Subaru's comes with for your year....Bosch, NGK??? and then go buy one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 [...]Why do they call these things heater circuits? Rather than just O2 sensors? Oxygen sensors don't function until they reach operating temperature of at least 600 deg F. As Gary explained, "newer" sensors have a circuit for an electric heater, besides the one for the O2 sensor itself. When the sensor is below operating temperature the engine management has to run "open loop", a time of high emissions. Although the exhaust alone can eventually get the sensor hot enough, the electric heater speeds that up, allowing the ECU to go "closed loop" sooner and therefore lessening emissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Local parts stores just shy of 100 bucks. Bosch I think at both of them (one a local, the other Advance). Dealer - Wants to know my shoe size, SS#, life history. I often think these folks take themselves a bit too seriousely - especially since I usually supply the Vin # and sometimes still get the incorrect parts anyway. Looking on Ebay and oxygensensor.com. I have time to order one. It's a 3 wire and I'm a bit concerned about getting the old one out. Took the car for it's first voyage today after the swap. Glad the rotors got better as I drove it. Other than the O2 sensor all seems well. I'm having something that seems kinda like torque bind but it may be struts or alignment. It rained here today off and on. When turning sharply and going very slow it makes a sound in the front end and sounds like it's chewing off the tires. Turning radius doesn't seem to be effected(like I've experienced with torgue bind in an auto). Guess I'll know more on a drier day. Access is relatively easy to the wires so I may try the generic if the cost is significantly different. 35 and 55 so far. The 65 is a generic Walker from oxygensensors.com, the 35 from carpartswholesale on Ebay. Anyone dealt with either of these places? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 My leg is making that same sound when turning to the left. I tracked it down to a inner tierod end. Sways a bit on the Hi-way too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 [...]Took the car for it's first voyage today after the swap. Glad the rotors got better as I drove it. [...] [...]When turning sharply and going very slow it makes a sound in the front end and sounds like it's chewing off the tires.[...] That type of noise can be due to brake problems. In particular, check the condition of the inner pads and the side of the rotors they ride on. Make sure the pad ears are free in the calipers, and that in general the calipers aren't binding, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 The inside of both front tires are worn. Didn't notice it having classic alignment symptoms in the 20 miles of 2 lane highway that I drove it. Now that I have a few miles on it I'll be rotating the tires and checking the brakes. Also the tierods since a poster recommended that as well. I had to pull this car out to put rear brakes on my personal car last night so that it could get inspected today. Thanks for the suggestions. Still looking for how to resolve rear O2 sensor issue. Anyone have success with generic 3 wire O2 sensor in the rear? If so what brand? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 23, 2008 Author Share Posted March 23, 2008 FYI a used a VW/Audi used O2 sensor that I had laying around and no longer get the P0141 error circuit heater malfunction. Now I have an intermittent different code about the same sensor circuit. Don't know if I guessed wrong on the white wires in the connector. I forget the code (no pen) but it was 14* bank one , sensor 2 circuit malfunction. Looking like I may still end up buying a new Suby one from the dealer. And I thought that I had saved myself 100 bucks. Not much more than my local parts guys or Advance. Used knock sensor solved that problem. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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