Auto Transmission Fluid Change on '00 Outback ??

[1075]

Hi all, NOOB to the forum.

 

I recently purchased a 2000 Outback Sedan from my father with just over 100,000 miles on it. The car has the 2.5 with an automatic transmission which has never had a fluid change.

 

Is anyone familiar with a link detailing how to perform an AT fluid change? I have done a search for "automatic transmission fluid change" using the forum search but don't come up with anything but discussion threads.

 

Thanks in advance.

[aircraft engineer]

There's a plug on the side of the AT pan. Looks just like an oil drain plug. Pull out the plug, drain the old oil and replace it with the same quantity as you drained out (yeah, measure it - but it will be in the 5 qt range) then go recycle the old trans fluid

 

make sure you get dexron/mercron II or III

 

NOT the stuff suitable for CHRYSLER (the ATF +3 stuff) because it has an extra "slippery fluid additive" to deal with the Chrysler clutch packs. I have no idea of what it will do in a Sub.

 

I know that using "straight" dexron in a 604 FWD Dodge will cause the trans to burn up the clutches

 

Actually easier than changing oil (no filter to deal with)

[idosubaru]

welcome.

how's the timing belt? at 100k and 9 years it's due.

 

your transmission has an external trans filter as well, so you can replace that with the job.

 

ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is really simple, that's why there's no detailed instructions. and there's a few different methods.

 

if you're asking and wanting detailed instructions on this, this is probably your best option. you can drain and refill it a few times....i would recommend a minimum of 3 times.

 

you can remove the hoses from the transmission and put the suction hose into a bucket of ATF and the other hose in an empty bucket and crank the motor over until it cycles through. look in the owners manual at the capacity and have a bit more than that to work with...i think it's 8-10 quarts.

 

or you can just pull the return line and crank the engine over enough to blast some of the fluid out.

 

if you want detailed instructions you'd probably have better luck on an internet search engine than here.

[idosubaru]

I know that using "straight" dexron in a 604 FWD Dodge will cause the trans to burn up the clutches

no kidding, is that like a dodge colt?

 

Actually easier than changing oil (no filter to deal with)

his does have an external transmission filter!

[Rooster2]

It is a pretty easy job to do it your self, if you have a set of drive up ramps that lift the front wheels about 15 inches off the ground. That gives you enough room to crawl under the car giving access to the bottom of the automatic transmission pan. On the bottom of the trany pan is a drain bolt, just like the drain bolt on the oil pan. Pull the pan bolt will drain about 6 quarts of ATF, however, the system holds about 12 to 13 quarts, with the remaining 6 or 7 quarts remaining in the torque converter. So to do a good drain requires draining the system a total of 3 times to do a thorough job over several days.

 

Yes, you can take to a shop for a pressure ATF change. That costs more than doing it yourself, but gets the job done all at one time.

 

There is also an external AT filter that is the same size as the oil filter. Some people change that filter, others don't.

[aircraft engineer]

93 CARAVAN with a 3.3 V6 2nd trans.

 

The 97 Impreza didn't have a filter

[idosubaru]

The 97 Impreza didn't have a filter

the 4EAT's got external screw on filters in 98+.

 

hey the original poster is from maryland - me too!

[1075]

welcome.

how's the timing belt? at 100k and 9 years it's due.

 

your transmission has an external trans filter as well, so you can replace that with the job.

 

ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is really simple, that's why there's no detailed instructions. and there's a few different methods.

 

if you're asking and wanting detailed instructions on this, this is probably your best option. you can drain and refill it a few times....i would recommend a minimum of 3 times.

 

you can remove the hoses from the transmission and put the suction hose into a bucket of ATF and the other hose in an empty bucket and crank the motor over until it cycles through. look in the owners manual at the capacity and have a bit more than that to work with...i think it's 8-10 quarts.

 

or you can just pull the return line and crank the engine over enough to blast some of the fluid out.

 

if you want detailed instructions you'd probably have better luck on an internet search engine than here.

 

Thanks for the reply. Just had the timing belt, idler pulleys & bearings, water pump and associated gaskets replaced as well as the drive belts, cat, both headgaskets, thermostat, radiator and heater hoses, plugs, wires and gaskets replaced with the motor out of the car.

 

This may be a stupid question, but do you fill the transmission through the dipstick port?

[aircraft engineer]

and a funnel with a small enough end to fit in it needs to be 10 inches long or so to get up above the hose clutter (or at least it did on the Impreza)

[1075]

and a funnel with a small enough end to fit in it needs to be 10 inches long or so to get up above the hose clutter (or at least it did on the Impreza)

 

Thanks, seems simple enough. Busy playing bagpipes for the next 3 days but I'll drive it up on the ramps and have a look after St. Patricks Day.

[porcupine73]

Hi. welcome! '00obw here too!

 

Abbrev. ver: drain atf via plug, refill atf, pull hose off trans cooler (remove plastic underdoor, the hoses are right at the bottom of the rad), put hoses into plastic jug, start engine until 2 quarts pump out, shut off, add 2 quarts to auto trans, repeat several times, verify proper level.

[aircraft engineer]

second alternate - take it to Jiffy Lube and spend the $90 and not mess with it yourself. Full flush, getting it up to "level" is their problem

 

third alternate - put bagpipe bag... oh wait, I actually LIKE pipes Must be the 1/4 scot in me

[NOMAD327]

The dipstick is where the oil goes in, and it's hidden pretty well on these cars, but is just under the brake master cylinder booster and the dipstick has a yellow top. My 99 outback was a stretch, but could be drained without jacking the car up, the plug is the same size as the engine oil drain plug 17mm, on the driver's side of the pan. I got fairly consistant four quart drains on mine on a very slight incline, and the first couple times, it drained out black. I added store brand Dexron the first couple drain and refills, and then name brand on the later fills. I did five partial drain and refills before it was clean as new after a couple miles of driving. The metal washer on the drain plug is mostly reuseable, but the last time I drained, I put a new washer on the plug.

[shortlid]

I have heard the external screw on filters are reall $$ like $30!! Cheaper to get the external filter KIT for $19!

[davebugs]

I have heard the external screw on filters are reall $$ like $30!! Cheaper to get the external filter KIT for $19!

 

FYI my local parts store has Wix filters for under 10 bucks. I think Wix is a quality brand and at 1/3 the price that's usually what I use.

 

I'm about to do this on my GF's 2006 Impreza with 50k and I actually may leave the filter on. I'm still trying to determine which fluid to use. I hope to look at her owners manual again tonight. I didn't get a real 'solid' answer from the dealer on which ATF.

 

Dave

[Petersubaru]

the difficult part is measureing the same amount that was taken out..before starting the job make sure that the fluid is up to the "hot" level before draining..determine "exactly" how much was taken out before adding any new fluid..subarus' dip stick is not a very good measureing tool to use for exactness and can drive you crazy with its ability to fluctuate..dexron VI is backward compatible and far more superior ..most important is to keep the tranny oil clean

[davebugs]

FYI I use a 16 oz styrofoam cup. It has a line half way up it for 8 oz.

 

It's so much easier to read dirty fluid.

 

I have a friend with an Acura. Their car can be checked cold and car not running - just like a normal oil check. Also I do believe that it takes regular motor oil in the trans - but a straight weight I believe. Perhaps that technology can make itself to the other Japanese manufacturers - I'd like to see it in American cars as well. They must have figured out how to tell how much is in the torque converter. Very nice. It's the only car so far that I've run across like this. This has to lead to a more proper operating level.

[aircraft engineer]

I hope that by "regular motor oil" you mean "ordinary dexron II or III"

 

MOTOR OIL IS NOT THE SAME ANIMAL AT ALL - WE ARE TALKING ABOUT AN AUTO TRANS - RIGHT??

[davebugs]

I hope that by "regular motor oil" you mean "ordinary dexron II or III"

 

MOTOR OIL IS NOT THE SAME ANIMAL AT ALL - WE ARE TALKING ABOUT AN AUTO TRANS - RIGHT??

 

 

Yep. Regular straight weight oil I forget if it's 20, 30, or 40 weight. I've seen it before in Honda's from the early or mid 90's auto trans.

 

Why honda's don't need the high detergent normal ATF I don't know. I don't even know if it's all the models.

 

I do know that it's about time some engineer(s) designed a tranny that's easy to check.

 

BTW on my 2001 VW Golf it's kinda like the old bugs transaxles. No dipstick. Get it up to temp, remove the plug out of the bottom of the tranny and when a steady stream runs out it's full. No kidding - that's the only way to check it. It takes a very special fluid though. You gotta make (or buy) a gizmo that looks like a hook and add some tubing to it in order to fill the tranny thru this hole in the bottom of the tranny oil pan.

 

Probably why they call it 'lifetime' tranny fluid. But I don't treat it as lifetime. Besides I expect my TDI to go 300 or 400k and that's a lot of miles on a fluid. So far 2 changes in 150k.

 

Dave

[brus brother]

Make sure you are happy with the HOT level to begin with.

I always save the empty Dextron gallon jug from my last refill and drain the fluid into a pan, funnel it into the old jug for disposal and check the level on the jug before adding the same amount of new fluid from the new jug. Repeat as necessary.

[shortlid]

Yep. Regular straight weight oil I forget if it's 20, 30, or 40 weight. I've seen it before in Honda's from the early or mid 90's auto trans.

 

Why honda's don't need the high detergent normal ATF I don't know. I don't even know if it's all the models.

 

I do know that it's about time some engineer(s) designed a tranny that's easy to check.

 

BTW on my 2001 VW Golf it's kinda like the old bugs transaxles. No dipstick. Get it up to temp, remove the plug out of the bottom of the tranny and when a steady stream runs out it's full. No kidding - that's the only way to check it. It takes a very special fluid though. You gotta make (or buy) a gizmo that looks like a hook and add some tubing to it in order to fill the tranny thru this hole in the bottom of the tranny oil pan.

 

Probably why they call it 'lifetime' tranny fluid. But I don't treat it as lifetime. Besides I expect my TDI to go 300 or 400k and that's a lot of miles on a fluid. So far 2 changes in 150k.

 

Dave

 

Dave

I have a '99 Accord and a Civic the older Honda cars take stright oil in "5-speed manual transmisions not the automatics! There is speacial Honda ATF for the automatics but it is FAR from motor oil!!

[1075]

OK, I've got a bunch of Amsoil synthetic ATF that I have had for awhile. It says that the fluid is "universal" meeting Dexron II & III, Mercon & Mercon 5, Chrysler ATF+ thru ATF+4, Allison, Caterpillar, etc.

 

Is that OK to use, or should I not use it because it lists the Chrysler ATF spec. in addition to Dexron?

[davebugs]

The 'old' Honda was about a 92 Accord Auto.

 

The Acura is a 2003 TL auto. Someday I'll get to check the manual on the Acura.

 

Perhaps a Honda guy will chime in. I really don't do many Honda's and only the one Acura. And I've never had to do anything with the auto trans on any of them.

[porcupine73]

OK, I've got a bunch of Amsoil synthetic ATF that I have had for awhile. It says that the fluid is "universal" meeting Dexron II & III, Mercon & Mercon 5, Chrysler ATF+ thru ATF+4, Allison, Caterpillar, etc.

 

Is that OK to use, or should I not use it because it lists the Chrysler ATF spec. in addition to Dexron?

That is fine to use if your soob specifies Dexron II/III. I use the amsoil syn atf in all my soobs and it works great. If you have a newer soob that specifies the Subaru/Idemtisu HP-ATF, then the amsoil syn atf is not recommended.

[porcupine73]

Some makes manual transmissions use/used engine oil; generally these were transverse mount setups that did not have a hypoid differential setup (this is what typically requires a GL-5 gear oil for the extreme pressure components sulfur etc).