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Blu now has 225,000 miles and change. At 191,000 Blu got a new engine, and a new Engine temp sensor.

 

Last week Blu started twice then immediatly stalled, twice in a row. The second time he cranked like he sounded like was out of gas. Since his fuel pump had been screaming for some time, i replaced it thinking this would solve the problem. He was also cranking a bit longer then i liked, but that went away with the used fuel pump.

 

Today, twice in a row, Blu would fire up, then I would take my hand of the key, and he would stall. After counting to two, he fired right back up and ran like the champ he is. Since he never technically started, there is no code thrown nor stored. When he would stall, it was electrical in nature, like i shut the key off, as opposed to a stumble.

 

Since he runs like a champ (just did NY to baltimore and back on saturday without a hitch), i am a bit short on ideas.

 

If this was an old chrysler I would say tha ballast resistor is going bad.

 

Any ideas, or do i just replace the crank position sensor now and cross my fingers.

 

nipper

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Today, twice in a row, Blu would fire up, then I would take my hand of the key, and he would stall.

 

This make me think Ignition switch.

 

It'd be worth it to test for voltage at the main Ignition switch connector. Look for any blips or dead spots when cranking and going back and forth between *start* and *On*

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This make me think Ignition switch.

 

It'd be worth it to test for voltage at the main Ignition switch connector. Look for any blips or dead spots when cranking and going back and forth between *start* and *On*

 

Are the switches seperate from the lock cylinder, or are they one unit ?

 

Wouldnt surprise me at this mileage, and in all honesty, didnt even think about that :)

 

nipper

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Are the switches seperate from the lock cylinder, or are they one unit ?

 

Wouldnt surprise me at this mileage, and in all honesty, didnt even think about that :)

 

nipper

 

I'd imagine they are seperate, like the older car, but I don't know. Never had cause to open an Outback column.

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I can't speak for the Legos, but the SVX has the switch screwed to the lock cylinder. I know Subaru doesn't like to redesign the wheel for every new model. I'm betting they're the same.

 

The SVX has a prob with that screw coming loose & creating intermittent no start, or no crank issues.

 

Just a random thought from a random mind.

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they are seperate. the ignition switch is about the size of 50 cent piece but 1/2'' tall. it is attached to the a$$ end of the ignition keyway by a little tiny screw about 1/4' long and thinner than a pencil lead. if you remove the plastic surrounding the steering column, it will be fairly obvious. at no time do you need to remove the "security bolts" that attacht everything to the steering column nor will you need to remove the ignitiopn keyway lock. although, with the key in the ignition and the plastic removed it is easy to do.

 

what i don't know is what , if any, relays may be employed between the actual switch and the starter etc.

 

the plastic on the steering column has 3 screws on the under side. there is also a fairly large 'phillips' type plug for acces to the ignition 'keyway/lock'. remove the 3 screws with a long thin screw driver and gently remove the plastic peices. you'll need to wiggle the steering wheel 'tilt' lever.

 

i had an intermitten problem with my 91 nissan pickup ( notable only because nissan and subaru use the same igmition keyway and switch) and i had to run another wire to the starter. but my truck was a 5 speed, and i never took the time to track down the actual problem. my guess is that i had a bad clutch 'safety' switch. but i don't know, the new wire solved it.

 

good luck.

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Thanks, there is the main relay between the switch and the rest of the car. I am confident that is fine. The ignition switch makes sense. Last time I had to replace one was a 79 civic.

 

 

nipper

how old was it when you swapped it out?

 

ps: before i put the screws back in the plastic pieces for reinstalling them, i used a couple of layers of paper napkin so they wouldn't fall out while installing.

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How come I don't have a tilt lever on my wheel? I'd love to move it sometimes. Or are you waxing poetic here?

 

if you are driving a 97 outback you have one!! for that matter oyu have one if you are driving a legacy, 95 - 99, probablt 91 - 94 too!!! left side of the steering column, near the lower dash panel.

 

what are you driving??

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if you are driving a 97 outback you have one!! for that matter oyu have one if you are driving a legacy, 95 - 99, probablt 91 - 94 too!!! left side of the steering column, near the lower dash panel.

 

what are you driving??

 

Wow. I need a brain transplant. Actually, I remember that now. We used to have an 85 Nissan pickup that had a tilt lever. Then, we bought our current 97 Nissan pickup that does not have one. I have missed it. The last time we were out on the road IN THE SUBARU, I was thinking, "Wonder why they didn't put a tilt lever in this thing." Never looked, or felt for it, just wondered and suffered. It was some kind of lunatic transference thing. I should go to bed now or something.:eek:

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it is attached to the a$$ end of the ignition keyway by a little tiny screw
those small screws are problematic with age (though i've yet to see any newer gen's have it, it's getting about that time), they come loose and cause a bad contact....or fall out and do the same. i'd start there or test it like the good mechanic that i am not!
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Yeah, if you are talking to me Nipper, that's what I'm saying. After the months of always taking the truck because the Sub was grounded by the HG issue, i somehow got it in my head that there was no tilt - like the truck. Oh yeah, it's right there where its always been. Funny the way they just go straight up and down though.

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