Timing Belt Kit Question

[2000outback]

I am going to get the timing belt done on my Soob and I found this kit on Ebay.Is this a good price for these parts.I know to do the water pump at the same time so I'll have to buy it separately..Are there any other seals or gaskets I will need to have the job done?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230231663777&category=33625&sspagename=DCP:RV:GI

[EVOthis]

while your in there you might want to do the front cam seals and the front crank seal....

[idosubaru]

i've used a few ebay kits. i think i've only used them once on an interference EJ engine (like yours). i have no reason to not use them yet and will more and more as time goes by. you have the option of only replacing the pulleys that are loose and noisy.

 

be sure to get a Subaru thermostat only, the aftermarket ones are subpar. you have to take it off to replace the water pump.

 

you will have access to the oil pump seal (which is also the crank seal) and cam seals as well. it's nice to have those handy and at the very least check to see if any of those are seaping while you're in there. they reside behind the timing belt. many people just go ahead and replace them all while they're in there since access is already granted with the timing belts off.

 

oil pump has a shaft seal (crank seal), an oring and is sealed around the edges with sealant from a tube or bottle (RTV or the anaerobic).

 

cam seals reside behind the cam sprockets so you need to remove the cam sprocket to replace the seal. and then there's an oring behind the passengers side cam seal as well - only requires removing 3 small bolts to replace that, so do that as well if you decide to do the cam seal on that side.

[2000outback]

i've used a few ebay kits. i think i've only used them once on an interference EJ engine (like yours). i have no reason to not use them yet and will more and more as time goes by. you have the option of only replacing the pulleys that are loose and noisy.

 

be sure to get a Subaru thermostat only, the aftermarket ones are subpar. you have to take it off to replace the water pump.

 

you will have access to the oil pump seal (which is also the crank seal) and cam seals as well. it's nice to have those handy and at the very least check to see if any of those are seaping while you're in there. they reside behind the timing belt. many people just go ahead and replace them all while they're in there since access is already granted with the timing belts off.

 

oil pump has a shaft seal (crank seal), an oring and is sealed around the edges with sealant from a tube or bottle (RTV or the anaerobic).

 

cam seals reside behind the cam sprockets so you need to remove the cam sprocket to replace the seal. and then there's an oring behind the passengers side cam seal as well - only requires removing 3 small bolts to replace that, so do that as well if you decide to do the cam seal on that side.

 

What about the water pump.Can you get them aftermarket?

So if I want to get the seals I need i ask for cam seals and o-rings and a crankshaft/oil pump seal.Do i get them from Subaru or can you get them aftermarket as well?

[idosubaru]

all of that stuff is available aftermarket. i'd personally rather have a new water pump verses a rebuilt one. only because you have an interference engine and such a long timing belt interval. your car seems new and well maintained.

 

you're not going back in there for 105,000 miles. i like to stick with Subaru on that but i'm not saying aftermarket is bad - i just don't know and there's no solid "evidence" or trends yet.

 

compare prices to the online Subaru dealers - there are discount online subaru dealers (you can search the forum for links and info on subarugenuineparts, liberty subaru and others). they are much more inexpensive than your local dealer. sometimes you can ask the local guys and they'll give you the same pricing as the online jokers.

 

i had an aftermarket crank seal that would not seat very well last year...and it ended up leaking, had to replace the seal and the oil soaked timing belt, the Subaru seal popped right in like the other 200 seals i've done...only one incidence so it really doesn't mean a thing, but i'll personally stick to subaru most of the time since the price difference is trivial anyway.

 

i have used aftermarket on older interference engines, so i'm not completely against them. just depends on age, mileage, condition, useage, intentions, etc. in general though the minor savings aren't worth it to me.

 

Oil pump = one seal, one oring

Cams = 2 seals and one oring (or two orings if you want to do that oring on the rear passengers side head)

 

The cams can be a bear to get off, so read up on tips to remove the cam sprocket bolts. That often deters people from doing the cam seals!

[aircraft engineer]

I used those guys to fix a 2.2 Impreza. Kit was complete, but I DID opt for the German (Mexican manufacture) timing belt though - for a "warm fuzzy feeling" more than the Chinese belt that comes with their "regular" kit ($10 extra). With the cam/crank seals and O rings, water pump, valve cover gaskets, bolt seals and belt upgrade plus both accessory belts as well, you are looking at probably $275 or so. Thing is that you will have replaced virtually everything on the front of the engine AND PROBABLY WON'T NEED TO DO IT AGAIN FOR 100K miles.

 

They're good guys to work with (and for me, anyway, they are not quite "local" - maybe 140 miles away - so shipping was next day)

 

Remember to check the screws on the back of the oil pump and loctite them before torquing them down and get a tube of permatex anaerobic gasket sealant (the small one is all you need) to seal the oil pump to the block.

 

EVERYTHING else you need is in the kit (and you might even salvage the tensioner if you can find a replacement bearing and sell it to someone else - it's the BEARING that wears, not the tensioner itself, so don't junk it - someone here might want it)

 

THEY HAVE A FULL KIT AS DESCRIBED ABOVE AVAILABLE - go visit their "store" and look, better yet, give them a call.

[soobyfan]

I have a 96 2.2L & used the ebay kit as well. I am happy with it but I opted to not use the t-belt that came with the kit and bought an OEM belt, about $46.00 after discount.

 

I elected to go with the aftermarket water pump, however a lot of people say use OEM only, probably wise on an interference engine like yours.

 

I also replaced all hoses, t-stat, cap, due to the reputation of these engines to overheat. Be careful when filling the coolant to make sure there are no air pockets, search this site for procedure.

 

I elected to re-use the tensioner, just follow the procedure carefully for testing and compressing. It's not hard just be careful.

 

I went with OEM on the seals and gaskets, there are some dealers that will discount their prices. I did a bunch of research on the net and then called a local dealer and they were willing to match the "internet" price. I have found they will go about 25% off.

[aircraft engineer]

removing cam sprockets - quite simple, really - I found that I could use a crowfoot wrench turned sideways to hold the sprocket (put it - 14 mm I seem to remember - over one of the spokes and use that to hold the sprocket while loosening' tightening the bolt.)

 

Another option is to put 2 allen wrenches into the circular holes on the crank cogged belt drive and use a wrench to hold the crank from turning and loosen the sprocket bolt. The old timing belt is throw away anyway - DON'T PUT IT ON THIS WAY!! Too much strain on the belt!!

 

The crow foot worked for on and off, though.

 

Use a "pick" - like this one from harbor freight to pull out the seal itself -

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94500

 

it lets you get in and pull out the seal without damaging either the cam bearing/seal face or the housing - IF you are careful.

[msmithmmx]

I used that same type kit for my 2.2 and an Ebay water pump for 16 bucks. 6K miles and no problems. Just use OEM seals