Axle Install question

[J A Blazer]

2000 OBW, 110K. Am replacing front axles with MWE that should arrive soon. In removing the old ones, passenger side came out easily but driver's side wouldn't budge after removing axle nut. A few taps from a hammer made no difference. Rented a hub puller which did the job, but the axle was difficult to remove from the hub the entire distance of the splined shaft. How am I going to be able to install the new one? Will a generous application of lubricant do the trick, and if so what should I use? Or will I have to replace the hub? TIA.

[Subie Gal]

is there an extreme amount of rust?

 

what caused the axle to be stuck on release?

 

try cleaning/scraping off as much rust as possible if present

 

clean everything up... see how it goes

 

if it's not going to work, you will know

 

and yes, hub replacment may be what needs to occur.

 

 

Jamie

[J A Blazer]

Yes, a fair amount of rust. Would this suggest that the hub seal had gone bad? How difficult are they to replace?

[Gloyale]

Yes, a fair amount of rust. Would this suggest that the hub seal had gone bad? How difficult are they to replace?

 

The inboard seal is pretty easy to replace while the axle is out. Pry it from the inside of the knuckle, and punch the new one in. I'd change it if there is any question, it's cheap.

 

Outboard seal has to be installed when the hub is pressed.

 

As for the rust, I'd get small (toothbrush size) wire brush, and some WD-40 and spray and scrub all the rust out of the inner portion of the hub.

[J A Blazer]

punch the new one in.

 

With what?

[idosubaru]

wipe it down (wire brush it whatever) and spread anti seize all over the axle splines.

[Gloyale]

punch the new one in.

 

With what?

 

Well, there are lot's of ways.

 

I ussually try to press them in by hand first. Sometimes they'll go all the way by hand. Even if it doesn't go fully, it works well to start it most of the time. Then I use a 3/8 drive socket extension, and carefully tap around the edge of the seal until it's evenly and completely seated all around.

 

Using a punch with a flat tip would work also, but I like the socket extension because of the rounded shoulder on the tip, it doesn't ever try to tear the rubber seal like the sharper edge of a punch.

[aircraft engineer]

Since you are replacing it anyway (the axle) you could probably use a puller (not slide hammer) and push the axle out the back of the hub. You want to push the axle out, not pull the hub off (or maybe Sub's are different from the other FWDs I've worked on.)

 

a chunk of 2x2 cut square on the ends also works for a seal driver and if you want to get REALLY fancy, go buy a driver set from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35555

 

Unless you WANT to replace the seals or wheel bearing, don't pull out that hub unless absolutely necessary. When you have the axle out, try the "turn and feel for any binding" test which will indicate a bad bearing

 

put "anti-seize" on the splines before you shove the new axle in the hub and this probably won't happen again

[frag]

I once faced the same predicament. Here's what worked for me.

1) Wire brush and penetrating oil.

2) A small diameter triangular file. I used it in the "valleys" of the splines and the new one slid in without any problem.

3) Antiseize grease.

HTH.