Oil Change

[The Dude Abides]

Ok 2 Questions.

 

1. What type of oil does everyone run there subaru. I know people have there own personal choice but i was just curious as to what some people have had the best luck with.

 

2. As far as being cost effective or being just plane lazy. I can get a oil change at a dealership for 20 bucks plus tax. At the rate of oil going for 3 bucks a quart and the price of a oil filter im right there on price. And i dont half to dispose of the old oil. Is it just lazy to have the dealership do it when i could do it myself. Or is it being cost effective. Remember i live in an apartment complex so id be doing it out there.

 

Ben

[[HTi]Johnson]

Well, a DIY oil change runs me about $18, so $20 plus tax is very appealing.

[nipper]

I agree, especially with the time to schlep the old oil around.

 

 

nipper

[azsubaru]

1) Castrol GTX

 

2) I wouldn't do it to save 2 bucks, either.

[Reveeen]

1) Castrol GTX (20W-50)

 

2) not worth $2

[beataru]

In the winter I like to run Mobile 1 sythetic 0w-40 or 5w-30, in the summer here I used to run 10w-30, but now I am going to go to 15w-40 in the summer, it gets hot here. As far as cost goes, for a decent oil filter from the parts store cost me about 7-10 bucks, and for the oil, walmart sells the big jugs for about 22 bucks. Remember GOOD OIL is cheap, engines are not. as for conventional castrol is my favorite, i run it in my lawnmower

[NV Zeno]

Whenever my favorite Subaru shop has an oil change special, of course I'd have them do it. While on the lift, they'll rotate the tires, check the brakes, check the coolant effectiveness, and sometimes other little things if I ask them to (like axle nut torque).

 

This shop uses Genuine Subaru filters, and GTX in the weight I choose. To me, they're a second set (and expert to boot) of eyes, and at a bargain price.

 

My 2 bucks

[DaveT]

In good engines, (no major leaks, no major oil burning) I run Amsoil synthetic. With their bypass filter & their engine oil & air filters. Never change the oil. The engine in my 90 had 15,000 miles when we got it. Ran it to around 150,000 with that way. Around 150K, the oil leaks got to be too much.

 

When I do major engine work, I rework a spare engine, then swap it into the car. The 88 engine I swapped in turned out to be a real oil burner. Like 3/4 quart/week. It got the cheapest oil I could find, and used oil. Ran for about 2 years, till the frame rot took the car out. The oil burning significantly reduced by then. Weird.

 

When I dissassembled the 90 engine to do a reseal, it was still in normal specifications, no gunk, no trouble.

 

So that 90 engine is next in line - probably will go into my new 87. (the engine in the 87 leaks like crazey)

 

The up front cost is steep. Over time, it should work out to be less than changes. Initially, I switched in part due to the long term cost being lower. But I soon realized that I don't miss spending the time changing oil or going places to get it changed.

[TeamCF]

1. I use Royal Purple in my daily driver. Used to be Mobil 1. The fact you can run a synthetic a little longer makes up for the difference in cost to me.

But in my 83 GL.... I've just been running whatever conventional is on hand. It burns and leaks some (but not as bad as when I bought it) so I don't get too picky on what goes in it. As long as it's not too cheap. GTX, as said, is one of my top choices. But even the cheap stuff has to meet certain standards. Mainly it's just what additives are put in by different companies.

 

Had bad luck with Penzoil gumming things up, even with regular 3,000mi changes.

 

2. For $20. I'd keep having the dealer do it. Less mess for you to deal with.

[Buddy]

i agree with da dealer too. they already kno wat they need to do anyway.

[GeneralDisorder]

I'm going to go against the grain and say do it yourself. My reasons.... you may dissagree:

 

1. You'll save a couple bucks. You'll save time waiting on the service people, and you'll save gas driving there. Buy your filters in bulk from the dealer, or WIX filters from Napa ect. Buy Chevron oil from Costco (I'll address my brand choice in a minute). This reduces your time and gas spent aquireing the materials, and having the stuff on hand saves time when the job comes around. Disposing of the oil isn't really that big of a deal if you use a drain pan with a pour spout and save your milk jugs.

 

2. You'll be more familair with your car. You'll notice the oil consumption (or lack of), you'll notice leaks developing, and you'll see things like torn axle boots, and other impending failure items.

 

3. The dealer has no intrest in you OLD car (this is the old gen forum). They lose money on this proposition, and would much rather make a sale of a new car. They can, and will point out every little problem they can find, and I wouldn't put it past them to create a few themselves. Not all dealers or lube tech's would do this of course, but you always run the risk. No one cares for your car as much as YOU do.

 

I use Chevron oil. Standard Oil owns most of the patents, and manufactures most of the equipment used to produce modern oil - including the synthetics on the market. A long (I mean REALLY long) discussion a few years back (EZBoard days) incuded very useful input from a board member that had a lot of intimate knowledge of the oil industry. He sugested the Chevron oil as being of very high quality for a regular dino oil - almost as high as some of the synthetics on the market.

 

I used to use Castrol, but after they tried to trick everyone with their used of synthetic labeling on super refined dino oil (IE: NOT synthetic), I can't in good concience support their brand.

 

GD

[TheLoyale]

I don't beleave in someone else doing my Oil change. Plus I like to know whats going on with my car. So I'm totaly with GD on this one.... And it's not hard to get rid of the oil like GD said. We keep ours in 5 gal jugs that I or Dad get from work. The only bummer is that in lower wisconsin you have to pay the Recycle dump to take it (Used to be free).

 

Anyhoo,

 

I run Castrol GTX 10w-40 and a OE Filter from the dealer. All in all it's about $6 bucks for one OE filter IIRC and About $2 per qt for the oil. So about $17 total..

[Indrid cold]

Chevron oil. I drive a 1990 Oldsmobile sillouette.. (-5 spelling, what ever, long nose mini van with big window) any way... 275,000 and running strong, every change on Chevron @ 5,000 mile intervals. (I bought it used at 10,000 miles) so I have driven too the moon and on my way back home and never loosened a bolt on the engine for repairs. These mini van's with the Oldsmobile drive-train have a loyal following and are now known for their high millage abilities! Aside from that,

 

Mechanic friend got me using this when I got the van, he swore by Chev. oil as he see's what's inside the engine and what people used for oil. Been good too me... to each his own. Also running my 2000 Ford now the warrenty is over (switched from Motorcraft to Chevron) and now my roo's which are new too me with in 4-5 years.

 

I usually run 5-30 winter and will probably go 10-30 when it warms up, ... but not set to any grade yet as with you.. curious what some of the old Subaru hands use.

 

I like to change my own: I rub it's under belly, snoop and bond while under the cars.