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Weber 32/36 VS Holley carb


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I know that "you get what you pay for" but Im curious to hear from anyone that could give me some insight as to the difference between the famous Weber 32/36.... and the look-alike Holley brand.

 

They have them listed here

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holley-Carburetor-modeled-as-Weber-32-36-2bbl-Vega_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ023QQitemZ360035913874QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

Doesnt seem like a bad price, and I know that Holley isnt famous for making crap.

 

Comments? Opinions?

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I have had one for about two years now and have had zero problems with it. The linkage is on the other side and you have to rig the cable to make it work. The jetting is the same and I get about 28 mpg on the highway with a five speed in my 4x4 wagon. They also use the same adapter kit as the weber.

:burnout:

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The Holley/Weber 5200 is a copy of the Weber 32/36 DFV. It's not a look-alike anything - it's a straight licensed copy of it with some changes made for the US market, and engine sizes.

 

The Weber most of us use is the Weber 32/36 DGV. It's mostly a mirror image, but the air horns are different as well.

 

Jetting *can* be the same. But not all 5200's are the same - depending on the engine they came from they could have smaller venturi's than a standard DVF or DGV - yeilding less torque. The problem is that no one who's selling them understands any of the differences so this information is never listed - buying 5200's site-unseen is a crapshoot at best.

 

It's a cheap alternative if you don't mind the differences, but it is NOT a look-alike, nor is it as simple as the DGV - it has US market emissions ports that need to be understood, and properly routed. The DGV has an internal float chamber vent, while the 5200 routes through a vent solenoid that needs ignition power, and proper hose routing (ideally through a charcoal canister) ect...

 

GD

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. The DGV has an internal float chamber vent, while the 5200 routes through a vent solenoid that needs ignition power, and proper hose routing (ideally through a charcoal canister) ect...

 

GD

I have a few vacuum lines that had to be plugged but no wires run to a solenoid. Or do you mean an external solenoid? I only run three vacuum lines and it works great. Mine was bought from the same people and I contacted them about what car most of these came off of and they said maverick and pinto 1.9s and 2.2L engines. I have lots of torque with mine, probably more then SPFI and the Hicrappy carbs.I also run a free flow cat with a stock muffler.
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I have a few vacuum lines that had to be plugged but no wires run to a solenoid. Or do you mean an external solenoid? I only run three vacuum lines and it works great.

 

As I said there are many variations. Some years were external, some were not. Likely one of the "vacuum ports" you blocked off is a vent line.

 

Mine was bought from the same people and I contacted them about what car most of these came off of and they said maverick and pinto 1.9s and 2.2L engines.

 

That's the problem - they don't know exactly. Sure - Mavrick, Pinto, Vega - that's as good a guess as any. But which one? And what year? It matters I assure you. They were common on many, many Ford 4 cylinders of many sizes for a number of years.

 

I have lots of torque with mine, probably more then SPFI and the Hicrappy carbs.I also run a free flow cat with a stock muffler.

 

I've ran all of the above, and the SPFI is easily as good with a stock EA81. The DGV could potentially support more mods, but so could the SPFI with proper fuel pressure and management. It's about what you want, and what you need. If you value excelent off-angle running, then the SPFI is worth the work.

 

GD

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Either way I know mine runs very well and I get good milage. Mine only has three vacuum lines, two small ones on the front, one of them I have to the disty and the other plugged. The third is a large one that most likley went to the brake booster. If you cant get the money up for a weber and you can fab a throttle cable mount they are worth the $80. I forgot to ad that I can climb a 6% grade that is five miles long at 70 mph at 3200 rpms and still have enough pedal left to get up to 80 mph to pass, so I would guess that is good torque.

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I agree that's not a bad price - but remember you are going to *most likely* be buying a jetting kit, the manifold adaptor, and quite a bit of your time to install and tune such a beast. With basically no help from the board - there's plenty of us that have experience with the DGV, but because of the unkowns that I menioned previously there won't be any good guidelines around here that you can rely on as to jetting sizes, etc. It could take a lot of tinkering.

 

Even at $80 shipped you are looking at another $120 in the manifold adaptor, the jetting kit, and an electric choke module. For $200 you could get everything you need at a junk yard to install SPFI.... about the same number of hours you'll likely spend tinkering with that 5200 to make it run properly. So where do you want to put your money?

 

GD

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http://www.surpluselectron.com/aaron/holley.htm

 

Here's a bit of info I have held onto. I've never had a Weber or Holley on a Subaru, but I had a Holley 5200 on an Isuzu P'up once. It did OK, used all the Weber parts so getting them wasn't hard. The Holley 5200 is a mirror image, in the sense that the shafts rotate in the other direction. Only a problem when mounting the carb. The cablse will pull from the opposite direction, or you could flip, or turn the carb around to match the cable. I did that on the Isuzu and had no problems. Also use a fuel pressure regulator set to 1.5 psi.

 

http://www.mazdatruckin.com/B2200/5200.html

 

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product.asp?productid=149

 

http://www.subarubrat.com/Retrofitting%20the%20Weber%20DGAV%2032.htm

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21562&highlight=jets

 

http://www.racetep.com/webercarbjet.html

 

http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/weboem.html

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Since mine had a weber that went bad I allready had the adapter kit. As for the jetting I must have got lucky because with about 1/2 hour of air mixture screw adjusting and disty adjusting mine has ran fine on three different engines. Now that I have a 58k engine it runs way smoother then it ever has with a hicrappy. I did reverse the carb so the linkage worked right. As for the choke I put a $15 manual choke on it. I also use my stock fuel pump with no regulator and no return line. As GD said if you can afford the spfi swap thats the route to go. Heck at that price $80 I'm going to order a back up carb.

 

I also put one on someone Else's sube and had the same results.:burnout:

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General Disorder is correct.

 

One problem the Holley and its twin, 32/36 DFAV have is that the throttle shaft will wear the body of the carburetor. The DGV series does this as well, but we have a repair kit now. A roller bearing kit that fits in the gap around the shaft. A very cool fix and improvement. The DFAV/Holley do not have the gap around the shaft for the bearing.

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