davebugs Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 The manual specifies type - F. I can post the scan. Genuine Subaru Type-HP or IDEMITSU ATF HP Castrol Transmax J Pennzoil ATF-J Can't find any of these and don't really want to pay dealer price on Suby fluid. I'm planning on buying a case to do the GF's 2006 Impreza with 50k on it. Tranny hasn't been serviced yet. It gets it's first set of laser platinum replacement plugs tomorrow. The car is running(and shifting) fine. I'm just trying to take care of it for her. If something goes wrong (basically ever) it could effect lets call it 'the romance factor' All other maintenance has been done by me. I plan on checking the brakes tomorrow as well. Thoughts on acceptable tranny fluid? Advance doesn't stock the Pennzoil J or the Castrol Transmax J. I'm looking at Wolf's head universal fluid. Generally I like to stay away from 'universal' things - fluids included. I believe my local Subaru dealer uses ATF+4 as their bulk supply (they also sell Mopar's). She drives 100 miles per day round trip to work. Really piles on the miles. I did quite a bit of searching and no this IS NOT the 5EAT. Any Subaru tech's or guru's have a comment/suggestion? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 I know that the Chrysler "+" fluid is Dexron PLUS a slippery additive to reduce the friction in the plates of their electronic shift trans. (My caravan uses ATF+3) Without it the clutch plates don't "release" and will burn up after some time I don't know about Subs and how they would or wouldn't like it - IF you know of a friendly Auto Trans shop, ask them. OR get on the "customer question" list for an ATF manufacturer and ASK THEM. They wouldn't have anything to gain by steering you to the "wrong" fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 My guess in that soob is that you'd be fine with an ATF that meets the specs formerly known as dexron III. Subaru has said the Idemitsu ATF can be used in earlier soos calling for dexron III, and GM is not renewing licenses for dexron III blenders anymore. The Idemtisu HP ATF is needed for the 5EAT's, and since GM isn't renewing dexron licenses for the other soob autos now as well. There was some fluid someone found at wally world that seeme dot meet th especs and work. Otherwise you pretty much need to use the Subaru Idemistu fluid from a dealer, which is about $6-7/qt online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulwnkl Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 The manual specifies type - F. I can post the scan. Genuine Subaru Type-HP or IDEMITSU ATF HP Castrol Transmax J Pennzoil ATF-J I don't think I understand. Does the manual specify Type F or the other stuff? OK, that's kind of rhetorical because I'm not aware of Subaru ever specifying the old Type F fluid (at least in the past couple decades?). If yours really does, though, then only use Type F. For the other stuff, one of the "universal" ATFs on the shelf will work extremely well. Most of the 'new' ATF specifications are essentially the same stuff, and very similar to the ATF +4 that Mopar requires. So, you could use that, too, if you want. The differences between these 'new' specs and ATF +4 are very small indeed. The worst that would happen is that shift feel would be slightly different, but frankly shift feel will likely change just from the new fluid. The computer will shortly adjust shifting to compensate. You're not going to have any wear issues between the OEM fluid, the ATF +4, and the universal fluids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Here's the scan from the owners manual. I use a lot of Wolf's Head products. They used to be the best in my opinion. It's what all the local drillers used to use on their own equipment - and I figure they know oil/lubes. I've used it for years with no issues. They have been sold several times in the past several years. Their website is wolfshead.com. Their info@wolfshead.com email doesn't work and hasn't in some time. If you call you really only getting marketing folks. Subaru is listed on their Universal Synthetic ATF - but just as Subaru - no specific years/tranny's, etc. I'm trying to attach a PDF of the owners manual. Since I can't source the real stuff other than at the dealer (waiting a little here this morning to try pep-boys an dmore local chains) I may try the Wolfs Head Universal. Anyone know if the Suby fluid is Synthetic? Thanks for the input folks. Dave cindy 2006 Impreza tranny fluid.PDF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulwnkl Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Most of the new ATFs (including the Universals) are at least partially 'synthetic.' I use the quasi-quote there because the term synthetic is a marketing one these days and does not particularly tell you about the quality of the finished fluid. In any event, you can use about any of the universal fluids, including the Wolf's Head one, with confidence. Your transmission will last just as well on those as on Subaru's branded fluid. As I said before, you may experience a slight difference in shift feel after changing the fluid. Depending upon your present fluid condition, the change itself may be what's responsible for the shift feel difference, and the computer should adjust to the new fluid pretty quickly. If it doesn't become 'normal,' you can always try a different fluid. Still, no harm is being done with the slightly different initial feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 TYPE F??? The scan DOESN'T SAY TYPE F. If anything it's "J" NOTHING uses TYPE F except for old stuff (and power steering) You use it in your car , you KILL THE TRANS :-\ Type F stopped being used "new" in about 72 or so (don't remember exactly, but it's been quite a while) I don't think it was used at Ford when I was there (and that was '75) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Yea - Type J. I was on the phone having Wal-Mart check after striking out at Advance, Autozone, Pep-boys, and 2 local chains. The kid came back and siad type J and ATF+4, mercron/dexron 3 & 4 was all they had. I accidentally typed type J. Just did it. almost 52k. Dark and bad smelling. First fill 4 wts, second 3 qts, final about 3.5 it appears. I may actually do it again in 1k when the next oil change is due. Now I gotta go research brake pads. Original pads all the way around. Rotors don't look too bad at all. I may actually (for the first time ever) not do anything with the rotors or have them cut. 50 yo lady driver. Don't need anything performance or pricey. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I've been told by my parts guy that the new pads don't need fresh cut rotors anymore. They work just as well on used rotors. I haven't had rotors cut in a long time. They're so cheap now if they need cutting I just replace em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 I've been told by my parts guy that the new pads don't need fresh cut rotors anymore. They work just as well on used rotors. I haven't had rotors cut in a long time. They're so cheap now if they need cutting I just replace em. Thanks for the info. Only place open was Advance - Brembo rotors 81.94 front, rear N/A. On the rare occasion that I get rotors cut they are 7.50. Thinking of Bendix, or Wagner, or Contiseal pads. About to start searching about pads now. In the past I have never installed pads without having the rotors/drums cut or replaced. Then again the pads are half the price of one rotor, that along with your comment makes it look like pads only. Then I'll see what happens. When I get them off if they look rougher than they did at a quick glance I'll see if they can cut them and still be legal. Thanks again, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 If you do semi-mets and the rotor surface isn't scored, you can get by with just a rough up with emery paper. 10 or 20 hard stops to heat up the new pads is enough to wear them in to the old rotors. What would be "bad" would be a wear ridge around the outside edge of the rotor. THAT, you should turn the rotors to get rid of it (it will make contact with the pad and give it a really bad loading - maybe even fracture the pad surface.) of course, you COULD just dress that ridge down with a small grinder if you are pressed for $$ or time (and have the grinder) True, a "full brake job" is better, but depending, you can get by with "less" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 Got a new grinder/cutoff tool today. One of the few tools that I had to borrow occasionally. In the past for rust I've just used the scotch brite small disks on an air drill but they don't really remove solid material. Don't know if I'm skilled enough with a grinder for delicate work like dressing a rotor. I like the idea - just don't know if I could pull that off. Next time I get to work on the car guess I'll find out how this unfolds. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Then again the pads are half the price of one rotor, that along with your comment makes it look like pads only. Then I'll see what happens. Either your getting shafted on rotors or your getting pads REAL cheap. I haven't paid over $20.00 per rotor new (not oem) for a roo yet. The pads are usually about $30.00. New rotors for my 97 OB $15.00 per side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 uh-uh-uh -NO! - not dressing the rotor - just if you have to remove a ridge on the end '=!!=' <- if the = is the rotor, the !! is the hub end and that ' is the ridge where the pads wore down into the rotor and left that little ridge around the end (you will have it on both sides of the rotor - can't do ' upside down that on a "typewriter" - and it will likely only be 1/2mm wide and whatever depth the pads wore the rotors down to.) just grind the very edge of the rotor at a 45 degree angle until the ridge goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 uh-uh-uh -NO! - not dressing the rotor - just if you have to remove a ridge on the end '=!!=' <- if the = is the rotor, the !! is the hub end and that ' is the ridge where the pads wore down into the rotor and left that little ridge around the end (you will have it on both sides of the rotor - can't do ' upside down that on a "typewriter" - and it will likely only be 1/2mm wide and whatever depth the pads wore the rotors down to.) just grind the very edge of the rotor at a 45 degree angle until the ridge goes away. At $15.00 a copy if they need anything I just replace em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aircraft engineer Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 yeah - I have the same attitude. Rotors have gotten cheap enough that they are just as easily replaced (of course, I turn the ones I replace for "next time" and then only replace every third change (which comes all too often) Replace for 20 or turn for 10 - do both and have a set for "next time" (of course, my garage is starting to look like a parts store... but...) I just wish I could find an "old" turning machine or had a metal lathe... NO NO NO DOWN BOY... you have enough toys... bad mechanic...bad engineer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 My cheap rotor place closed at 2pm today. I've had pretty good luck with their 'Quality brand' rotors. Had one bad out of the box one time - other than that they've been fine. Brembo is what Advance was quoting. I just had them on my VW and they didn't hold up as well as I expected. Then again the Mintex pads seperated from the backing on the rears and made a mess of the rotors. FYI no Advance Gold pads listed for the 2006 Impreza. Only problem with working on new cars is that stuff isn't stocked yet like the rotors. Most folks seem to have the pads in stock. I just had the same issue with a 2003 Acura. Back to reading about Motive pressure bleeders and pads. Thanks folks. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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